Work fine wired straight to power, but flicker and come on and off when run through the dimmable rheostat switch. Switching back to 5w bulbs may be the only cure.
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Showing posts with label lamp. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lamp. Show all posts
Monday, 30 August 2021
Monday, 23 November 2020
F10/F11/G07: Front Fog-Lamp / Spot-Lamp Fault fix... the bulb or not the bulb?
If you get 'Front Foglight Failure' coming up then it's likely a bulb has blown, but I believe it is a common problem on the F10 showing this error but both front fog lamps are still working, or a light not working but the bulb is not blown. It should be an easy fix.
REPLACING THE BULB / CHECKING FAULT:
1. Using an 8mm hex-socket remove four of the screws holding the front side of the corresponding wheel-arch liner - two from the bottom edge and the other two that run up the outer edge of the wheel-arch. This should be enough to peel the arch-liner back and see the back of the fog-light.
2. Remove the wiring-connector by pressing the clip and sliding it upwards.
3. Remove the bulb-holder in the back of the fog-lamp by giving it a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and it should pull out easily.
If the bulb is blown then it can be removed from the plastic holder and replaced.
IF IT'S NOT THE BULB:
The worst case scenario is a fault with the lighting module or wiring to it, see this post - https://www.beemerlab.org/2019/04/f10-halogen-headlight-module-issues.html, but it is far more likely to just be a loose wiring-connector behind the bumper.
Firstly, the wiring-connector to the fog-lamp itself connects from above, so it is possible moisture can fid its way in and corrode the terminals, which can be easily cleaned up with some emery-cloth and a small screwdriver/awl. It is also feasible that road dirt / debris can drop into the plug as it is removed, making it not seat correctly when it is replaced, so rule these out first.
Secondly, there is another wiring connector higher up in the front bumper behind the bottom of the headlight unit. It is hard to spot, as wires seem to run to the fog-lamps from both sides of the car and also link to the headlights, so it will appear as if the wiring to the fogs are intact, when this plug becoming loose or not properly connected will stop the fog-lamp working and throw the error, but not affect the headlights. This can be caused when a headlight has been removed for bulb-replacement or work on the front of the car, so if this work has been done to the car recently then be sure to check this plug.
Monday, 15 April 2019
F10: Halogen Headlight Module Issues - when it's not the bulb... [TMS, FRM]
OK, a lot of F10 owners seem to have various problems with headlights not working properly and it is usually due to one of the light-modules. Gone are there days of simply replacing a bulb and you're away. The F10 has several modules for everything, all linked into the master CAS computer [Car Access System] and, where they may make for accurate diagnosis and a slick system when everything is working as it should do, they sure are a confusing nightmare when something goes wrong!
There are a zillion forum threads out there detailing problems with certain light-modules and the methods used to fix / replace / re-program them, ranging from serious in-depth coding discussion to a 'For Dummies' type guide on where to start when attempting this at home. Still, none of them seem to properly discuss what the modules are, what they do and where to look when you think (or someone tells you!) that they are at fault, so the purpose of this guide is to explain just that. Even when an error-code points at a faulty module (and there are so many light-module related fault-codes that they often do!), it may still just be a break in the wiring or a bad earth, so now you won't be baffled at the complexity of your BMWs lighting network the next time you replace a bulb, check the fuse and you're light still won't turn on.
How the F10 Lighting System works:
Unlike other modern cars, most if not all Fxx Series BMWs have a computer-module housed in each light-unit. These are called TMS modules and their job is to receive on/off commands from the car and regulate power to each bulb in the light-unit. In the headlights they also work as ballast for the halogen / xenon bulbs and control the auto-levelling function. The TMS modules all connect to a larger module known as the FRM, mounted inside the car's dashboard (usually in the driver's footwell), which controls all the various lights in the vehicle. Not just the exterior lights, but every single interior and courtesy light is connected separately to the FRM. All of the switch-gear is connected directly to the FRM module, even the ones mounted next to the map-reading lights that they operate and, when pressed, rely on the FRM to send power back to the bulb. In turn, the FRM reports to the central-CAS that all is OK, or reports a fault and sends up a message on the iDrive. The FRM module is not solid-state electronics either... it runs software. When the FRM receives a command to say, turn on the lower courtesy light in the rear passenger side door, the FRM scans the car for lights matching that code, finds it and sends power accordingly. When lights are swapped out for parts with a different FRM-code then the module won't find what it's looking for and can't turn the light on. This is where FRM coding and programming comes in - amending the light-codes in the module to match those of your new lights.
Troubleshooting:
Obviously the bulb and fuse are OK, so where to look first if the light still won't turn on and the error message is still displayed? Before you get into the serious stuff, check for a physical fault first - this is most likely to be the culprit.
Breaks in Wire - If only one light is affected, say the N/S high-beam and all other lights work fine, then chances are there is a physical problem with the wiring. If modules are failing then noticeable faults should be more sporadic than a single light not turning on. An FRM-xxx fault-code will likely show up along with 'Left High-Beam Failure'. This is because the FRM cannot find the bulb in question or senses a short-circuit, but doesn't mean the FRM itself is faulty. The FRM-module scans constantly and will quickly find the bulb and cancel the error-message once a physical fault has been sorted, so ignore the FRM part of the fault-code and check the wiring first.
Common places where wire-breaks occur are inside the headlight unit itself, particularly where the car has been in a front impact of some sort, and to the right of the driver's (O/S) footwell. All the wiring for the switches and the FRM module dwell here and it is easy to knock them, especially if trim has been removed for other work. The wiring connector plugs can also get knocked and throw up FRM errors, so check all 5 are seated in the module.
TMS Module Failures:
The TMS-module is fitted into the back of each headlight unit with two T20 screws and requires removal of the headlight to remove and replace it. To do this you will need to remove the front bumper, a guide for which is here. The most common cause of TMS failure is moisture getting into the sealed headlight - the circuitry is very sensitive to moisture and this will fry the entire module. A new spurious module can be bought from eBay for as little as £40 - they come with plenty of warranty and lots of happy customers so I would recommend this route. If genuine parts is your thing, then expect to pay ~£350(!) per module from BMW, or used items starting at £50. New modules are self-learning, making them 'plug-and-play' for a straight swap, but if pre-used items have been installed to a slightly different light unit then they may need re-coding to get working right. In my opinion, spurious parts are a winner for solid-state modules and for the price difference who's complaining.
The FRM-module is a silver box located in the driver's-side footwell to the right of the pedals (on a right-hand-drive car.) It only requires removal of the plastic trim under the dash and at the front of the driver's door frame to replace and is held in by two 10mm nuts. Be careful though, wiring harnesses from lights/switch connect to both sides of the module, with the rearward facing ones quite hard to see, so make sure all 5 are fully removed before yanking the module. Spurious lighting modules are hard to find and will come blank, so require a full set of codes to be programmed matching your vehicle for them to work. Used genuine parts are your friend here, with FRM-modules ranging from £60-100 on eBay. All FRM-modules are interchangeable, even different part numbers, but you need to find one with the correct FRM version for your car. With most modern Fxx Series it will be running the FRM-3 software, so check it already this version. If not you can completely re-install the FRM software for your car, but you will need a copy of the software and coding become very involved. If you find a matching part for your car, chances are it had the same lighting array so will operate the lights correctly without coding, but if the car your module came from had a slightly different level of trim, or there had been an update to light configurations, then some lights will have a different code and you will need to check which ones are not functioning properly and amend the code stored in the FRM to suit those units. This is also true if standard lights are being upgraded to M-Sport variants, which will have a different code. Replacing the FRM, or any higher level module on your BMW should be programmed in some way, even if it is just to update the VIN-number stored on it to match your vehicle, so everything works 100% with the CAS and no errors are randomly thrown up in the future, though if you do get lucky and it works with all your lights then there is no reason it won't do so forever.
Coding / Programming the FRM Module:
This is the daunting part for most people experiencing FRM-module problems or upgrading light-units. First of all you will need to be quite computer savvy. It really helps to know your way around Windows as setting up the software and getting it talking to the car will be a very steep learning curve for those who are not handy with their operating system. There is so much to write about BMW coding that I could do a multitude of posts covering it, so I will stick to what is needed for this task, though if you are getting seriously into it then check out the forums on
Apart from an OBD-ENET cable, there is software you will need including INPA, NCS Expert and Progman. These are available in a great package in this post - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/03/bmw-inpa-506-for-fxx-series-enet-cable.html
If you have fitted a new or uprated light unit, then amendments will need to be made to the FRM coding. This isn't too daunting once you have accessed the list of lights stored to the FRM, as all the data is already there and only the code for lights that differ from original need to be altered. If it is a new FRM-module you need to code in, this is about the most difficult lighting related bit of programming and involves coding the car's VIN-number to the new module, then listing the code to every light in your car one by one. Even so, once the FRM has been accessed using NCS Expert successfully, the actual coding part isn't too bad if you have the patience.
The forum threads I found essential are below:
BMWcoders.com - every subtle coding nuance is detailed on there, including lots on FRM.
For most of the tasks involved in repairing / recoding / installing a new FRM module see this guide - Coding in a new FRM Module for Dummies [https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184199]
Another great thread that covers individual light failures in the FRM, resetting short-circuit counters and forcing individual lights to come on is here - Resetting Short Circuit Counters in FRM Module [https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=866044]
A list of FRM Lamp IDs can be found in this post - BMW Fxx Series FRM Lamp ID Codes List
Front Bumper / Headlight Removal Guide
https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/130693-headlights-problem/
There are a zillion forum threads out there detailing problems with certain light-modules and the methods used to fix / replace / re-program them, ranging from serious in-depth coding discussion to a 'For Dummies' type guide on where to start when attempting this at home. Still, none of them seem to properly discuss what the modules are, what they do and where to look when you think (or someone tells you!) that they are at fault, so the purpose of this guide is to explain just that. Even when an error-code points at a faulty module (and there are so many light-module related fault-codes that they often do!), it may still just be a break in the wiring or a bad earth, so now you won't be baffled at the complexity of your BMWs lighting network the next time you replace a bulb, check the fuse and you're light still won't turn on.
How the F10 Lighting System works:
Unlike other modern cars, most if not all Fxx Series BMWs have a computer-module housed in each light-unit. These are called TMS modules and their job is to receive on/off commands from the car and regulate power to each bulb in the light-unit. In the headlights they also work as ballast for the halogen / xenon bulbs and control the auto-levelling function. The TMS modules all connect to a larger module known as the FRM, mounted inside the car's dashboard (usually in the driver's footwell), which controls all the various lights in the vehicle. Not just the exterior lights, but every single interior and courtesy light is connected separately to the FRM. All of the switch-gear is connected directly to the FRM module, even the ones mounted next to the map-reading lights that they operate and, when pressed, rely on the FRM to send power back to the bulb. In turn, the FRM reports to the central-CAS that all is OK, or reports a fault and sends up a message on the iDrive. The FRM module is not solid-state electronics either... it runs software. When the FRM receives a command to say, turn on the lower courtesy light in the rear passenger side door, the FRM scans the car for lights matching that code, finds it and sends power accordingly. When lights are swapped out for parts with a different FRM-code then the module won't find what it's looking for and can't turn the light on. This is where FRM coding and programming comes in - amending the light-codes in the module to match those of your new lights.
Troubleshooting:
Obviously the bulb and fuse are OK, so where to look first if the light still won't turn on and the error message is still displayed? Before you get into the serious stuff, check for a physical fault first - this is most likely to be the culprit.
Breaks in Wire - If only one light is affected, say the N/S high-beam and all other lights work fine, then chances are there is a physical problem with the wiring. If modules are failing then noticeable faults should be more sporadic than a single light not turning on. An FRM-xxx fault-code will likely show up along with 'Left High-Beam Failure'. This is because the FRM cannot find the bulb in question or senses a short-circuit, but doesn't mean the FRM itself is faulty. The FRM-module scans constantly and will quickly find the bulb and cancel the error-message once a physical fault has been sorted, so ignore the FRM part of the fault-code and check the wiring first.
Common places where wire-breaks occur are inside the headlight unit itself, particularly where the car has been in a front impact of some sort, and to the right of the driver's (O/S) footwell. All the wiring for the switches and the FRM module dwell here and it is easy to knock them, especially if trim has been removed for other work. The wiring connector plugs can also get knocked and throw up FRM errors, so check all 5 are seated in the module.
TMS Module Failures:
- Side-light / Angel Eye failure.
- Halogen headlight bulb failure.
- TMS-xxx fault-codes.
FRM Module Failures:
- Random front / rear lighting issues - e.g brake-lights stop working, indictors stop working, all lights work sporadically.
- Front/rear driving-lights only stay on for about 30-seconds then dim and do not come back on.
- Random exterior lights flashing on/off when headlights or ignition operated.
- One or more light related error messages, but lights still work.
- FRM-xxx fault-codes.
Coding / Programming the FRM Module:
Apart from an OBD-ENET cable, there is software you will need including INPA, NCS Expert and Progman. These are available in a great package in this post - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/03/bmw-inpa-506-for-fxx-series-enet-cable.html
The forum threads I found essential are below:
BMWcoders.com - every subtle coding nuance is detailed on there, including lots on FRM.
For most of the tasks involved in repairing / recoding / installing a new FRM module see this guide - Coding in a new FRM Module for Dummies [https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184199]
Another great thread that covers individual light failures in the FRM, resetting short-circuit counters and forcing individual lights to come on is here - Resetting Short Circuit Counters in FRM Module [https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=866044]
A list of FRM Lamp IDs can be found in this post - BMW Fxx Series FRM Lamp ID Codes List
Front Bumper / Headlight Removal Guide
https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/130693-headlights-problem/
Saturday, 13 April 2019
BMW FRM Lamp ID Codes List [Fxx Series, E92]
List of some FRM codes for vehicle lighting, used when coding / reprogramming FRM module. I will add more ID codes / alterations as I find out.
0x00 High Beam, Left or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x01 High Beam, Right or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x02 Low Beam, Left
0x03 Low Beam, Right
0x04 Parking Light, Left
0x05 Parking Light, Right
0x06 Fog Light, Left, Front
0x07 Fog Light, Right, Front
0x08 Turn Signal, Left, Front
0x09 Turn Signal, Right, Front
0x0A Turn Signal, Left, Rear
0x0B Turn Signal, Right, Rear
0x0C Unassigned 1
0x0D Lighting WBL Button?
0x0E Brake Light, Left
0x0F Brake Light, Right
0x10 Brake Light, Center
0x11 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x12 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x13 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 2
0x14 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 2
0x15 Licence Plate Lighting
0x16 Interior Lighting
0x17 Fog Light, Left, Rear
0x18 Fog Light, Right, Rear
0x19 Reverse Light, Left
0x1A Reverse Light, Right
0x1B Brake Force Display, Left
0x1C Brake Force Display, Right
0x1D Clamp 58g
0x1E LED Driving Lights Control
0x1F LED Front Field Illumination
0xFF Unknown Lamp
See this post for more information about the FRM module and how to program it - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/04/f10-halogen-headlight-module-issues.html
0x01 High Beam, Right or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x02 Low Beam, Left
0x03 Low Beam, Right
0x04 Parking Light, Left
0x05 Parking Light, Right
0x06 Fog Light, Left, Front
0x07 Fog Light, Right, Front
0x08 Turn Signal, Left, Front
0x09 Turn Signal, Right, Front
0x0A Turn Signal, Left, Rear
0x0B Turn Signal, Right, Rear
0x0C Unassigned 1
0x0D Lighting WBL Button?
0x0E Brake Light, Left
0x0F Brake Light, Right
0x10 Brake Light, Center
0x11 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x12 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x13 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 2
0x14 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 2
0x15 Licence Plate Lighting
0x16 Interior Lighting
0x17 Fog Light, Left, Rear
0x18 Fog Light, Right, Rear
0x19 Reverse Light, Left
0x1A Reverse Light, Right
0x1B Brake Force Display, Left
0x1C Brake Force Display, Right
0x1D Clamp 58g
0x1E LED Driving Lights Control
0x1F LED Front Field Illumination
0xFF Unknown Lamp
See this post for more information about the FRM module and how to program it - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/04/f10-halogen-headlight-module-issues.html
Monday, 26 May 2014
E60: Replacing headlight-washer caps / hinges!
Despite how it looks, you can't replace them with the bumper on. This is best done while the whole front bumper is off the car, but thesis the quick and dirty method, of course.
1. Lift each cap out of the bumper on the hinge and remove them by depressing the clips at the back and sliding the lugs out of the hinge.
2. Remove the screw holding each corner of the bumper to the wing using a 10mm wrench.
1. Lift each cap out of the bumper on the hinge and remove them by depressing the clips at the back and sliding the lugs out of the hinge.
2. Remove the screw holding each corner of the bumper to the wing using a 10mm wrench.
3. Pop the corner out of the wing and bend it out enough to reach behind the headlight-washer cap.
4. Remove the hinge / lever by bending one side out and unhooking it from the outer lugs, the other side should then come away easily.
5. Remove the spring by squeezing the coils towards each other and unhooking them from the inner lugs.
6. Fit the new spring as a reverse of removal.
7. Lift the spring up forwards and fit the new hinge / lever as a reverse of removal, then release the spring ensuring it is tight against the flat-bar on the hinge.
8. Refit each corner of the bumper.
9. Lift the hinges / levers out of the bumper and fit the caps.
4. Remove the hinge / lever by bending one side out and unhooking it from the outer lugs, the other side should then come away easily.
5. Remove the spring by squeezing the coils towards each other and unhooking them from the inner lugs.
6. Fit the new spring as a reverse of removal.
7. Lift the spring up forwards and fit the new hinge / lever as a reverse of removal, then release the spring ensuring it is tight against the flat-bar on the hinge.
8. Refit each corner of the bumper.
9. Lift the hinges / levers out of the bumper and fit the caps.
Saturday, 17 September 2011
E39: Windscreen Washer-Jet System Problems
Replacing / Unblocking the Pump - How to Guide: http://www.planet5.co.cc/2011/10/replacing-unclogging-washer-jet-pump.html
1. Disconnected/Broken Nozzle Hose:
Fault Finding: One washer-nozzle is not working at all / only emitting a tiny amount of water, while the other remains functional.
The hoses for the windscreen-washer run up the offside bonnet-hinge and along the back of the bonnet to reach the nozzels. Due to the constrictive nature of the plastic crimp-clips used to hold them in place, the hoses can be stressed while the bonnet is repeatedly opened and shut. This will most likely cause the plastic-connector to become unplugged from the nozzle [as with my car] so it's just a case of snapping the two connectors back together. The hoses could also be caused to split, so if the connectors are still in place then operate the system and check for leaks along the hose. You will probably need a replacement hose if it is split, unless it is near enough to the nozzle to chop off the split section and reseat it. If there is no leak then it is likely that the hose has been crimped shut, so check each plastic crimp-clip attaching it to the bodywork and adjust it so there's no restriction.
If you suspect you have this problem then check it over as soon as possible as there will be water/screenwash pouring down the back of the engine every time you use the washer system!!
2. Blocked / Faulty In-Tank Pump:
Fault finding: Both wash-jets are not emitting water, or emitting a small amount of water then stopping. No sound can be heard from the washer-jet pump, or the pump is very loud and appears to be struggling to get water through.
If there is no sound from the washers then, if the fuse hasn't blown, its likely the pump is dead and needs replacing. If the pump appears to be struggling but not pumping water then first unclip the hose at the join located under the bonnet, half way down the lip of the driver's wing and try the washers. If water isn't getting this far then a blocked hose/nozzle can be ruled out and the pump will need removing and replacing to unblock.
Sunday, 5 June 2011
E39: Condensation + Water in the Headlights
Water getting into the headlight units seems to be a pretty common problem on most 90s BMWs, with the E39 5 Series clearly being one of the worst affected - I've seen scores of people with this problem online, ranging from patches of condensation like mine to full blown fish tanks in the lower half of the lens and it would appear that no matter how serious the leak it's still a right pain to get shut of. Unless money is no object don't even consider a replacement, they start at £120 currently and go up from there.
I only began to notice condensation in my n/s light until after fitting the angel-eye rings, so assuming I'd not reassembled it correctly I removed the unit, blew away the droplets with a hair-dryer and reset the seal, as have countless others, to no avail. As the condensation spread over the whole face of the lens I began to scour message-boards looking for a successful fix and believe I've found a technique that does indeed work...
*** If your headlight unit has been damaged in a shunt, the lens is cracked, has a stone chip through it or if the rubber-seal has perished enough to no longer fill the gap then I'm afraid there's no pretty way to fix this problem and you'll have to replace the unit or it'll fail an MOT.
Dismantling the Headlamp unit :
1. Remove the 5 wiring-loom sockets from the back of each headlight.
2. Remove the 4 screws holding the light-cluster in place, located on the slam-panel and down the back of the cluster, using an 8mm wrench.
3. Pull the light-cluster forward from the inner side until the lug on the outer corner can be slid out and the cluster removed.
4. Slide off the strip of body-coloured trim and rubber seal from the bottom of the headlight.
Reverse the process to re-fit.
Drying the Lens :
Use pliers to slide off the 2 metals-clips on each of the round glass inner-lenses. The glass discs should then be easily removable [trickier with angel-eye rings glued to them], to get some air flow through to the outer-lens and, if you have any, mop away any moisture on the main area of the lens with a cloth.
The best way to dry the unit is to place the front section of the headlamp in a warm, arid place and just leave it for a day or two. As time is usually of the essence though, the most popular method is the good old hair-dryer. Condensation on the main lens area is easy to blow away from the rear, but the corner-indicator is in a separate pod where little air gets to it, so heat the outside of the corner-lens for a few minutes, then let it [and the hair-dryer] cool for a few minutes and evaporate and repeat the process until the drops are gone.
Refreshing the Seal :
1. Gently prize the rubber-seal from its recess around the rim of the rear section of the headlight.
2. Wash the seal using cold water, dry it completely and coat it entirely with a thin layer of petroleum-jelly [Vaseline].
3. Carefully press the seal back into its recess facing the opposite way it came out. [The original outer-facing edge should still be visible by the slim indent made by the lip on the front-section.] * Avoid stretching or compressing the seal while pushing it into the groove as this makes it difficult to get the right length to fit and you may need to rearrange it quite a bit to reach.
Sealing around the Corner-Indicator lens :
** If refreshing the seal does not work or the condensation is concentrated around the corner-indicator lens then there may be a minor break in the solid-seal here, so the only solution is to get messy with sealant.
I'd recommend a clear-drying, silicone-based multi-purpose sealant, although any old bathroom sealant will work and it's not too visible anyway with the light back in. Apply sealant into the gap of about 3mm that runs around the rim of the corner-indicator lens and press it right down into the seal with a screwdriver, this should give a nice, tight seal and show up any leak areas where blobs of sealant can be seen inside the lens. Apply more sealant on top and smooth round the entire edge with a finger. Be sure to wipe as much wet sealant from the light as possible, as well as rubbing away any leftover sealant from the lens after it has dried.
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