PIN: | WIRE SIZE: | WIRE COLOR: | APPLICATION: |
1 | 1.5 | Brown | Ground Distribution G101 |
4 | 0.5 | Brown / Violet | Gauges / Warning Indicators, |
Coolant Temperature Sender | |||
5 | 0.5 | White / Green | Fuel Control, |
Injector Control Module (Fuel Rate) | |||
7 | 0.5 | White / Blue | Service Indicator, |
Service Interval Processor (Reset) | |||
11 | 2.5 | Black / Yellow | Start, Start Signal |
12 | 0.75 | Blue | Charge System, Alternator, |
13 | 0.75 | Black | Ignition, Ignition Coil |
14 | 2.5 | Red | Charge System, Alternator |
15 | 1.5 | Green / Yellow | Idle Speed Control, |
Idle Speed Control Unit |
Friday 17 December 2021
BMW E30 / E28 Diagnostic Plug / Socket Pin Out Diagram
BMW E30 Fuse Box Layout + Diagram
FUSE NO: | RATING: | APPLICATION: |
1 | 7.5A | Headlights (also 2, 13, 16) |
2 | 7.5A | Headlights (also 1, 13, 16) |
3 | 15A | Auxiliary Fan (also 18) |
4 | 15A | Lights: Turn/Hazard (also 24) |
5 | 25A | Wiper / Washer |
6 | 7.5A | Stoplights |
7 | 15A | Horn |
8 | 25A | Lights: Dash, Rear Defogger, |
Seatbelt Warning (also 10), | ||
Speedometer / Indicators (also 12) | ||
9 | 15A | Idle Speed Control / Vacuum Advance, |
Reverse Lights | ||
10 | 7.5A | Seatbelt Warning (also 8), |
Service Indicator (also 24), | ||
Tachometer / Fuel Economy Gauge (also 24), | ||
Gauges / Indicators, Brake Warning system, | ||
11 | 15A | Fuel Delivery |
12 | 7.5A | Radio (also 21), |
Speedometer / Indicators (also 8) | ||
13 | 7.5A | Headlights (also 1, 2, 14) |
14 | 7.5A | Headlights (also 1, 2, 13) |
15 | - | Not used |
16 | - | Not used |
17 | 15A | Accessory Connector |
18 | 30A | Auxiliary Fan (also 3, 19) |
19 | 7.5A | Auxiliary Fan (also 3, 18), |
Interior Lights (also 21, 22, 27), | ||
Power Mirrors | ||
20 | 30A | Heater / Air Conditioning (also 28) |
21 | 7.5A | Auto-Charging Flashlight, Digital Clock, |
Glove Box Light, Ignition Key Warning, | ||
Interior Lights (also 14, 22, 27), | ||
Radio (also 12), Trunk Light | ||
22 | 7.5A | Interior Lights (also 19, 21, 27), |
Lights: Front Park/Tail, | ||
Front Side Marker | ||
23 | 7.5A | Lights: Dash, Front Park/Tail, |
Front Side Marker, | ||
Rear Marker / License Plate | ||
24 | 15A | Lights: Turn/Hazard Warning (also 4), |
Tachometer / Fuel Economy Gauges (also 10), | ||
Service Indicator (also 10) | ||
25 | 25A | Not used |
26 | 25A | Not used |
27 | 25A | Interior Lights (also 19, 21, 22), |
Central Locking | ||
28 | 25A | Cigar Lighter, Power Antenna |
29 | 7.5A | Fog Lights |
30 | 7.5A | Fog Lights |
Wednesday 15 December 2021
BMW 2002 Turbo - Sales Brochure + Technical Specifications Booklet [PDF 8.6MB]
Thursday 9 December 2021
E30 Speedometer Schematic / Wiring Diagram / Pinouts
** For E30 speedometer / odometer troubleshooting and repair guide see THIS POST. **
The arrangement is the same with both VDO and Motometer type gauges.
Pins are:
R - 12v +
31 - Ground
31b - Speed sensor INPUT Pin 1
A - Speed sensor Pin 2 *NOT USED*
Bench testing can be achieved by powering the unit with 12v and simulating the pulse of the speed sensor over the two remaining pins, either way around. This is essentially done by creating a pulse across the circuit of pin A and A1. You can do this by just bridging the two pins together with a piece of wire and touching the wire against one of the pins on and off to make the ‘pulse’, as this is basically how the speed sensor works, but simulate any kind of actual road speed you will need to be doing the on/off pretty quickly. A far better way to bench test is to use some kind of ‘pulse-generator’, such as an oscilloscope or something set up using an Arduino, which is what I used to create a pulse with 5 volts. I will post a guide soon.
E30: Rebuilt and refitted instrument binnacle w/ new speedo/odo + more
- Replaced speedometer / odometer.
- Replaced back-light bulbs.
- Checked and tested Si batteries.
- Tightened brass-nut on temperature-gauge.
- Bench-tested.
Sunday 24 October 2021
E30/E28: Faulty AFM (Air Flow Meter) repairs, worn carbon-track quick fix
** FOR ADJUSTING AFM AIR/FUEL RATIO SEE THIS POST **
The AFM or Air Flow Meter uses a metal flap that is opened air entering the engine to move a brass arm up and down a carbon-track. The position of the arm along the carbon track alters the electrical resistance through the circuit and this lets the ECU know how much air is coming in, so it can deliver the right amount of fuel to the injectors. The E30 uses a BOSCH AFM unit, also used in many other BMWs with Motronic or Jetronic injection systems.
The analog electrics in the BOSCH AFMs rarely ever fail, but there are two areas that are failure prone after higher mileage - a worn carbon track and a faulty air-temperature sensor.
Saturday 23 October 2021
E46 318i Touring: New front drop-link for MOT
The 318i Touring was up for MOT this week and failed only on the O/S front anti roll-bar link. Normally I would replace these as a pair, which would have been more cost effective as you can get a set of two from eBay for under £15. Time was an issue and I wanted to get it back for a re-test so had to buy one from Euro Car Parts for the same price, around £15. Annoyingly, the eBay pair were Lemforder and the single piece from ECP is Starline, but needs must.
The car has only just passed 104k miles, so this could well have been the original anti-roll bar linkage and boy was it seized on. I only got a couple of turns on the top nut before the 5mm Allen-key in the stud stripped and rounded, so had to cut the rubber boot off to get a 17mm spanner on to the flats at the back. Even so, progress was painstakingly slow. Couldn’t even get a grinder in there as things are surprisingly tightly packed on E46. This made an otherwise quick and easy job last a bit longer, but it is nearly 20 years old.
Tuesday 5 October 2021
E30/E28: Adjusting AFM (Air-Flow Meter) - change air/fuel rich/lean mixture
** ADJUST YOUR AFM SETTINGS AT YOUR OWN RISK **
This is for BOSCH AFM units, fitted to most E30 and other BMWs fitted with Bosch Motronic or Jetronic injection systems.
The AFM, or Air Flow Meter, is a metal flap that is drawn open by air entering the engine and the position of the flap tells the ECU how much air is coming in so it can inject the right amount of fuel. The stock parameters for the AFM are set at the factory and unique to each car and BMW recommend that these settings should NEVER be adjusted... so do it at your own risk!!
Why would the AFM need adjusting??
- You have done a ‘gas-test’ and the results show your car is running rich (too much fuel for amount of air) or lean (too much air for the fuel being supplied) and wish to adjust for emissions / fine-tuning purposes.
- You have an air leak after the AFM, so more air is getting in than the ECU is supplying fuel for and the engine won’t run, especially when cold.
- You have an over-fuelling problem where too much fuel is being supplied for the amount of air and flooding the engine.
Adjusting the AFM in the second two instances is a quick and dirty way to get your car running well enough to drive it, but is not a long-term fix for an underlying problem, so bear this in mind before messing with the AFM.
Wednesday 29 September 2021
BMW E21 323i Baur wins HERO-ERA Summer Trial
I've been interested in HERO (The Historic Endurance Rallying Organisation) since owning my red E21 and had intended to enter that car in one of the smaller events, as they host a few throughout the year. The big one is the Summer Trial in June and it was nice to see another E21 taking first place this year. A Baur cabriolet no less. Better late than never to throw up a pic of Angus McQueen and Mike Cochrane's HERO winning 323i...
Pic: Classic & Sports Car Magazine, Aug 2021 |
HERO EVENTS & ERA EVENTS - The Original Classic Rally - https://www.hero-era.com
Sunday 26 September 2021
E30 318i: Replacement Speedometer/ Odometer
Showing the healthy resistor on the newer speedo on the left and the burnt out one to the right. |
E30 318i: Speedometer / Odometer faults + check list
Wednesday 15 September 2021
E30 318i: Replaced AFM (Air-Flow Meter)
Sunday 5 September 2021
E46 318i Touring: Replacing leaky Oil Cooler gasket [N42]
Monday 30 August 2021
E46 318i Touring: Handbrake / parking-brake repair + adjustment
The slot that the stud locks in to is part of the backing plate for the disc and it had bent outward and rounded off over time, no longer giving enough metal for the stud to hold on to. I managed to build the slot back up using a cole-chisel and there is just about enough metal left to hold the stud firmly. If it happens again in the near future then a new backing plate may be required, but this is a hub off job and a whole load more work, so lets hope it doesn't.
BMW E30 - LED instrument lights flicker with rheostat switch
Work fine wired straight to power, but flicker and come on and off when run through the dimmable rheostat switch. Switching back to 5w bulbs may be the only cure.
Sunday 29 August 2021
E30 318i M40b18: High / erratic idle issues NOW FIXED, stable at 800rpm + good throttle-response finally
After my cutting out when cold problem and no low-end throttle response from a busted lower inlet-manifold gasket (THIS POST) and high / pulsing idle issue from a poorly set throttle-stop screw (THIS POST), I have finally got the old E30 ticking over properly. It now sits at about 800rpm on idle and throttle response is smooth across the range. Pleasant.
Wednesday 28 July 2021
E30 318i: Leaking clutch slave-cylinder... fluid low
Now the E30 is running well I took it out for a test run and noticed that all of a sudden the gears were grinding a little bit. Checked the fluid reservoir and the level had dropped to about 10mm, not good. Looked under the car and saw a spot of fluid on the drive right under the slave-cylinder. My guess, and no prizes for guessing right here, it was a leaking slave-cylinder and, hey presto... sure looks like one to me.
Replacement is ordered. I went for a cheap and cheerful one off eBay for just £16.50, though £25-40 seems to be the going rate. Be fitting this when I have chance. Looking forward to the bodywork, but mechanical jobs just keep popping up... that be old BMWs!
Monday 26 July 2021
E30 M40 316i / 318i: Adjusting Throttle-Body and Idle Stop-Screw
Yes, this is set at the factory and they say it should never be messed with, but as the youngest M40 engined BMWs are approaching 30 years old now, chances are the stop-screw and throttle-plate will have been adjusted at some point in its life.
Here I will explain what happens when it is adjusted, the problems it may cause if it has been and how to reset it back to stock.
WHY HAS IT BEEN ADJUSTED?
The stop-screw should have a paint mark on it from the factory to show if it has been messed with, but after so many years the mark may no longer be visible. If you feel yours has been adjusted in the past, the main reason this has been done is likely to falsely raise a low idle caused by another issue, say an induction air leak. If an over lean mixture is causing a low idle, the tendency is to tweak the idle stop-screw to get the car to tick over at higher revs and stop the engine stalling out or running lumpy. This is a great short-term workaround, but will cause other issues with the AFM / DME and fuel delivery further down the line, particularly when the underlying issue is worked out.
SYMPTOMS:
The issues you will get with a poorly adjusted throttle stop-screw are:
High idle.
Hunting / pulsing revs.
Poor or no low-end throttle response.
Erratic idle (if throttle position switch TPS is not engaged).
Bogging at high revs (where wide-open throttle WOT switch is not engaged).
ADJUSTING:
There is only one way the throttle can be adjusted, via the stop-screw, though the throttle-cable itself can be adjusted to change throttle response somewhat, mainly with how the pedal / cable reacts to driver input and will not affect the fuel/air ratio and the engine idle.
** The intended job of the idle stop-screw is simply to stop the throttle-plate from jamming in the throttle-body and being difficult to open when the pedal is pressed and not to change the car’s idle characteristics. BMW recommend that this is never played with, so do so at your own risk. **
1. Back off the lock-but using an 8mm wrench.
2. Use a small flat screwdriver to wind the idle stop-screw in and out.
* Clockwise will push the throttle-linkage further from its rest position, holding the throttle-plate open slightly and allowing more air to bypass it while the pedal is not pressed.
*Anti-clockwise will allow the throttle-linkage to close further and will reduce bypass air and choke the engine while the pedal is not pressed.
STOCK SETTING:
You will need a set of A/F / imperial feeler-gauges as this is how the stock throttle-plate aperture is measured.
** If you are only adjusting the throttle-plate and do not need to adjust the throttle position switch (TPS) then the throttle-body itself does not need removing and you can skip to step 7.**
Removing the Trottle-Body:
1. Remove the main air-inlet hose from the AFM to the throttle-body by loosening the jubilee-clip and easing it off.
2. Unclip the throttle-cable from the throttle-linkage and remove the two screws holding the throttle-cable mount from the top of the throttle-body housing using a 10mm wrench. Move the cable assembly to one side.
3. Remove the two water hoses and air vacuum-hose from either side of the throttle-body by undoing the jubilee clips and teasing the hoses off with a screwdriver.
4. Remove the six nuts from the upper inlet-manifold using an 11mm wrench and the two locating screws from the manifold using a 10mm wrench. Lift the upper inlet-manifold so that the throttle body can be fully accessed.
5. Remove the throttle-body from the inlet manifold by undoing the four nuts using a 10mm wrench.
6. Turn the throttle-body upside down and remove the throttle-position-switch (TPS) by removing the wiring connecter and undoing the two cross head screws.7. Back off the lock-nut of the stop-screw using an 8mm wrench.
8. Use a small flat screwdriver to adjust the throttle stop-screw by the notch in the end of it. Obviously, clockwise will move the screw further out and make the throttle-butterfly rest in a more open position. Anticlockwise will allow the butterfly to close more.
9. For the OEM setting, the throttle-butterfly should be 0.377” from the housing, so use your feeler-gauge between the side of the tube and either side of the butterfly until you find a happy medium.
10. Tighten the lock-nut up again with an 8mm wrench.
11. Now take the throttle-position switch (TPS) and locate it back in the housing so that the switch is depressed while the throttle is in the fully closed position. With the two screws loosened, the TPS can be swivelled left and right as in pic below to adjust the point at which it engages. The ideal placement for the switch is to have it click closed while the throttle is open about 1mm. (You will hear the quiet click from the TPS as it opens and closes.) When you’re happy with the TPS placement tighten the screws to lock it in place.
12. Before refitting the throttle-body, check the operation of the butterfly and TPS and make sure the butterfly is not binding to the body while fully closed as this will ruin low-end throttle response.13. Refitting is a reversal of steps 5-1.
Wednesday 9 June 2021
E30 318i M40: GUIDE - Replacing lower inlet-manifold gasket - rough idle and stalling fixed!
The engine just about ticked over when warm, albeit with a slight misfire. On cold startups however, the misfire was a lot more severe and at low revs the engine just couldn’t hold on, stalling out due to a way over-lean mixture. It would drive though, but there was no throttle response until about halfway up the rev range and power would arrive with a bang. It is amazing how sensitive these older engines with analog electronics are to unmetered air leaks!
IF YOU HAVE THESE SYMPTOMS, CHECK HERE!
I ordered a new gasket from eBay, it was a snip at £6.88. Be careful when ordering, older M10 engine gaskets are far more plentiful, so ensure yours is the right one for the M40... they have a funny shape which is quite distinctive. Choice was limited, in fact I could find one more gasket for sale of the right type and that came with a full £30 set including a head gasket, so be sure to check out carpartsinmotion, they have rare-fit stuff.
GUIDE:
1. Undo the jubilee-clip and disconnect the large rubber duct from the throttle-body using a flat screwdriver or 7mm socket.
2. Unclip the throttle-cable from the throttle-linkage and remove the two 10mm screws holding the metal plate to the throttle-body so the cable assembly can be moved clear.
3. Remove the wiring connectors from the throttle position sensor [TPS] and idle control valve [ICV].
4. Remove the rubber hose from the bottom of the ICV.
5. Remove the vacuum air hose from the front side of the throttle-body by undoing the jubilee-clip and teasing it off carefully with a flat screwdriver.
6. Remove the two coolant hoses from either side of the throttle-body by undoing the jubilee clips and teasing them off with a flat screwdriver.
7. Remove the six nuts from the upper inlet-manifold using an 11mm wrench [9 in diagram] and two locating studs in the centre with a 10mm wrench [13 in diagram].
8. The upper inlet-manifold can now be lifted out of the engine bay.
9. Remove the wiring connector from the fuel-rail / injectors.
10. Remove the metal fuel send and return pipes from each end of the fuel-rail by undoing the jubilee clips. (This is where it gets messy, you may wish to plug or clamp the ends of these hoses). The send pipe is attached to the fuel pressure regulator [FPR] at the front of the fuel-rail and the return pipe is at the back of the rail.11. Remove the five nuts holding the ports of the lower inlet-manifold to the head using an 11mm socket [4 in diagram].
12. Remove the two bracing bolts from the lower inlet-manifold using a 13mm socket. (They point towards the right side of the car) [11 in diagram].
13. The lower inlet manifold is now free to be removed. This can be a bit tricky as the rigid fuel pipes are routed through one of the gaps in the manifold ports. Also make a note of how the hoses to the throttle-body are routed through around the lower manifold, as it can be confusing once the upper manifold is bolted back in.
14. Clean off the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the inlet manifold.
15. Carefully fit the new gasket to the studs on the head. It only fits one way round.
16. To refit reverse the above steps.