BMW Common Engine/Vanos Error Codes / Fault Codes List 27A0-27FF [E46, E39 etc.]

2711-273F, 2740-2772, 2773-279F, 27A0-27FF, 280A-29FF, 2A01-2CFF, 2D00-2FB7, CD87-CDAC,

27A0 Controll E-box fan
27A1 failure within secondary air system 2
27A2 Temp.sensor engine LR
27A3 CAN timeout HDEV2 SG
27A4 EWS3.3 Schnittstelle EWS-DME
27A6 Ansteuerung Einspritzventil 1
27A7 Ansteuerung Einspritzventil 3
27A8 Ansteuerung Einspritzventil 4
27A9 Ansteuerung Einspritzventil 2
27AA Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27AB Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27AC Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27AD Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27AE Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27AF Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27B0 Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27B1 Ansteuerung Einspritzventil
27B3 Diagnose DK/HFM adjustment
27B4 Ambient-pressure sensor
27B5 Control inlet-VANOS
27B6 Control inlet-VANOS bank2
27B7 Controll gas pump relay
27B8 Plausibility diff. pressure sensor
27B9 BLS/BTS Plausibility
27BA Output AC-kompr. enable from AC-SG
27BB Camshaft control outlet-VANOS
27BC Camshaft control outlet-VANOS bank2
27BD Control outlet-VANOS
27BE Output outlet-VANOS bank2
27BF Camshaft sensor inlet bank2
27C0 Camshaft sensor outlet bank2
27C1 Master camshaft sensor
27C2 Controll AC-compressor relay
27C3 Signal oil level sensor (TOENS)
27C6 LDP Diagnose 0.5mm leak
27C7 LDP Diagnose 1.0mm leak
27C8 LDP system
27C9 Leak diag. module
27CA Ansteuerung DM-TL Pumpenmotor
27CB DM-TL 0.5mm leak MIL off
27CC DM-TL 1mm & 0.5mm leak
27CD DM-TL module
27CE Load sensor monitoring
27CF Ignition time Cyl.1
27D0 Ignition time Cyl.3
27D1 Ignition time Cyl.4
27D2 Ignition time Cyl.2
27D5 failure within the idle-speed control
27D6 Output idle-speed controller OFF
27D7 Output idle-speed controller ON
27D8 Failure depressure pump
27D9 Output DM-TL heater
27DA generator failure
27DC EWS3.3 Random-code storing
27E1 monitoring pedal-travel sensor
27E2 Knock sensor 1
27E3 knock sensor2 bank1
27E4 Knock sensor 3
27E5 Knock sensor 4
27E6 Knock sensor zero test
27E7 Knock sensor offset
27E8 Knock regulation Test impulse
27E9 Knock sensor zero test bank2
27EA CAN-Timeout HDEV
27EB CAN-Timeout TCU
27EC CAN-Timeout EGS
27ED CAN-Timeout ASC/DSC
27EE CAN-Timeout Instrumentenkombination
27EF CAN ACC-Signalfehler
27F0 Plausibility MSR-control
27F1 Plausibility ACC-control
27F2 Plausibility gas level
27F3 CAN-Timeout VVT-Control unit
27F4 CAN-Timeout VVT-Control-unit bank2
27F5 CAN-Timeout DME-Control unit
27F6 Pedal-travel
27F7 Pedal-travel Poti1
27F8 Pedal-travel Poti2
27F9 Start automatic control
27FA Input starter automatic
27FB Output controlled airflow
27FD Starter automatic
27FE Knock control offset bank2
27FF Knock control test signal bank2

E60: Engine Rebuild 3 - Camshafts + Re-Timing - ghetto style...

When it came to re-timing the engine I realised that the crank could still no longer be turned by hand in order to get the engine to TDC [top-dead-centre], so the cams would need resetting to the same position they were in when the chain was removed. Rather than begin lengthy calculations based on piston-height in the block, I just copied the camshaft positions from the photos I took when taking the engine apart. Naturally I'd rather get the engine to TDC and have a proper look at the cam positions, but for now it's running great and I couldn't say timing was too far out or it wouldn't even start.

You do not need any gazillion £ special tools for this and, provided you've only had the head off and not removed the chain completely, then the lower tensioner will keep the chain in place on the bottom cog-wheel and there is no need to remove the radiator / belt / pulleys etc.

You will need:

• T30 Torx socket.
• T50 Torx socket.
• E14 double-hex socket.
• Accurate smaller torque-wrench.
• Mole grips / vise-grips.
• Large adjustable-spanner.

1. Drop the valve-guides and rockers into the head. It's best they go back into the same ports as they were removed from, even if it's a different head.

2. Oil the camshaft-bearings and drop in the camshafts, E = inlet, A = Auspuff / exhaust [not E for exhaust!].

3. Oil the cap-caps and drop them on in the correct positions numbered 1-7 from front to back.

4. Screw the camshaft-bolts down so there is no play in the caps, but not tight, then tighten them to the correct torque in half-turns only from the middle outwards. Torque is 10nm for M6, 15nm for M7 and 20nm for M8. Most if not all 03-09 330d / 530d etc. should have M7 bolts installed.

5. Use a large adjustable spanner to rotate the exhaust camshaft [A] to the correct position, using the section near the front where the shaft is cut into a hex shape, and apply mole grips to the camshaft so that they are lying flat to the head at the correct cam position, holding the shaft in position.

6. Install the exhaust-camshaft gearwheel, along with the vac-pump sprocket and do up to the correct torque of 30nm and 50 degrees. Try to get the sprocket into as close a position as possible to where the vac-pump was when it was removed.

7. Using the large adjustable-spanner, rotate the inlet-camshaft [E] into the desired position and either get someone to hold it in place for a minute, or apply a second set of mole-grips.

8. Refit the tensioning-rail into the chain. [The left-hand one looking from front.]

9. Roll the chain back onto the top cog-wheel and refit the inlet-gearwheel / cog-wheel / chain to the inlet-camshaft, tightening it to the correct torque of 30nm and 50 degrees. The exhaust-camshaft should now be holding the inlet camshaft in position.

10. Refit the guide-rail to the chain. [Right-hand one looking from front.]

11. Remove the pin holding the chain-tensioner [from this guide] and refit the plug.

12. Release the mole-grips holding the camshafts and you are ready to go!

E46: Brakes + oil leak sorted - still running rough!

Wednesday 16/7/14:

Replaced vacuum-pump.

Replaced both camshaft-sensors.

Replaced MAF sensor.

Well, I'm certainly glad to report that the oil gushing onto the exhaust / cat has stopped with the replacement of the blown up vac-pump and I now have good pedal feel and stoppage. Sadly, even the return of some vacuum isn't enough to cure the low-idle and rough running. I replaced the obvious things, both cam sensors and the mass-airflow meter, but this hasn't sorted it either. I'm guessing there is either a severe vacuum / vent problem, or it's going to be to g related... Oh joy!

The diagnosis will go as follows:

Remove and fully check out inlet manifold.
Thoroughly check all CCV lines and the valve.
Clean and check all electrical connections.
Test for compression.
Move on to timing.

Other jobs:

Adjust handbrake and refit discs.

Fibreglass fill n/s/r wheel arch.

Check squeaky ABS sensor.