F10 530d: Cleaning up the 17” Cromodora alloys...

Thought I would give the 17 inch Cromodora alloys a quick clean while the tyres were off for replacement. I can't imagine they have been cleaned inside the rim in the car's entire 170,000 miles. I jet-washed them, gave them a liberal coating of Autosmart Ali-Shine (it's basically 'wheel acid') and jet-washed them again, thats it. You can see they have had a bit of a hard life, but I have to say for that mileage they haven't come up half bad!

 

E30 Stance - Steel wheels or modern wheels??

E30 wheels is a magnificent topic of discussion, so lets have a couple of different takes on wheels for the old 3er...

By far the most common wheels to bestride the E30 are cross-wire / BBS styles. and beyond that owners tend to stick to solid period styled alloy wheels like Azev-A five-spokes or Borbet C. Personally I think the old-school BMs look best with steel-wheels such as the almighty Weller competition wheels, as in the pic above, especially with a lowered car. These are built for heavy-duty dirt-track racing and off-road and I think give a lowered E30 the best squat / rat look.

At the other end of the spectrum, here are some ultra-modern Japanese-style alloys on a 325is. I am not 100% on who makes these, but they look very much like RAYS Volk or Rota wheels. You don't see many wearing rims like these, certainly not done well anyway, but why not? Sharp lines suit sharp lines and the 3-box shape combined with large modern alloys gives the E30 a very purposeful look and go-kart stance.

E46 Clubsport: New split-rims!

Oh yes... it's time the 330CS had some money lavished on it and what better way to start than new wheels. They are the same set of Italian-made Cromodora 18x8 and 18x8.5 2-piece split-rims that come with the car. He still has the old ones, but after 2 failed attempts to refurbish them he's been keeping an eye out for a replacement set, which aren't common. Finally some have shown up and been quickly snaffled for £ delivered. They've been sandblasted back to bare metal, then lacquered and the colour / finish is very nice indeed. Awesome.

Also, a rubber rocker-cover gasket to signify the start of the engine tweaks. Lots more to come...

E60 530d MOT Fail - Brakes, Trailing Arm

After the horror of the swirl-flap failure and engine swap, the E60 went off the road again at the start of December after an annoying MOT fail on imbalanced brakes, likely discs and pads, and split trailing arm bushes on the N/S. The tester also failed it on a bend in the rim of the N/S/R alloy wheel, which is reasonably bad, but enough to be an MOT fail I am not too sure.

This is the bush on the offending arm with the most play, but I still can't see a major split as I have with other bushes.

Closer inspection reveals what could be a split on the right side of the pic, but it's still not a shut case. Maybe the rubber has separated from the metal outer and is moving around?

Ok, so it's no small dent. The inner rim is bent, where the tyre sits, but I've had similar sized ones before that have been no problem. 

Is it repairable? Perhaps, but I have no spare wheel to use and a replacement is £200. Maybe the MOT tester was having a bad day?

E21 316: 8Js won't fit the front...

After all the hacking and cutting on the rear arch to only discover I needed smaller tyres, today I threw an 8J onto the front with 20mm spacers, as without they just hit the track-rod end and wont even sit flush, and I find that space is even more limited at this end.

With the lip pulled out this time by hand, then neatened up a little with the baseball-bat / metal-bar rolling trick, the big 45-profile tyres still contact the back of the arch.

When steered hard-right, the tyre rubs past the edge of the bumper and fender, so it had to be jacked to turn the wheel straight again. The tyre also bent the edge of the front-valance, cracking the fibreglass repair I did last summer. A good inch would need to be cut off the valance here and I'm not sure lower profile tyres alone will remedy this, so some will need chopping off anyway, best keep it to a minimum. Oh, and I must save up for those camber-plates!

E21 316: Making the 9Js fit the rear...

Summary of the bank-holiday weekends activities:

Pulled the N/S/R wheel-arch back out and cut it off.
Peeled back the inner-skin of the arch and cut about 4 inches off it.
Cut a notch out of either side of where the arch meets the bumper shut-line.

The outer rim of the arch is now way off the tyre, but I could see a black rubber mark further up inside the inner wheel-arch.

The car was now rolling with a driver in, but one test drive revealed that any bump causes rubbing and the rim of the tyre caught the sharp edge of the cut inner arch, which chewed it pretty bad.

I've made a lot of space up there, so before I start hacking away any more arch, I'm going to buy smaller, lower profile tyres, I think that is now clear.

E21 316: Fatter Wheels - 16x8/9J staggered BBS RS Split-Rim Reps!

I love the old Melbers, but couldn't resist buying some bigger, wider rims to fill out my arch clearance. I've ended up with 16x8 for the front, which should be ok with 20mm spacers, and 16x9 for the back. They say it can't be done without cutting the arches. Well, I'm going to have to find a way, because I need that 3.5" lip and I ain't cutting. 

9s stick out a bit even with just 20mm spacers...

The 8s below are for the front, but fit the rear with a bit more clearance than the 9s...

...but lets face it, they're not deep enough!

Fat rims.

With a bit of negative camber the rim is not far from the arch-lip and I think a stretched tyre will go under, but a bit more rolling will be necessary...

Roller skate style!

9s may need a little more spacing on the back to get off the strut and trailing arm...

And no, you may have guessed, they're not real split-rims, they're one-piece replicas and cost less than £400 delivered from royal_wax on eBay. A genuine set of BBS splitties has been floating around on there too, yours for £1600 without tyres, so I think I'll suffer with the replicas for now. The finish is a bit cheap and tacky, but hey, I'll be painting them up in Panama Beige anyway and I wouldn't be doing that to real ones. Even so it's been anther expensive week and I've got to find some rubber this week... I'm thinking 205_40_16 front, maybe Falken, and 225_40_16 rear Toyo T1-R, so let's hope I can get another cheap deal through work and that should save me a few hundred quid! I wish someone would hurry up and buy my Melbers - surely with the Toyo T4s stretched on they're worth £300 - come one people!