BMW Bosch Motronic 1.3 DME/ECU: Wiring Diagram + Chip Layout

Diagrams showing the internal wiring structure of the Bosch 1.3 DME electronic control unit for injected BMWs that use it, E30, E28, E34, etc...

High quality PDF - HERE.

Bosch Motronic 1.1-1.3 DME Complete Guide - HERE.

Bosch Motronic Plug Connector Pinouts - HERE.

F10/F11/G07: Front Fog-Lamp / Spot-Lamp Fault fix... the bulb or not the bulb?

 If you get 'Front Foglight Failure' coming up then it's likely a bulb has blown, but I believe it is a common problem on the F10 showing this error but both front fog lamps are still working, or a light not working but the bulb is not blown. It should be an easy fix.

REPLACING THE BULB / CHECKING FAULT:

1. Using an 8mm hex-socket remove four of the screws holding the front side of the corresponding wheel-arch liner - two from the bottom edge and the other two that run up the outer edge of the wheel-arch. This should be enough to peel the arch-liner back and see the back of the fog-light.

2. Remove the wiring-connector by pressing the clip and sliding it upwards.

3. Remove the bulb-holder in the back of the fog-lamp by giving it a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and it should pull out easily.

If the bulb is blown then it can be removed from the plastic holder and replaced.

IF IT'S NOT THE BULB:

The worst case scenario is a fault with the lighting module or wiring to it, see this post - https://www.beemerlab.org/2019/04/f10-halogen-headlight-module-issues.html, but it is far more likely to just be a loose wiring-connector behind the bumper.

Firstly, the wiring-connector to the fog-lamp itself connects from above, so it is possible moisture can fid its way in and corrode the terminals, which can be easily cleaned up with some emery-cloth and a small screwdriver/awl. It is also feasible that road dirt / debris can drop into the plug as it is removed, making it not seat correctly when it is replaced, so rule these out first.

Secondly, there is another wiring connector higher up in the front bumper behind the bottom of the headlight unit. It is hard to spot, as wires seem to run to the fog-lamps from both sides of the car and also link to the headlights, so it will appear as if the wiring to the fogs are intact, when this plug becoming loose or not properly connected will stop the fog-lamp working and throw the error, but not affect the headlights. This can be caused when a headlight has been removed for bulb-replacement or work on the front of the car, so if this work has been done to the car recently then be sure to check this plug. 

F10: Halogen Headlight Module Issues - when it's not the bulb... [TMS, FRM]

OK, a lot of F10 owners seem to have various problems with headlights not working properly and it is usually due to one of the light-modules. Gone are there days of simply replacing a bulb and you're away. The F10 has several modules for everything, all linked into the master CAS computer [Car Access System] and, where they may make for accurate diagnosis and a slick system when everything is working as it should do, they sure are a confusing nightmare when something goes wrong!

There are a zillion forum threads out there detailing problems with certain light-modules and the methods used to fix / replace / re-program them, ranging from serious in-depth coding discussion to a 'For Dummies' type guide on where to start when attempting this at home. Still, none of them seem to properly discuss what the modules are, what they do and where to look when you think (or someone tells you!) that they are at fault, so the purpose of this guide is to explain just that. Even when an error-code points at a faulty module (and there are so many light-module related fault-codes that they often do!), it may still just be a break in the wiring or a bad earth, so now you won't be baffled at the complexity of your BMWs lighting network the next time you replace a bulb, check the fuse and you're light still won't turn on.

How the F10 Lighting System works:

Unlike other modern cars, most if not all Fxx Series BMWs have a computer-module housed in each light-unit. These are called TMS modules and their job is to receive on/off commands from the car and regulate power to each bulb in the light-unit. In the headlights they also work as ballast for the halogen / xenon bulbs and control the auto-levelling function. The TMS modules all connect to a larger module known as the FRM, mounted inside the car's dashboard (usually in the driver's footwell), which controls all the various lights in the vehicle. Not just the exterior lights, but every single interior and courtesy light is connected separately to the FRM. All of the switch-gear is connected directly to the FRM module, even the ones mounted next to the map-reading lights that they operate and, when pressed, rely on the FRM to send power back to the bulb. In turn, the FRM reports to the central-CAS that all is OK, or reports a fault and sends up a message on the iDrive. The FRM module is not solid-state electronics either... it runs software. When the FRM receives a command to say, turn on the lower courtesy light in the rear passenger side door, the FRM scans the car for lights matching that code, finds it and sends power accordingly. When lights are swapped out for parts with a different FRM-code then the module won't find what it's looking for and can't turn the light on. This is where FRM coding and programming comes in - amending the light-codes in the module to match those of your new lights.

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Troubleshooting:

Obviously the bulb and fuse are OK, so where to look first if the light still won't turn on and the error message is still displayed? Before you get into the serious stuff, check for a physical fault first - this is most likely to be the culprit.

Breaks in Wire - If only one light is affected, say the N/S high-beam and all other lights work fine, then chances are there is a physical problem with the wiring. If modules are failing then noticeable faults should be more sporadic than a single light not turning on. An FRM-xxx fault-code will likely show up along with 'Left High-Beam Failure'. This is because the FRM cannot find the bulb in question or senses a short-circuit, but doesn't mean the FRM itself is faulty. The FRM-module scans constantly and will quickly find the bulb and cancel the error-message once a physical fault has been sorted, so ignore the FRM part of the fault-code and check the wiring first.
Common places where wire-breaks occur are inside the headlight unit itself, particularly where the car has been in a front impact of some sort, and to the right of the driver's (O/S) footwell. All the wiring for the switches and the FRM module dwell here and it is easy to knock them, especially if trim has been removed for other work. The wiring connector plugs can also get knocked and throw up FRM errors, so check all 5 are seated in the module.

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TMS Module Failures:

• Side-light / Angel Eye failure.
• Halogen headlight bulb failure.
• TMS-xxx fault-codes.

The TMS-module is fitted into the back of each headlight unit with two T20 screws and requires removal of the headlight to remove and replace it. To do this you will need to remove the front bumper, a guide for which is here. The most common cause of TMS failure is moisture getting into the sealed headlight - the circuitry is very sensitive to moisture and this will fry the entire module. A new spurious module can be bought from eBay for as little as £40 - they come with plenty of warranty and lots of happy customers so I would recommend this route. If genuine parts is your thing, then expect to pay ~£350(!) per module from BMW, or used items starting at £50. New modules are self-learning, making them 'plug-and-play' for a straight swap, but if pre-used items have been installed to a slightly different light unit then they may need re-coding to get working right. In my opinion, spurious parts are a winner for solid-state modules and for the price difference who's complaining.

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FRM Module Failures:

• Random front / rear lighting issues - e.g brake-lights stop working, indictors stop working, all lights work sporadically.
• Front/rear driving-lights only stay on for about 30-seconds then dim and do not come back on.
• Random exterior lights flashing on/off when headlights or ignition operated.
• One or more light related error messages, but lights still work.
• FRM-xxx fault-codes.

The FRM-module is a silver box located in the driver's-side footwell to the right of the pedals (on a right-hand-drive car.) It only requires removal of the plastic trim under the dash and at the front of the driver's door frame to replace and is held in by two 10mm nuts. Be careful though, wiring harnesses from lights/switch connect to both sides of the module, with the rearward facing ones quite hard to see, so make sure all 5 are fully removed before yanking the module. Spurious lighting modules are hard to find and will come blank, so require a full set of codes to be programmed matching your vehicle for them to work. Used genuine parts are your friend here, with FRM-modules ranging from £60-100 on eBay. All FRM-modules are interchangeable, even different part numbers, but you need to find one with the correct FRM version for your car. With most modern Fxx Series it will be running the FRM-3 software, so check it already this version. If not you can completely re-install the FRM software for your car, but you will need a copy of the software and coding become very involved. If you find a matching part for your car, chances are it had the same lighting array so will operate the lights correctly without coding, but if the car your module came from had a slightly different level of trim, or there had been an update to light configurations, then some lights will have a different code and you will need to check which ones are not functioning properly and amend the code stored in the FRM to suit those units. This is also true if standard lights are being upgraded to M-Sport variants, which will have a different code. Replacing the FRM, or any higher level module on your BMW should be programmed in some way, even if it is just to update the VIN-number stored on it to match your vehicle, so everything works 100% with the CAS and no errors are randomly thrown up in the future, though if you do get lucky and it works with all your lights then there is no reason it won't do so forever.

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Coding / Programming the FRM Module:

This is the daunting part for most people experiencing FRM-module problems or upgrading light-units. First of all you will need to be quite computer savvy. It really helps to know your way around Windows as setting up the software and getting it talking to the car will be a very steep learning curve for those who are not handy with their operating system. There is so much to write about BMW coding that I could do a multitude of posts covering it, so I will stick to what is needed for this task, though if you are getting seriously into it then check out the forums on
Apart from an OBD-ENET cable, there is software you will need including INPA, NCS Expert and Progman. These are available in a great package in this post - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/03/bmw-inpa-506-for-fxx-series-enet-cable.html

If you have fitted a new or uprated light unit, then amendments will need to be made to the FRM coding. This isn't too daunting once you have accessed the list of lights stored to the FRM, as all the data is already there and only the code for lights that differ from original need to be altered. If it is a new FRM-module you need to code in, this is about the most difficult lighting related bit of programming and involves coding the car's VIN-number to the new module, then listing the code to every light in your car one by one. Even so, once the FRM has been accessed using NCS Expert successfully, the actual coding part isn't too bad if you have the patience.

The forum threads I found essential are below:

BMWcoders.com - every subtle coding nuance is detailed on there, including lots on FRM.

For most of the tasks involved in repairing / recoding / installing a new FRM module see this guide - Coding in a new FRM Module for Dummies [https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184199]

Another great thread that covers individual light failures in the FRM, resetting short-circuit counters and forcing individual lights to come on is here - Resetting Short Circuit Counters in FRM Module [https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=866044]

A list of FRM Lamp IDs can be found in this post - BMW Fxx Series FRM Lamp ID Codes List

Front Bumper / Headlight Removal Guide


https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/130693-headlights-problem/

BMW FRM Lamp ID Codes List [Fxx Series, E92]

List of some FRM codes for vehicle lighting, used when coding / reprogramming FRM module. I will add more ID codes / alterations as I find out.

0x00 High Beam, Left or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x01 High Beam, Right or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x02 Low Beam, Left
0x03 Low Beam, Right
0x04 Parking Light, Left
0x05 Parking Light, Right
0x06 Fog Light, Left, Front
0x07 Fog Light, Right, Front
0x08 Turn Signal, Left, Front
0x09 Turn Signal, Right, Front
0x0A Turn Signal, Left, Rear
0x0B Turn Signal, Right, Rear
0x0C Unassigned 1
0x0D Lighting WBL Button?
0x0E Brake Light, Left
0x0F Brake Light, Right
0x10 Brake Light, Center
0x11 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x12 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x13 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 2
0x14 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 2
0x15 Licence Plate Lighting
0x16 Interior Lighting
0x17 Fog Light, Left, Rear
0x18 Fog Light, Right, Rear
0x19 Reverse Light, Left
0x1A Reverse Light, Right
0x1B Brake Force Display, Left
0x1C Brake Force Display, Right
0x1D Clamp 58g
0x1E LED Driving Lights Control
0x1F LED Front Field Illumination
0xFF Unknown Lamp

See this post for more information about the FRM module and how to program it - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/04/f10-halogen-headlight-module-issues.html

BMW BUS System Troubleshooting

Interesting and highly informative BMW training manual on troubleshooting the BUS system fitted to cars built from the late '90s through the 2000s. Detailed guides on design, diagnosis and repair of the original BMW CAN-BUS systems.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vIxKdCSqhcQqEKfE_VTRVw7PWJuP6rNE

BMW BUS SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING:

1. Introduction

2. Definitions

3. Controller Area Network (CAN bus):

• Introduction
• CAN bus topology
• Troubleshooting the CAN bus

4. Diagnosis Bus (D-bus):

• Introduction
• D-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the D-bus

5. Information and Body Bus:

• Introduction
• I/K bus topology
• Troubleshooting the I/K bus

6. Peripheral Bus (P-bus):

• Introduction
• P-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the P-bus

7. Motor Bus (M-bus):

• Introduction
• M-bus topology
• Troubleshooting the M-bus

8. Review Questions

All models using Bus System from model year 1991 onwards.

This module discusses:

• Advantages of using bus systems in a vehicle.
• Various bus systems used in most BMW vehicles.
• Operating principles of a serial bus.
• Methods of troubleshooting bus lines using the diagnosis program.
• Distinguishing a correctly operating bus line on an oscilloscope.

Have fun!

E60 Driver's Door: No power to windows, mirrors, remote-lock, etc. - Door Module fuse.

Symptoms:

• Driver's window switch-panel doesn't operate or illuminate buttons.
• Remote door-lock doesn't operate, but all doors operate when key is turned.
• Driver's door courtesy light does not illuminate.
• Mirror control and other door switches do not operate or illuminate.
• Speaker still works.

Cause:

FUSE 10 - 30A - [Driver's Seat Adjustment] It's the first green fuse from the left in the glove compartment fuse-box.

The fuse is labelled Driver's Seat Adjustment, but is really just power from Terminal 30, which also supplies the Driver's Door Module. This module is located inside the driver's door and metes out power to the different door components so that all operations are communicated back to the CAS [Comfort Access System]. This means that when the fuse to the door module blows, power is lost to the window, mirror, etc. switch panel, the remote door lock, basically everything except the speaker. This causes a lot of confusion as to the root of the problem, as it would be very hard to guess that the fuse for the driver's seat adjustment motors would also power a hidden module in the door that controls everything. Oh well, that's modern cars. 

There is a lot of conflicting information on forums about this. It appears that most people have the symptoms described above and not one reply mentions this fuse! Owner's have even shelled out for new door modules which have had no effect and perhaps their lack of further contribution to the thread suggest the same sheepish frustration I felt when I found the fuse. Quite a few people have foxed indy auto-electricians with this problem, who have probably been testing wires, as I did, while not knowing about the fuse.

I eventually discovered the fuse by tracing the wiring diagrams on bmw-planet.com. This is a brilliant place to access the TIS wiring-diagrams and navigate them easily. I have condensed the layout of the door module wiring in the pic below.

E60: Glow plugs + control-module - time to sort this.

I mentioned the glow plugs in this post, but have had no change in the error codes coming up for all 6. These are the last remaining fault codes that have not been ironed out since February so I thought I'd get into it in more detail now I have DIS at my disposal, which finally threw up an error for the glow plug control-module [though it wouldn't say for sure], so it's almost certain this is the fault. I read a lot of people mentioning the 'relay' on forums, but this is referring to the same part.

The control-modue is about £75 on eBay for an OEM part made by Beru, which isn't too bad. The inlet-manifold will have to come off again so I am tempted to replace all 6 glow plugs at the same time just to make sure. I do, after all, have a M57NTU2 cylinder-head lying around with 6 nearly new plugs in so it won't cost anything and seems to be a no brainer, though I am terrified of one of the current plugs will break and get stuck in my good engine.

Diagnosis:
The original scan with Autocom CDP+ only showed errors for all six glow plugs [codes 4212, 4222, 4232, 4242, 4252, 4262]. All of them were intermittent and had failed at the same times, 31 out of 40 starts. I got INPA running, which is BMW only software and read the correct DDE version 5.x instead of the 6.x forced on me by Autocom and showed correct values for the injectors, yet it just showed the same errors for all 6 glow plugs.
When I eventually got DIS up and running it threw up a fault for the glow plug control-module itself [Glow control B1362_D5BSDGSG], but with no fault-code and even after running pre-heating tests on the glow plug system [battery float-charger came in handy here] it still could not say the control-module was

definitely faulty. Instead it suggested a 'break in all lines to heater-plugs', which is seriously unlikely and after checking them in May there was no sign of this at all; and a failure in the supply of voltage at Terminal 30. Terminal 30 it turns out just means constant battery power and I tested this at the control-module socket with a solid 12v, so it would seem beyond all logical doubt that the module itself is failing intermittently somehow.

Cause:
As for how the control-module could have failed is open to debate, as it was only removed from the old engine for a short time before being fitted to the new one, not moved around and stored. Its location, right under the coolant return hose from the head means water could have spilled over the control-module at some points during the swirl-flap repair and the constant 12v supply made the module live whenever the battery was connected. In fact, as I was in such a rush to get the head back off and find the oil leak [here] I ended up draining the coolant from the return hose first, rather than fully draining the coolant from the radiator. This allowed water/coolant to run down the right side of the engine and over the starter-motor, EGR-solenoid, glow-plug controller and main wiring junction-box, which by any account was a bad thing to do. Yet, had this shorted the live wire of the module or individual plugs to ground then it would only render them inoperable temporarily and not cause damage to the units themselves. If water had got inside the sealed module or caused some sort of overload, then that would have been pretty final and I can't see how the module would work at all after that.

Both the glow plugs and control-module are the same part number throughout the entire E60 and LCI range. The design was revised for the control-module in 2005 and this is the only part available now [12217801201] and replaces the old design [12217788327]. This is largely irrelevant anyway, as both my original and 2004 replacement engine share the old part.
It could simply be the sooty condition of the new engine when I first fitted it, too much entering the inlet, or just the age of the plugs that caused my original module to work harder than it's used to and start to fail. Either way I will replace it in due course and hope it clears the 6 glow plug errors, as it has for most people on the forums.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1979844-E60-Failed-new-glow-plug-controller

http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/73107-2004-e60-530d-glowplug-controller-replaced/

E60: Second fault already... Front Parking-sensor!

How ironic! Just as I put paid to the E39's rear parking-sensor issue, a front sensor goes on the E60... they do seem to be temperamental little things those same sensor-units used from the E38 up until 2008 - they can be working fine one moment and then just fail over night!

 A few years ago one of my company directors had an E65 730Li, which started to spend a lot of time in our workshop under diagnostic. He blamed CANBUS issues and his symptoms were the car's electronics having a mind of their own, then as soon as one fault was rectified another would pop up straight away. I'm guessing the E60 uses the same technology as the E65, so can be forgiven for thinking mine might have the same issue seeing as the 'PDC' (parking-sensor) error came up the second I turned the key after fitting my new sidelight bulb...

Blown fuse?

The first thing to check, but mine wasn't blown and chances are yours won't be either, it's never the fuse with these BMW parking-sensors. The fuse is No. 21 in the glove-box, a green 30A.

Wet control-modules?

The sensors then fixed themselves for a day or two and then gave up completely, leading me to believe it was not just a failed bumper-unit. I hear on forums that intermittent PDC problems can be caused by a small amount of water being let in to the spare-wheel well while the boot is open and, without any drain holes, this can pool right where the PDC control-module is. Just a drop in the wrong place can cause erratic PDC behaviour and the module is fitted right at the bottom of here wheel-well, a bit of a design flaw, but it's only casually fixed in place on long wires so it's a good idea to move the module to a higher piece of ground somewhere else in the boot. I'll be putting up a guide for this as soon as I get round to it.

Broken sensor?

Yes. Those with vast experience tell me in 99.9% of these cases it's simply one of the bumper-sensors has thrown its hand in over night, which renders the entire system inoperable, as they work in a sort of daisy-chain. The only way to check which sensor is at fault is to kneel down at the front and rear of the car and put your ear to each sensor. As they work on a sonar principle the working sensors should emit a (pretty loud when your close) clicking sound. When you find the one that isn't clicking, that's your duff sensor - a lot easier than plugging the car into a diagnostic! 

Sure enough, all my sensors were clicking away save for one - the front driver's-side centre one, ironically one that happens to be located under the headlight I removed to sort the parking-light issue, so I can perhaps see what happened there. It's too much of a coincidence for that sensor to fail right at that point in time, so it looks like I've disturbed something or allowed water into the back of the sensor somehow. I gave the wires to the sensor a good wiggle and traced them back to the loom, but still nothing, so got straight onto eBay and bought a replacement sensor. It's pre-painted in Titan-silver, having been pulled off an '04 E60 and was £33 delivered. This was a bit more than the E39 sensor, but I know it's the right part and it's still a lot cheaper than the £125 from BMW, plus the 2-3 week wait and fitting charge.

REPLACEMENT PROCESS:

For Front-Centre Sensors:

** This couldn't be easier. The official procedure and internet forums recommend removing the 'bumper-skin' to replace the middle-front sensors, which is basically the whole bumper. This is totally unnecessary! You can get to them through the lower grille and don't need to have tiny hands or be double-jointed. This is for non-M-sport bumpers, I assume the larger mesh-grille on M-sport models is attached from behind and would need the bumper to come off, but if it is detachable then this would be even easier. **

1. Remove the black plastic grille-bars from the lower grille by unclipping the horizontal bar from the lug at either side. This is done by lifting the bar and pulling it forward. The vertical bars simply pop off.

2. Reach into the grille aperture and up towards the corresponding sensor, you will feel the wires about 5-inches up.

3. Remove the wire-connector by pressing in the clip at either side and the plug should easily wiggle off.

4. Remove the parking-sensor from its mount by wiggling it from behind and slowly pulling it towards the rear of the car. At the same time, gently apply pressure to the exterior-face of the sensor with your thumb. Once it is about 2mm into the bumper it should slide out easily.

5. Push in the new sensor from behind, ensuring it is the right way up - that is with the single small lug and wire connector at the top (12 o'clock) - then plug the wiring connector back in and replace the grille-bars.


For Front-Corner Sensors:

1. Remove the headlight that is above the corresponding parking-sensor by referring to Steps 1-6 of THIS GUIDE.

2. The parking-sensor is located just beneath the outer corner of the headlight and is easily accessible from above. Refer to steps 3, 4 and 5 of the above guide to replace.