Showing posts with label problem. Show all posts
Showing posts with label problem. Show all posts

Sunday, 6 December 2020

BMW Bosch Fuel Injection System Trouble-Shooting Guide

SYMPTOM:PROBABLE CAUSE:
No cold startFuel-pump fault or clogged fuel-filter
Additional air-valve not opening correctly
Start-valve not opening correctly
Leak in fuel system
Throttle-valve plate not opening correctly
Temp.-sensor fault
Diode-relay fault
Poor hot startAs above then:
Leaking / faulty injector
Heat/time switch fault
Poor idleBaffle-plate stop wrongly adjusted
Leak in Vacuum-system
Fuel-filter clogged
Mixture-adjustment incorrect
Backfire from engineWeak fuel mixture
Fuel pressure too low
Starter-valve leaking
Engine runs on after shut-offLeaking / faulty injector
Stiff/stuck baffle-plate
Stiff/stuck control-plunger
Excessive fuel consumptionControl pressure too low
Starter-valve leaking
Leak in fuel-system
Fuel mixture too rich
Heat/time switch fault
Idle-speed too highControl pressure incorrect
Additional air-valve stuck open
Baffle-plate stop wrongly adjusted

Detailed maintenance guide / diagrams in this post [L-Jetronic] - https://www.beemerlab.org/2020/03/bmw-bosch-l-jetronic-fuel-injection.html

Bosch K-Jetronic injection-system overview / diagram here - https://www.beemerlab.org/2019/11/e21e12e28-bosch-k-jetronic-fuel.html

Bosch L-Jetronic injection-system overview / diagram here - https://www.beemerlab.org/2019/11/e30e28e34-bosch-l-jetronic-fuel.html

Sunday, 24 May 2015

E60: New engine tune-up Part 4 - Waste-gate + Pressure-converter.

After the last tune-up [here] the stifled boost remained. Up to about 2000rpm the power was ok, but after that, when the real boost is expected to come in, it wouldn't. Rev and noise would rise with no acceleration. All that exhaust gas was just escaping through an open waste-gate, signified by a constant 'dump-valve' style hiss. At this point i really got my head around the vacuum-actuated turbo setup and tested the vacuum-tank [3 in diagram] and each hose individually for leaks, finding nothing. In a last ditch attempt to try and get the E60 boosting again I replaced both the waste-gate [with the slightly shinier one from my old turbo] and the electronic pressure-converter that controls it [1 in diagram].

This finally gave some results. Boost is now back and the long drawn-out hissing has gone, though there is still a short gap in between low and high boost. If you are rolling slowly in 2nd or 3rd gear and plant the throttle, the car surges forward then hesitates with a hiss for a moment before full boost comes in and the hiss stops abruptly, however this is only noticeable when accelerating in this way. A slower rate of acceleration gives an almost unnoticeable transition to the point where full boost can be applied and the car pulls away. This is also true when cruising a bit faster in 2nd or 3rd, where the waste-gate has had time to shut and full boost acceleration is instant. This to me suggests there is still a vacuum problem and I will have to re-check the hoses going under the steering to the engine-mounts, as they're the only bits I haven't been over a dozen times. The car is useable at full boost now, so I know the new engine is running as it should and capable of giving the power I was used to before the troubles, but pulling away fast in 2nd from traffic lights is a bit long-winded and I find myself changing up to 4th pretty sharpish before I feel confident enough to grill it. Really though, how often do I need to pull away fast without waiting in gear for a second before doing so? Perhaps I'm asking too much...

The next engine jobs will be focused on smoothing the rough idle, though in the meantime I threw in a mixture of Cataclean and Wynn's Injector Cleaner to see if that helped - half of each bottle added to 30 litres of diesel twice. I'm sure it did some good to the engine, but apart from making it a bit peppier for a couple of weeks there was no improvement to the idling situation. If the vacuum problem is not to blame then one or more injectors could be failing. There may even be a problem with the DDE controller, though this is extremely unlikely.


Next jobs:
  • Redo smooth-running measurement.
  • Replace / recode injectors if necessary.
  • Check oil on rocker-cover. Is it leaking from 10mm injector-studs to head?
  • Re-check all vacuum-tubing and replace where possible.

Future things to do / buy:
  • Rear ball-joints / ball-joint tool. [Advisory on last MOT].
  • Swap glow-plug module.
  • Intake manifold ring profile-gaskets.
  • Rubber rear exhaust-hanger.

Saturday, 17 September 2011

E39: Windscreen Washer-Jet System Problems



I've had a couple of minor faults with the windscreen/headlamp washer jet and they look like they could be common to most E39 models.


1. Disconnected/Broken Nozzle Hose:

Fault Finding: One washer-nozzle is not working at all / only emitting a tiny amount of water, while the other remains functional.

The hoses for the windscreen-washer run up the offside bonnet-hinge and along the back of the bonnet to reach the nozzels. Due to the constrictive nature of the plastic crimp-clips used to hold them in place, the hoses can be stressed while the bonnet is repeatedly opened and shut. This will most likely cause the plastic-connector to become unplugged from the nozzle [as with my car] so it's just a case of snapping the two connectors back together. The hoses could also be caused to split, so if the connectors are still in place then operate the system and check for leaks along the hose. You will probably need a replacement hose if it is split, unless it is near enough to the nozzle to chop off the split section and reseat it. If there is no leak then it is likely that the hose has been crimped shut, so check each plastic crimp-clip attaching it to the bodywork and adjust it so there's no restriction.

If you suspect you have this problem then check it over as soon as possible as there will be water/screenwash pouring down the back of the engine every time you use the washer system!!


2. Blocked / Faulty In-Tank Pump:

Fault finding: Both wash-jets are not emitting water, or emitting a small amount of water then stopping. No sound can be heard from the washer-jet pump, or the pump is very loud and appears to be struggling to get water through.

If there is no sound from the washers then, if the fuse hasn't blown, its likely the pump is dead and needs replacing. If the pump appears to be struggling but not pumping water then first unclip the hose at the join located under the bonnet, half way down the lip of the driver's wing and try the washers. If water isn't getting this far then a blocked hose/nozzle can be ruled out and the pump will need removing and replacing to unblock.