BMW M20 Engine: Front Timing Marks [Front Timing Cover]

Here is a great diagram someone (not me) has made to show the front timing marks for the M20 engine series. Handy. 

M40 engine timing marks HERE.

BMW E21 323i Baur wins HERO-ERA Summer Trial

I've been interested in HERO (The Historic Endurance Rallying Organisation) since owning my red E21 and had intended to enter that car in one of the smaller events, as they host a few throughout the year. The big one is the Summer Trial in June and it was nice to see another E21 taking first place this year. A Baur cabriolet no less. Better late than never to throw up a pic of Angus McQueen and Mike Cochrane's HERO winning 323i...

Pic: Classic & Sports Car Magazine, Aug 2021

HERO EVENTS & ERA EVENTS - The Original Classic Rally - https://www.hero-era.com

Elon Musk had a '79 E21 3 Series!

Of course he did! He's a genius, why wouldn't he?

And he was the same age as me when I had my Henna Red one. Mine was well better... why aren't I a billionaire?!

OK, enough celebrity with Beemer posts now I promise...


Other celebrity BMWs:
Easy-E 850i
Will Smith E28 5er
Britney Spears E36 M3
Bob Marley Bavaria New Six

BMW Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection - Strip-Down / Maintenance Guide + Diagrams [E30, E21, E28]

Throttle Housing:
1. Disconnect the cables (1, 2 or 3) as applicable - Fig. 1.
2. Pull off the vacuum hoses, the coolant hoses (1 and 2) - allowing the coolant to drain - and the air hoses (3 and 4) from the throttle housing - Fig. 2.
3.Remove the vacuum hoses (1 and 2), and the air hose (3) and pull off the multi-pin plug (4) - Fig. 3.
4. Remove the fixing nuts and take off the throttle housing. Do not separate the throttle switch from the housing, as a special gauge will be required to adjust it when refitting.
5. Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new gasket and bleed the cooling system.

Throttle Vacuum Control:
1. Pull off the hose (1), release the nut (2) and remove the vacuum control (3) - Fig. 4.
2. When refitting, adjust dimension (B) to between 32.8mm and 33.2mm (1.291" and 1.307") using screw (4).
3. Adjust dimension (A) to between 2.6mm and 3.0mm (0.102" and 0.118") using screw (2) - Fig. 5.

Control Unit:
1. Open the glove compartment and pull the pins from the retaining straps.
2. Remove the screws and place the glovebox cover to one side.
3. Depress the retainer (1) and pull out the multi-pin plug (2) - Fig. 6. Remove the control unit.

Air-flow Sensor:
1. Release the clamp and pull the duct from the air-flow sensor.
2. Disconnect the multi-pin plug, unscrew the fixing nuts and withdraw the sensor.
3. Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew the seal if necessary.

Temperature Time Switch:
1. Pull off the plug, then unscrew and remove the switch.
2. Refit the switch using a new sealing washer.

Coolant Temperature Sensor:
1. Pull off the plug and unscrew the sensor. Refit using a new sealing washer.

Cold Start Valve:
1. Pull off the plug (1) and disconnect the fuel line (2) - Fig. 7.
2. Unscrew the mounting bolts (3 and 4) and withdraw the valve.
3. Use new seal when refitting.

Fuel Injectors:
1. Unscrew the four injection tube bolts and push the tube upwards until the fuel injectors have cleared the guide in the intake manifold.
2. Pull off the plug (1) and take out the circlip (2) - Fig. 8.
3. Take off the fuel injector.
4. Refitting is a reversal of removal; use new O-ring seals.

Throttle Shaft Return Springs:
1. Disconnect the throttle, kick-down and cruise-control cables. (The latter two where applicable.)
2. Remove the retainer (1), washer (2) and disconnect the linkage (3) on the lever (4).
3. Raise the lever and turn it to relieve the spring tension.
4. Remove the lever.
5. Remove the spring.
6. Disconnect the spring (1) and unscrew the nut (2) - Fig. 9.
7. Remove the washer (1) and lever (2) - Fig. 10.
8. Remove the sleeve (1) and spring (2) - Fig. 11. - also the wave washer.
9. Reassemble in the reverse order to dismantling and adjust in the following way - Pull off the tamperproof lock (1) and loosen the screw (2) until the lever (3) no longer rests on the screw - Fig. 12.
10. Place a finger on the lever and tighten the screw until the lever just begins to move. Turn the screw a quarter-turn more and refit the tamperproof lock.
11. Adjust the throttle, kick-down and cruise-control cables (where applicable).

Injection-system trouble-shooting guide here - https://www.beemerlab.org/2020/12/bmw-bosch-fuel-injection-system-trouble.html

Bosch L-Jetronic injection-system overview / diagram here - https://www.beemerlab.org/2019/11/e30e28e34-bosch-l-jetronic-fuel.html

BMW UK Advertising Poster / Placard 1980 - M1, E21 320/6 + 6-cylinder engines

Nice 1980 placard from BMW UK advertising their family of 6-cylinder engines, from the later E21 320 to the M1's M88 and explaining the benefits of the. "Six cylinders where you'd expect to find four." in the compact 3-Series and "Six cylinders where you'd expect to find twelve." in the case of the supercar M1.

   BMW's dedication the six cylinder engine is not a recent phenomenon.

   It goes right back to BMW's original as a specialist engine-maker, rather than a car manufacturer.

   In fact, the first engines we ever built were six cylinder aircraft engines.

   Later, in the 1950's when conspicuous consumption was almost a status symbol, BMW preferred to stay with efficiency rather than extravagance and launched a six cylinder luxury car.

   Today, in the BMW 320, a car that's scarcely more than 14ft long, theres a sophisticated six cylinder power unit.

   And the BMW M1 on the right also needs no more than six cylinders. Even though in its most developed form, the engine can actually produce 800 bhp.

   It's not a blind dedication to six that makes us refuse the false economy of a four in the case of the 320. Or the wanton extravagence of a 12 in the case of the M1.

   Rather, we take our guidance from the laws of physics.

   According to those laws, it is not possible to build an engine that's perfectly balanced with less than six cylinders arranged in-line.

   Anything else, is a compromise that may help a car manufacturer balance its books. But won't help it balance its engines.

   Which is why every engine BMW make that's two litres or larger, is an in-line sic cylinder engine.

   Fortunately, there's no need for you to understand the laws of physics to discover the difference this makes.

   There's not a trace of roughness as you cruise. Or rawness as you accelerate.

   There's a smooth immediacy which motoring journalists normally describe as "turbine-like".

   And there's a flexibility which makes driving in traffic almost a pleasure. For with 85% of maximum torque at a mere 1900rpm you get a responsiveness in fourth gear that you might normally expect only in second gear.

   The BMW 320 costs £6,790.

   Which is scarcely more than cars whose manufacturers have chosen to compromise on their engines.

   And if they're prepared to compromise on the most important part of a car, where will those compromises stop?

BMW Front Outline / Silhouette Gallery - All Models

Another great chart of BMW front-end outlines detailing almost every model, or at least every major model release, right from the word go... which one is yours??

1936 328		1952 501		1955 ISETTA 250		1956 507 ROADSTER
1962 1500		1965 3200CS		1968 2002 Tii		1973 3.0CSL E9
1975 316 E21		1978 M1 E26		1978 M535i E12		1986 M3 E30
1988 M5 E28		1989 8 SERIES E31		1992 M3 E36		1996 Z2 E36/7
1998 M5 E39		1999 Z8 ROADSTER		2000 M3 E46		2002 Z4
2004 6 SERIES E63/64		2007 M3 E90		2007 X5 E70		2011 1 SERIES M COUPE
2011 M5 F10		2014 i3		2014 M4 COUPE F82		2015 i8

BMW M10 Engine Family Tree

Interesting press release from BMW showing some derivatives of the much-loved 4-cylinder M10 engine, which I have covered in much detail before.

"With half the cylinders and half the power of todays V8 M3, the original 1986 car remains one of our all-time favourites. Its seemingly indestructible four-cylinder iron block, however, goes back to 1962 and the BMW 1500. This was also the block that formed the basis of the 1.5-litre turbo F1 engines that powered Brabham to many a race victory. That's not just the block type -- BMW Motorsport used actual 1500 blocks sourced from scrapyards, because the older the block, the fewer stresses remaining in it. Never has a production engine family been more versatile."

BMW E21 / E30 323i Engine Comparison [M20b23 2316cc]

Here's another quick engine comparison, this time the E21 and original E30 flagship models, the 323i. BMW introduced the E30 323i in 1983 using the same M20b23 2316cc injected 6-cylinder motor as the E21 had in its top model since 1977 and displacement was not increased until the better known 325i emerged in 1985. Even with sightly more weight, the E30 323i was still billed as a quicker car than its predecessor, but I have no idea what improvements were made to the engine, so lets see how the specs stack up:

M20 Engine	323i [E21]		323i [E30 <1987]
Bore	80.0mm (3.15")		80.0mm (3.15")
Stroke	76.8mm (3.02")		76.8mm (3.02")
Capacity	2316cc (141.3 cu in)		2316cc (141.3 cu in)
Comp. ratio	9.5 : 1		9.8 : 1
Power (BHP)	141 @ 5800rpm		148 @ 6000rpm
Power (PS)	142.8 @ 5800rpm		150.0 @ 6000rpm
Power (KW)	105 @ 5800rpm		110 @ 6000rpm
Torque (Lbs ft)	140 @ 4600rpm		151 @ 4000rpm
Torque (Nm)	190 @ 4600rpm		205 @ 4000rpm

A little more compression, along with a few extra horse power and a slightly higher redline make for a harder pulling engine in the high rev range, but the big difference seems to be in the torque figures. Not only does the E30 323i have a bit more, but peak-torque is delivered 600rpm lower down than the older engine and that is clearly what makes the E30 feel quicker.

BMW 1990cc [2L] Engines 4 and 6 Cylinder Comparison - M10b20 and M60/M20 [E21 320, 320i, E12]

Up to 1977 BMW used 4-cylinder engines for its original 320 and 520 models, evolving from the trusty M10 used in the 2002. After 1977 they began to use freer-revving 6-cylinder engines for all the 2 litre models, the M60 and after 1981 the M20, both still using the same 1990cc, the latter of which has evolved into all the modern BMW straight sixes we know today. The 2 litre four pot is still a very sought after power-plant though, with its light weight and torquey character making for a more responsive front-end, particularly in the smaller chassis models.

I have wanted to compare the specs of these two engines side by side for a while now to see how the bore/stroke and power outputs stack up, so here goes:

CARBURETTOR:

	M10 4-cyl.		M60/M20 6-cyl.
Bore	89.0mm (3.504")		80.0mm (3.15")
Stroke	80.0mm (3.15")		66.0mm (2.60")
Capacity	1990cc (121.4 cu in)		1990cc (121.4 cu in)
Comp. ratio	8.1 : 1		9.2 : 1
Power (BHP)	109 @ 5800rpm		120 @ 6000rpm
Power (PS)	110.5 @ 5800rpm		122.4 @ 6000rpm
Power (KW)	82.5 @ 5800rpm		90 @ 6000rpm
Torque (Lbs ft)	115.7 @ 3700rpm		118 @ 4000rpm
Torque (Nm)	157 @ 3700rpm		160 @ 4000rpm

The 6-cylinder looks to be the faster motor, making a good 10 bhp more, with the shorter stroke and higher compression ratio no doubt making for a peppier drive. However, with its longer stroke and bigger pistons, the 4-cylinder still makes very similar torque, so unless you are screaming it all the time, the lighter engine might still make a more balanced drive under normal use.

INJECTION:

	M10 4-cyl.		M60/M20 6-cyl.
Bore	89.0mm (3.504")		80.0mm (3.15")
Stroke	80.0mm (3.15")		66.0mm (2.60")
Capacity	1990cc (121.4 cu in)		1990cc (121.4 cu in)
Comp. ratio	9.3 : 1		9.8 : 1
Power (BHP)	125 @ 5700rpm		123 @ 5800rpm
Power (PS)	126.8 @ 5700rpm		125.1 @ 5800rpm
Power (KW)	94.6 @ 5700rpm		92 @ 5800rpm
Torque (Lbs ft)	126.6 @ 4350rpm		122 @ 4500rpm
Torque (Nm)	172 @ 4350rpm		165 @ 4500rpm

The injected engines are a different story, with the compression ratio of the M10 not too far behind the 6-cylinder and both making the same power, though I would say the M20 is going to pull harder and smoother as you get up the revs and, ultimately have a higher redline. On the other hand, the 4-cylinder actually seems to be giving a bit more torque this time, obviously the higher compression and bigger bore contribute to this and it is all produced lower down the rev range. This could be why I have heard M10 enthusiasts saying it is more torquey, but either way it stands to reason that the lighter, more responsive handling and low-end grunt makes the 4-cylinder a better choice for round-town driving or even short-track racing.

I actually owned one of the rare 1990cc 4-cylinder M10 engines in 2012, having been given it with the '83 E21 316 I bought. The previous owner had intended to build it up and drop it into the E21, but never got round to the project and I decided not to pursue it given that the M10b18 1.8 litre unit was plenty quick enough for the car fitted with a twin-choke Weber carb, so I sold the 2 litre lump in bits, missing suitable con-rods, for £350!

More 1977 engine changes included the 1.6 litre engine used in the E21 316 now badged as the 315. The 316 now received a restricted-power version of the 1.8 litre M10 engine and a new model, the 318, was given a hotter version of the same engine. The 316 dropped back to 1.6 litres for economies sake with the newer M4x series of engines in the late E30 and E36.

E21/E12/E28: Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Injection System Diagram / Explanation

Two types of fuel injection system are fitted. E21 3er 323i models are equipped with the Bosch K-Jetronic system, whereas E30 3er 320i and 325i models are fitted with the Bosch L-Jetronic system. This article covers K-Jetronic injection for E21 models, also injected E12 and early E28 5er. For L-Jetronic in E30 models, also later injected E28 5er, see THIS ARTICLE.

K-Jetronic Operation:
Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by an electrically-operated pump and is then fed, via a pressure reservoir and filter unit, to the fuel distributor-unit. The fuel is then pumped direct to the fuel injectors which are located near the inlet valves, but mounted in four induction-manifold branches. The system is continuous acting type and the amount of fuel admitted to the injectors, by the fuel distributor, is governed by a pivoting baffle-plate mounted in the air-intake. Air drawn into the engine lifts the baffle-plate and this action moves a metering shuffle-valve in the fuel distributor. The ratio of air to fuel is thus controlled to a fine degree. After the mixture is drawn into the cylinder, the normal four-stroke combustion cycle takes place.

The fuel is maintained at a constant pressure by a pressure-regulator incorporated into the fuel distributor-unit, excess fuel being diverted through a return-line back to the fuel tank.

For cold starting, a solenoid valve injects fuel into the air-intake for a period determined by the coolant temperature. In addition, a temperature sensitive (warm-up) regulator, working in conjunction with an additional air slide-valve, is connected to the fuel distributor-unit and has the effect of increasing the amount of fuel delivered by the injectors. Later models are fitted with a throttle bypass-valve in place of the additional air slide-valve. On some specific versions this valve is coolant-heated.

A normal type throttle butterfly-valve, mounted between the baffle-plate and the cylinders, is connected to the accelerator pedal linkage. These constant flow injection systems work in a similar manner to a carburettor, vaporising fuel in the inlet-manifold and metering it into the engine.

E30/E28/E34: Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection System Diagram / Explanation

Two types of fuel injection system are fitted. E21 3er 323i models are equipped with the Bosch K-Jetronic system, whereas E30 3er 320i and 325i models are fitted with the Bosch L-Jetronic system. This article covers L-Jetronic injection for E30 models, also later injected E28 and early E34 5er  For K-Jetronic in E21 models, also injected E12 and early E28 5er, see THIS ARTICLE.

K-Jetronic Operation:
In fuel injection systems of Bosch L-Jetronic type, the volume of air drawn in by the engine is measured.

Each cylinder has its own independent injector.

An additional air slide-valve bypasses the throttle butterfly stub pipe and controls the additional air volume required when the air is still cold. When the engine is warm, idle speed airflow control is by means of another bypass around the throttle butterfly.

Fuel supply and pressure is provided by an electric pump with an inline filter and pressure regulator.

The volume of air drawn into the engine is measured by the air flow meter and this is converted into an electric impulse and transmitted to the control unit. A calculation is made to determine the quantity of fuel to be injected (based upon the engine running speed) into each cylinder.

Automatic cold-start and warm up devices are incorporated into the system with corrections made to the amount of fuel delivered for idle-speed and full-load by contacts in the throttle butterfly switch. When the engine is on the overrun and throttle is closed, due delivery is shut off completely.

The electronic control unit processes information from the various engine sensors and sends an impulse to the electromagnetic fuel injectors, telling them to open for a precisely defined period and deliver a set amount of fuel for each ignition. This is how most modern fuel-injection systems (with the exception of direct-injection systems) work.

E21: Steering Wheel Retrofit Guide

I got asked on eBay UK if my E21 steering wheel would actually fit an E30, which it turns out they don't. The wheel was then snapped up by someone with an early '70s 2002, but only after I could convince them it would fit...

It's not straight forward, so to clarify...

Later E30/E36/E46 3-Ser / E28/E34/E39 5-Ser / E24 6-Ser Etc. Steering-Wheel to E21 + other Classic BMW:

To fit later model steering-wheels with the modern spline to your E21 or other pre-'82 BMW, then you will need a steering 'boss' adapter, which bolts to the steering-column and usually has multiple sets of bolt-holes to accept any after-market steering-wheel. Some may only have holes to fit the brand of steering-wheel that make the hub, such as the MOMO one, here for about £60, but could be easily adapted to fit whatever wheel you have. Getting a universal one is harder, sites like meanmachines.biz claim to have ones here for £25 that fit, but they may need adapting to go on the E21.

Earlier E6 [1602/2002] / E12 5-Ser Steering-Wheel to E21:

Not sure why you want the thin, bendy rim of the older model steering-wheels to noon your E21 around, but they are a straight fit and require no modification to the wheel or dash/trim. The horn contact ring at the back needs modifying to work - refer to step 3 of the guide below.


E21 Steering-Wheel to E6 [1602/2002] and E12 5-Ser:

This is a common mod and it makes sense to upgrade 60s and 70s BMWs with the old-style steering wheels to E21 types - they're newer in design, better to use and safer in an accident. E21 wheels are a straight fit to the spline, but some cutting it required to the dash or back of the wheel to get it to fit. The horn button-contact at the back also needs modification.The definitive guide on tidily retrofitting E21 wheels to 2002 etc. is on the 'Bay Area '02' club site- http://www.bayarea02.com/techtips/320_wheel/index.html

The are highlights taken from the bayarea02 guide:
Spline Fitment:
If you place the 320i 4-spoke steering wheel onto the '02 steering column, you'll find that the bottom portion of the steering wheel interferes with the padding on the steering column by about a 1/4 inch. Grab a sharp utility knife and carefully trim away the bottom of the steering wheel, or install some sort of 1/4-inch thick spacer between the steering wheel and the steering column.

If you choose the spacer approach, you have to make your own spacer, as commercial flat washers are too large. The spacer needs to have an inner diameter of about 5/8 inch and can be no larger than 1 inch. When I installed a 320is steering wheel into my '02, I made the spacer out of a piece of 1/8-inch diameter aluminum rod and bent it into a ring using one of the sockets from my toolbox as a mandrel.

One cautionary note about the use of a spacer: The lock nut might not grip the shaft threads if the spacer is too thick. Losing a steering wheel in mid-apex is BAD!

Horn Buttons:

Take a sharp utility knife, and make a radial cut completely through the brass ring on the 320i steering wheel. Once the ring is split, use pliers to carefully bend up one end of the ring high enough to form a cantilever leaf spring. Then bend the tip of the ring over to form a smooth contact surface for the steering column.

This method works well with the standard 4-spoke 320i steering wheel because there is little, if any, access to the internal wires going to the horn buttons.

The classic BMW parts market is a lucrative one, as I will detail my own exploits in another post. I assumed E30 steering-wheels where fair game for the E21 and at the time I listed mine the going rate for an E30 foam-plastic wheel was £30. I got £50 for my original E21 wheel, but I wonder if I could have got more. Due to the scarcity of E21s, I would estimate the value of the basic 4-spoke steering-wheels at minimum £50. The 3-spoke 'sport' wheel in foam-plastic is even more sought after and should fetch up to £100 in good condition and at least £100 for a leather-bound one. The wheel fitted to me E21 was a period AC Schnitzer 3-spoke leather wheel with a removable centre. The boss-adapter and condition of the wheel led me to believe this had been pulled from an E30, though I've never seen another like it and wish I'd put the original one back on to sell the car.

E21: Seat Fitment Guide:

Swapping seats round in a BMW E21 3-series is a nightmare, thanks to the floor-mounts being two different heights. To fit level-based seats from another car requires chopping out the welded floor-mounts and once this is done there is no going back.

1. Check if your floor-mounts have been chopped:

Check the outer floor-mounts on either side, spot-welded in place just inside the door-sill. They should look the one in the left photo below.

If they don't, and they look more like the right photo [with or without the wood], then you have chopped mounts and seats not originally from an E21. You also won't be going back to E21 seats very easily, so to preserve the style and make the ride a lot better, throw in seats from a newer BMW.

2.1 Fitting stock BMW seats from E30, E36 etc. :

This makes sense. E21 seats are sprung and uncomfortable and were dropped in almost every succeeding model. Other BMW seats are easier to come by and cheaper. E30 seats preserve the look almost identically and are far superior in construct. They also fit the inner seat mounts on the E21, the ones against the trans.-tunnel, so only the only outer ones need adapting. I am sure this is the case with seats from other 80s BMWs, possibly the E36 and E46 as I've seen it done, but need confirmation.
Modifying the outer floor-mounts, the ones against the door sills, is impossible as they just sit that much higher than the inner ones, the E21 of course having a crazy odd-height sub-frame design, so they need cutting out. Putting in new ones is pretty straight forward though, you can fabricate them with steel or alloy C-channel, wooden blocks, improvised stilts - these are all popular methods. Tilt-forward seats don't tend to be very strong anyway, so the new mounts don't have to be rock solid as long as they're bolted or welded securely to the floor-pan. Mine used the stock inner floor-mounts and a wooden block on the outer side to get the height - this presented no problem to the UK MOT (roadworthiness-test).

Check out my guide here: http://e21dub.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/e30-sports-seats-fitted.html

Or check out HSVTurbo's guide HERE [where I got my idea] in THIS THREAD on bimmerforums.

2.2 Fitting rigid Racing bucket-seats:

If you're building a track car then it's obviously best to keep things as stiff and secure as possible. The neatest and most weight-saving method is to cut some steel cross-beams to fit and weld them across the floor-pan, from the trans.-tunnel to the door-sill. This could be done with or without removing the outer floor-mount, but you will probably have to do this to get the seat low enough. Two cross-beams under each seat would probably be best, but it is most often done with just reasonably thick one.

More info. HERE on bimmerforums.

2.3 Fitting non-BMW stock seats (VW, Ford Recaro etc.) :

To get the right height and a central-position with stock seats from non-BMWs there is a lot of modification to the mounts - these seats will always have the bolt-holes in the wrong place. The tidiest way would probably be to weld in rigid cross-beams like in the above guide [2.2], otherwise you will need to fabricate custom mounts. [I used a combination of wood-block and steel cross-beam to fit Ford RS Recaros to mine in THIS POST].

Check out my guide here: http://e21dub.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/recaro-seat-base-adapter-finally-solved.html

3. Re-fitting stock E21 seats:

I have never seen anyone online do this. If you have level floor-mounts then I see no reason to switch back to E21 seats. All but the Recaros are uncomfortable, sprung nightmares. They give a truly bouncy and uncertain ride - only the most restoration mad would want it. The Recaros are super-rare and overpriced to fit the E21s mounts. E30 Recaros are a fraction of the price, have level mounts and are better anyway. If you are so desperate to restore your E21 dutifully, then I would consider it having cut floor-mounts a deal-breaker and to find one with stock seats, because the car will never be the same again.

There are 3 ways I see to achieve refitting stock seats:

1. Build custom outer mounts using a combination of the methods above, building them back up to the original and rather tall height for the stock seat-frames. [].

2. Locate a pair of original outer floor-mounts that have been cut out of another E21 and refit them to yours. These would first need to have been cut out carefully from the donor car and preserved by someone. Whether they would advertise them for sale is another matter, but asking on the forums can't hurt. Otherwise, you'll need to find someone with a scrap / breaking E21 and ask to neatly cut out its floor-mounts for a few quid. Either way, obtaining a useable pair is going to be tough.
Once you do though, they would just need to be measured up to where yours were cut off and welded into place. How neat a job you do will determine whether they fit or if it's unnoticeable.

3. Fabricate new outer mounts from the ground up out of steel and weld those in. I will endeavour to make a note of the dimensions of my cut one before passing it on and do a quick CAD design to fab-up a simple one.

**Also, I still have the passenger-side (N/S, Euro/US Driver-side) floor-mount [above], so if anyone wants it to try and weld back in message me! [Sadly, I cut the driver-side one out more severely and this is probably going to be the case if yours are chopped as it gives the wood or whatever more to grab on to.]

E21 316: Car sold...

Met up with Jake yesterday and did the deal. He was getting the train down on his own from Newcastle, so asked if we could meet him in Manchester with it to halve his train fare, which was fair does, it's only about 40 miles from us and was a good chance to see if the car was up for the Newcastle run before handing it over... 

Obviously it was and once I'd hit the M56 I was whipping past cars in the middle-lane with my Dad struggling to keep up in his Audi. Apart from getting a bit warm in the cabin, the engine was ticking along beautifully at about 3,400 revs @ 70mph and I did manage a few stints at 80mph @ around 4,000 rpm, but my right foot was quickly subdued at the sight of a steaming Volvo Amazon on the hard-shoulder - the stranded owner grimaced at me as the Bavarian stalwart roared past, but as we got into Manchester the car was just as sedate in the long traffic-light queues and turning a lot of heads! 

After such a charming run into the city-centre, public-transport showed its true colours and there was bedlam with the Trans-Pennine trains and Jake's arrival was delayed by about 40 minutes. After that the switchover went nice and smoothly, the car speaks for itself and I knew he was keen anyway,so we were back on the road home again in about half an hour with no haggling. I threw in the original 13" steel-wheels, the beige rear seats, the short SPAX springs and a few other bits and bobs including the black rear grille-panel. Jake is only 20 and has had a couple of slammed Mk1 Golfs, so he's well into the scene and I can tell the E21 has gone to the right place, where it will be equally coveted and, hopefully, seen out a bit more.

Of all my car projects, this one was by far the most popular. Bye bye little E21, you will be missed.

Last ever fill up. Took it into work up the motorway for a pre-run check and it was flying.  I threw the 16s on for the trip to Manchester and was expecting a bit of steering-wheel wobble with them not being balanced, but above 50mph the wheel became eerily calm and gave the best high-speed ride so far, even with those stretched tyres.

The highest speed (and most fuel in the tank!) since the day I brought it home from Surrey :)

Parked up in Picadilly station car park, where it drew quite a bit of attention. There were 2 parking-attenants in the place and both were suddenly drawn to it like a magnet, which was unnerving at first.

Timeless lines. Probably the only E21 out in the city that day and getting a lot of love from the Mancs.

The E21 shape just has to have deep-dish wheels - it's well worth the effort to get 9Js on the back.

Coombs of Guildford, endorsed by the Queen no less. Old Beemers famously outlive their dealerships, but I'm pleased to see Coombs is now Vines of Guildford, still a BMW specialist.

In the immortal words of Andy L. - "I do love a sticker". 

E21 316: Last week with the E21...

Quite a sad time this week as the car is now confirmed sold, but it's nice to see it will be going to an enthusiastic new owner, a lad called Jake from Newcastle ways. Quite ironic that the car doesn't leave leafy Surrey for 29 years, then in the subsequent two makes it's way through Liverpool (230 miles away) and then as far North as it practically can to 'Castle (another 175 miles)!

It will be very dearly missed, the handsome E21, not just for the sentimental reasons of it being the exact same age as me or the extent of work and restoration I carried out, but mainly because it is such an awesome car to behold. Time waits for no man and it would be even worse to see me SORN it, hide it away somewhere and let it fade away... it needs to be kept on the road so it can be enjoyed by both the driver and the public. Like any BMW old or new, the thing just loves to be driven and gets better and more rewarding the more you do. It's also great that other people like the shark-nose classic (and in some cases, rare but gratifying, actually get the stance scene :D) and appreciate the work that's gone into the project.

E21 Dub Club has had over 12,000 hits and a heap of good feedback and I would like to thank everyone who has checked it out, not just those who gave props props on the motor, but for those who found it useful and have been helped or inspired with their own E21s... hats off to you. Finally, a big shout out to Clint Warburton for his support - hope with all the space of the Ozzy outback you get to keep your E21 for the foreseeable future.

Never the less, a new project beckons, but sadly it's a bricks-and-mortar style project this time. That time has come again for me to flee the parents nest and give up my natty cars, though I'm sure another retro BMW will appear when the dust settles from this house!

Back in the car gallery at West Wal, where it's not been enough this winter....

Turning heads in Co-Op car park, Wallasey...

Built, not bought. Driven, not garaged. And simply stunning to boot,, even rocking the 15" Melber wheels...

Checking out the bad boy evil Angel Eyes in the tailgate of this Mini. The poor girl must have wondered what I was doing taking photos... obviously she hadn't seen the eyes approaching and got out of the way - it was flying in the cold air!