BMW 2002 Turbo - Sales Brochure + Technical Specifications Booklet [PDF 8.6MB]

 BMW 2002 Turbo Brochure / Tech Spec [right-click to download]

BMW M10 Engine Family Tree

Interesting press release from BMW showing some derivatives of the much-loved 4-cylinder M10 engine, which I have covered in much detail before.

"With half the cylinders and half the power of todays V8 M3, the original 1986 car remains one of our all-time favourites. Its seemingly indestructible four-cylinder iron block, however, goes back to 1962 and the BMW 1500. This was also the block that formed the basis of the 1.5-litre turbo F1 engines that powered Brabham to many a race victory. That's not just the block type -- BMW Motorsport used actual 1500 blocks sourced from scrapyards, because the older the block, the fewer stresses remaining in it. Never has a production engine family been more versatile."

All the best for 2020 from BeemerLab.org!

Wishing everyone all the best for a nice and productive new year... heres some pleasant 2002s for 2020... 

Bought an F10 530d!!

Guess there's only so much one can do to the E60, so I splurged on a 12-plate F10. Loving it. Still got the E60 though for now...

Look at them kidney grilles.

Got the 17" 10-spokes, all with brand new run-flats. The ride is sublime, but may throw on the 18" 7-spokes from the E60, or may even go for 19' Ms... time will tell.

Love the super-bright rear lights and the tail-pipe. If that blasted DPF has one silver lining, it's them pipes.

E60 Diesel: Replace Turbo Waste-Gate [Actuator]

This is a pretty easy job and can be done with removing the turbo, exhaust-manifold or rocker cover.

1. Remove the inlet duct to the air-filter housing. It's held by a T30-Torx screw at the front and just unclips from the housing.
2. Remove the boost-pipe from the top of the turbo by removing the screw from the left side of where it joins to the turbo using a 10mm wrench, then loosening the right hand screw using a T30-Torx socket and rotating the collar clockwise until it can be pulled out of the turbo.
3. Remove the other end of the boost-pipe from the left side of the intercooler by reaching from underneath with a flathead screwdriver and sliding the metal clip down. The pipe should pop the intercooler easily and be pulled out from above. [This can be done without fully removing the engine-undertrays].
4. Gently slide the rubber vacuum-hose off the metal spout on the waste-gate.
5. Remove the three screws holding the waste-gate to the turbo using a 10mm wrench. [There is just enough room down the left side of the engine to get a ring-spanner on, otherwise a ratchet with a short extension-bar may get them more easily].
6. Push a cloth or some tissue roll down under the bottom of the waste-gate between the turbo inlet and exhaust wheels to stop the retaining-clip getting lost into the engine and slide the clip off the waste-gate arm using a long flat screwdriver. [There is just enough clearance to get an angle with the screwdriver and just about see the clip. The clip will probably have to be removed with a stick-magnet].
7. Slide the waste-gate arm off the stud and remove it.
8. Refit the new waste-gate as a reversal of above, being careful not to lose the retaining-clip during refitting. The clip may need holding in position with a stick-magnet as it is pushed down with a flat screwdriver.

E60 Diesel: Replacing the Front Turbo Housing/Volute

**The turbo needs to be removed. Reaching the 8mm nuts at the back of the volute is impossible               with it in situ.

1. Mark a line on the original volute / front-casing where each 8mm screw is located before removing it. It is adjustable and the new one needs to be in the exact same place as the original for correct waste-gate location.
2. Remove the 3 screws holding the waste-gate bracket to the turbo front-casing / volute using a 10mm wrench.
3. Remove the 6 screws holding the front-casing / volute to the turbo and wiggle it free.
4. Hold the new volute up to the original and mark lines in the corresponding places. This is best done with them on a flat surface and holding a straight-edge across both.
5. Slide the new volute on to the turbo and replace the six 8mm screws, ensuring the lines are correctly located before tightening them up. It is alloy-to-steel, so no high-heat gasket-paste is required.
6. Press the waste-gate into the right position for the bracket to meet the holes on the volute and replace the three 10mm screws holding it in place.

Why I replaced mine:

With re-con turbos starting at £350, I went for a used one from a crash damaged 7-Series. Mine is an early E60 and has the vacuum-actuated turbo, so it was handy that the 7er did too as they are hard to source - eBay is full of the electronic-actuated type and I couldn't see a vacuum one, but it may be that they are inter-changeable.

The overall condition of the turbo looked worse than the one I was removing, but there is a bit less play in the spindle-shaft so worth a shot at £200 delivered, let's hope the saving pays off. The only drawback is the front-casing was slightly damaged at the point where the pipe to the intercooler fits, but swapping the original one in was not a difficult job.

E60 Diesel: Remove/Replace Turbocharger

Removing and refitting the turbo itself is not a difficult task, but the mass of other parts that need removing to access it makes this a reasonable amount of effort.

You will first need to remove:

Engine covers. [5mm Allen]

Air inlet ducting and air-filter. [5mm Allen]

Inlet manifold. [10mm + 11mm Hex]

Injector pipes. [17mm open-end wrench]

Injectors. [8mm Hex]

Rocker cover. [10mm deep-Hex]

Turbo to intercooler pipe. [10mm Hex + T30-Torx]

Airbox to turbo pipe. [5mm Allen]

EGR to exh.-manifold pipe. [T45-Torx + 7mm Hex]

Exhaust-manifold. [10mm deep-Hex + 12mm deep-Double-Hex]

Front engine-undertray. [8mm Hex]

Engine reinforcement-plate. [16mm Hex]

Exhaust vibration-damping rods. [13mm Hex]

REMOVAL:

1. Remove the two nuts holding the down-pipe/cat to the back of the turbo using a 17mm wrench and work the down-pipe back off the studs.

2. Remove the banjo-bolt that attaches the turbo oil-feed to the block using a 14mm wrench, remove that end of the oil-feed pipe and loosely screw the banjo-bolt back in a few turns to stop any oil leaking from the block. Put some cloth against the block under the pipe to catch any drips and remove and retain the 2 copper washer-seals as they are easily misplaced.

3. Reach under the turbo, locate where the lower oil-return pipe enters the rubber-hose to the sump and loosen off the upper jubilee-clip using a 6mm-Hex socket or flat screwdriver if you can get access. Let the jubilee-clip slide down the rubber hose.

4. Slide off the rubber-hose that runs to the waste-gate on the turbo.

5. Make sure the turbo's weight is supported, remove the two bolts holding the turbo-bracket to the block using a 13mm wrench and lift the turbo out, carefully sliding the lower oil-return pipe out of the rubber-hose.

FITTING:

6. **Ensure all oil-feed pipes etc. are swapped over to the new turbo**. Lower the new turbo into position, sliding the lower oil-return pipe back into the rubber-hose and loosely refit the two bolts.
7. Tighten the jubilee-clip on the oil-return hose and refit the oil-feed hose back on to the banjo-bolt, making sure the copper-washers are in place either side.
8. Place the exhaust vibration-damping rods back in place to locate the down-pipe and loosely refit the 13mm nuts.
9. Refit the neck of the down-pipe to the back of the turbo and tighten the 17mm nuts.
10. Place the exhaust-manifold over the studs on the cylinder-head and manoeuvre the turbo into a position where the bolts holding it to the manifold can be fitted. It can be trick to do while keeping the gasket aligned. Turn the three manifold-to-turbo bolts using a 12mm deep-Double-Hex (12-sided) socket until the manifold is seated, but do not fully tighten them.
11.  Lift the turbo to take the weight off the manifold and fully tighten the two bolts holding it to the block using a 13mm wrench. They are a pain to get to but it is doable, also a lot easier with someone else lifting the turbo.
12. Replace the twelve copper-nuts that hold the exhaust-manifold to the cyl.-head and tighten them using a 10mm deep 6-sided socket, as the strip easily with 12-sided ones.
13. Tighten the three bolts holding the manifold to the turbo.
14. Re-connect the rubber vacuum-hose to the waste-gate.
15. Refit the other things on the above list.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-replace-Turbocharger-on-BMW-30L-Diesel-E60E/

E60: Update + New Turbo!

Right, now the E60 is back on the road and all legit it's time I fine fettled the engine-vacuum and rattling exhaust issues left from the engine swap. The exhaust needs realigning at the back of the turbo so it doesn't contact the bracket and the vibration-dampers can be set correctly. The only way to do this is to first remove the rocker-cover and injectors and after my injector-seal problems with the new engine I haven't been able to justify doing that unless it's really essential and that time is now.
The culmination of all my messing around with the vacuum-lines [from this post] is a partly-boosting turbo that sounds like a police-siren. From the word go I was told this is the key sign of a broken turbo, but just couldn't believe it as the turbo seemed to be working ok after the initial engine rebuild (or was it?!) and the other vacuum niggles gave me false hope that it could be a cheap, easy fix. I should have learned by now that this is never the case and have now come to the conclusion of a glaringly obvious broken turbo. I guess that swirl-flap destroyed every part of the motor that it passed through, so lets hope and pray, seriously, that I don't have catalytic-converter issues in future.

So here is my replacement turbo. It's from an E65 730d and was the only used turbo I could find that fits my 'vacuum-actuated' setup, rather than the later and far more common 'electronic-actutor' type. I got it for the spiffing price of just £200, including delivery, but alas there is another catch - the front casing is dented at the outlet-port to the intercooler and the alloy has cracked, maybe during transit, but probably in the crash that wrote-off the 7-Series. This isn't a major setback though, as the front casing just bolts on and is a dry fit, so should not be much drama to swap the cleaner casing from my turbo onto this one. It also plays no part in the functionality of the blower, so if the mechanism works then it works. I'm no turbo expert but there is less play in the spindle than my current blower so if it cures the problem it will have definitely been worth the extra effort for the knock-down price.

E60: Split Vac-line, some boost, weird noises.

The turbo whine and lack of boost has persisted, so I took off the inlet-manifold again to check the vacuum-lines and found one has snapped off. Luckily, there was plenty of hose left to cut it down and push it back onto the T-piece. I re-checked every line twice against the diagrams on RealOEM.com and refitted the manifold, making sure the seals were super flush. Now when I fired up the turbo started making a ridiculous whoosh and dump-valve style hiss, as in the vid below. Some boost had returned too, though not as much as there should be and certainly nothing like the turbo sounded. Still, the vac-line repair did get a result, so it looks there could be life in the turbo yet.

There was nothing else I could do other than pore over the vac-line configuration, so I made this quick one-piece diagram to show the route of the four coming off the servo-pipe to save switching between several diagrams on RealOEM. I then started pulling vac-lines off in order to find the faulty area and, amazingly, managed to get rid of the whoosh/hiss and still have some boost. The turbo is still whistling though and there is not enough pull as you get over 2k rpm, so something is still amiss.

• Split vac-line to swirl-flaps - Low boost, quiet turbo-whistle higher up.
• Repaired vac-line - Some boost low down, cuts out higher up. Loud whoosh and hiss noise, turbo-whistle constantly.
• Vac-hose removed from wastegate - Low boost, quiet turbo-whistle higher up.
• Swirl-flaps and engine-mount vac-lines switched round - Some boost, no whoosh/hiss, constant turbo whistle, less engine vibration.

The diagrams do not make clear the route of the red/black striped hose on the right of mine. This turned out to be the N/S engine-mount and another scan of RealOEM.com revealed how they work in the pic below. I had wondered about a problem with the engine-mounts anyway, as there seems to be a lot more engine vibration than before, especially on tickover, so my next job will be to find the pipes that link the mounts together and check their condition. They all run through the subframe next to the steering-rack. M57N is a complicated vacuum arrangement.

E60: Turbo whine and no boost!

With the engine-swap teething problems put to rest and the car back on the road [at last!], there was bound to be a few running faults. All in all its going like a dream, though I would say the engine is a lot noisier and vibrates more than before. This could mainly be due to the lack of acoustic-covers and under-trays as I iron out defects, but not entirely so I will have to look at the pneumatic engine-mounts when I have time.

When I got the car out for a good run, the main problem I notice is a serious lack of boost. The turbo is also making a low-pitch whining noise, which sounds a bit like a police siren. I read that this is the noise of a dying turbo, though I find this a little hard to swallow as it was fine before and I see no reason how being removed from the car for 3 weeks would affect it. Far more likely that I've messed up attaching some vac-line or wire-connector, or lets hope so anyway. It's an annoying whistle, as it can only be heard while driving under load and not when revving at a stop.

• Turbo can be seen spinning.
• No front-rear play on spindle-shaft, hardly any left-right play.
• Pipes from turbo to intercooler and intercooler to inlet OK.
• Removed and cleaned air-temp. sensor.
• Some boost air is coming from the intercooler outlet.

Before I diagnose a dead turbo and start spending any more money, I will check the vacuum lines meticulously and also re-check the pipes for splits. The turbo also needs looking at, from the oil-feed to how it's fitting the manifold. The waste-gate doesn't seem to be operating and that seems a bit too serious to be caused by such a small vac-line fault. Ho hum, the saga continues...

E60: Bad Oil Leak - was it running too well after rebuild?!

I've covered 125 miles on the new head / ground piston since putting the engine back together last weekend and the car has performed great. However, I was checking the oil and finding it hardly showing on the dipstick. On Wednesday night I poured in another half litre of oil and it began to show on the dipstick, about one third up. It was in the same place the following morning, so I poured in another half litre, got it up to near max on the dipstick and carried on using the car. Almost immediately I could smell fresh oil from the heater / air-con. There had been no dropped oil for the first few days [engine under-trays still off], but there sure was now. A small patch every time I pulled up and stopped the engine. Some investigation revealed no oil to be leaking while the engine is cold, but once up to temp. it is a constant drip from underneath the turbo area and a few drips from elsewhere, mainly from oil running along the sway-bar and cross-members. Oil is also ending up in the air-intake and being burned by the engine. This is not good!

This was after running the engine for 2 minutes on a fresh piece of newspaper!

Here is where the bulk of it is coming from - the turbo oil-feed pipe. It may also be from the oil-return pipe, located under the turbo. Hopefully this is too much oil or oil-pressure finding its way out through the loosest seals. If not, the turbo seals have gone and the blower is on its way out.

Oil is flying into the air-intake also, so the injector tips have become quite cruddy with oily residue. Nasty, though the nozzles remain quite clean and all 6 appear to be working OK.

This is the breakdown:

• Simply an overfill - oil-pressure is too high and leaking from multiple loose seals.
• Turbo oil-seal gone - oil is gushing from the middle of the turbo and getting into the inlet.
• Blocked CCV - the crankcase can't breathe is causing high oil-pressure and leaks.
• Complete turbo failure - bits of swirl-flap unbalanced the exhaust-wheel and wrecked the spindle, oil is now leaking from the centre-bearing and the blower is finished. 

There is a little bit of lateral play in the spindle, so that horrible last option could be the case, but at least a re-con turbo is only £325 on eBay, not too bad. Hopefully it's the first option and dropping some oil back out of this thing could cut the leak right back. Oil getting into my inlet is not good news for a diesel though and I could end up with my engine running on its own oil and unable to turn off, at which point I hope there is enough room in the traffic to stall the motor out!

My plan of action is thus:

• Drain 2 litres of oil back out. [I can always put more back in.]
• Watch for blue-smoke developing. [None as yet, but a bit of white smoke on startup.]
• Get someone at work to check play in the turbo-spindle. [They say it's passable and a leaky turbo would give bad smoke, a broken one would be noticeable.]
• Replace CCV [crankcase-ventilator]. [eBay £37.50 delivered.]
• Replace oil-filter. [Euro Car Parts £5.99.]
• Replace copper-washers on turbo oil-feed pipe.
• Replace turbo... gulp.