Saturday, 24 November 2018

BMW Tightening Torques [PDF]

Superb 136-page document from BMW showing the tightening torque for every different bolt / screw on your car. It covers generic torques for all BMWs, as well as model specific ones for petrol, diesel... even the V12.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1JGYWCqjPsqSTBWRGZYdFBLS3c



CONTENTS:
  • General Instructions
  • Engine
  • Engine Electrical
  • Fuel System
  • Radiator
  • Exhaust
  • Clutch
  • Transmissions and Drivetrain
  • General Electrical
  • Instruments
  • Equipment Accessories

GENERAL TORQUES:
M4 8.8 - 2.9 Nm
M4 10.9 - 4.1 Nm
M4 12.9 - 4.9 Nm
M8x1 8.8 - 26 Nm
M8x1 10.9 - 36 Nm
M8x1 12.9 - 44 Nm
M14 8.8 - 130 Nm
M14 10.9 - 180 Nm
M14 12.9 - 220 Nm
M5 8.8 - 5.9 Nm
M5 10.9 - 8.3 Nm
M5 12.9 - 10.0 Nm
M10 8.8 - 47 Nm
M10 10.9 - 66 Nm
M10 12.9 - 79 Nm
M14x1.5 8.8 - 143 Nm
M14x1.5 10.9 - 200 Nm
M14x1.5 12.9 - 240 Nm
M6 8.8 - 9.9 Nm
M6 10.9 - 14.0 Nm
M6 12.9 - 16.5 Nm
M10x1 8.8 - 54 Nm
M10x1 10.9 - 75 Nm
M10x1 12.9 - 91 Nm
M16 8.8 - 200 Nm
M16 10.9 - 280 Nm
M16 12.9 - 340 Nm
M7 8.8 - 14.8 Nm
M7 10.9 - 21.3 Nm
M7 12.9 - 25.5 Nm
M12 8.8 - 82 Nm
M12 10.9 - 115 Nm
M12 12.9 - 140 Nm
M16x1.5 8.8 - 216 Nm
M16x1.5 10.9 - 303 Nm
M16x1.5 12.9 - 364 Nm
M8 8.8 - 24 Nm
M8 10.9 - 34 Nm
M8 12.9 - 40 Nm
M12x1.5 8.8 - 87 Nm
M12x1.5 10.9 - 123 Nm
M12x1.5 12.9 - 147 Nm
M18 8.8 - 280 Nm
M18 10.9 - 390 Nm
M18 12.9 - 470 Nm
M18x1.5 8.8 - 313 Nm
M18x1.5 10.9 - 440 Nm
M18x1.5 12.9 - 527 Nm

Thursday, 22 November 2018

BMW BUS System Troubleshooting

Interesting and highly informative BMW training manual on troubleshooting the BUS system fitted to cars built from the late '90s through the 2000s. Detailed guides on design, diagnosis and repair of the original BMW CAN-BUS systems.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vIxKdCSqhcQqEKfE_VTRVw7PWJuP6rNE


BMW BUS SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING:

1. Introduction

2. Definitions

3. Controller Area Network (CAN bus):

  • Introduction
  • CAN bus topology
  • Troubleshooting the CAN bus
4. Diagnosis Bus (D-bus):
  • Introduction
  • D-bus topology
  • Troubleshooting the D-bus
5. Information and Body Bus:
  • Introduction
  • I/K bus topology
  • Troubleshooting the I/K bus
6. Peripheral Bus (P-bus):
  • Introduction
  • P-bus topology
  • Troubleshooting the P-bus
7. Motor Bus (M-bus):
  • Introduction
  • M-bus topology
  • Troubleshooting the M-bus
8. Review Questions


All models using Bus System from model year 1991 onwards.

This module discusses:
  • Advantages of using bus systems in a vehicle.
  • Various bus systems used in most BMW vehicles.
  • Operating principles of a serial bus.
  • Methods of troubleshooting bus lines using the diagnosis program.
  • Distinguishing a correctly operating bus line on an oscilloscope.
Have fun!

Sunday, 11 November 2018

Modify BMW USB-OBD Cable for 2005 and Later Cars

If you have an older USB-OBD diagnostic cable that works with BMWs up to 2005 [DIS v44 etc.] then it will need modifying to use with later cars and version of DIS / INPA etc. The process it pretty easy.

1. Remove the four screws from the OBD section of the cable using a crosshead-screwdriver.

2. The case will likely be glued together, so pry it open with a flat-screwdriver and remove the circuit-board.

3. Locate pins 7 and 8 on the back of the OBD-plug itself, which you will find bridged by a blob of solder. [Usually the right-side two pins looking at the face of the board with the LED on.]


4. Use a soldering iron to melt the solder between the two pins so they are no longer linked. [A solder-sucking device is useful here, but it can be pulled off onto the soldering-iron quite easily.]


5. Re-assemble circuit-board in casing and replace screws.

The cable will now work 2005 and later BMW cars, including newer models for all diagnostics using this interface, inc. DIS v55, v57, INPA 6.4.3 etc.

The cable will no longer work with BMWs made before 2005 and DIS v44, so it might be worth getting a spare cable to de-solder. The ideal solution is to solder small wires to each pin that run off to a switch mounted in the edge of the casing. cn555ic has done a very good guide on how to do this on E90post.com - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672940.


Sunday, 4 November 2018

DIS v57 + INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 Installation + Guide

Download Links [MediaFire]:

BMW INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 + Install Files etc. [1.1GB]

BMW DIS v57 / SSS v32 Installer Files [6.7GB]

**You will need BOTH parts to fully install DIS v57**

You will need a laptop with USB running Windows XP or Windows 7.

You will need a USB-OBD cable optimised for post-2005 BMWs. An older cable can be modified by removing the solder-bridge between OBD pins 7 and 8 - a guide is here.

GUIDE:

Unpacking Files:
  • Unpack the 2 .rar files into a new folder.
  • Where the contained instruction file mentions unpacking files from CD1 and CD2, all the .rar files for both CDs are contained in the one 6.7GB download.  
Installation:
  • If upgrading from DIS v44, install the files into the same folder and overwrite existing files.
  • The instructions cover Windows XP, but files for Windows 7 and 64-bit, along with instructions for that are provided in a folder marked OTHER.
Further installation and troubleshooting instructions [getting the virtual machine / network bridge / ports etc. working] can be found in my prior DIS v44 guide: HERE.


Sunday, 25 February 2018

BMW F10/F11: Clogged/blocked Washer Pump Filter - EASY FIX / FILTER REMOVAL! [E90/E92/F07/F30 etc.]

Windscreen washer jets not working, but the pump can still be heard OK? Then you have a very common case of clogged filter. Due to the supposed inaccessibility of the bottle on later model BMWs I have read stories of high dealer bills, daunting inner-wing removal and even back-feeding the washer-hose with bleach to gradually unblock the gunged up filter... but before you try this read on, as it is an easy fix after all.

GUIDE:

1. Fully turn the steering to the right to give access behind the driver's front wheel to work. [Removing the wheel will give more access but is not necessary.]

2. Remove the 6 screws holding securing the rear half of the felt wheel-arch liner in place using an 8mm socket. This will allow access without removing the arch-liner completely. Four of the screws are located in the wheel well itself and two are located underneath next to the sill.

3. Remove the plastic 'mud-guard' trim on the outside of the wheel-arch that adjoins the felt arch-liner. This is done by pressing the centre-pin of the 3 plastic clips through the clip and then removing the clips with a panel-popper tool. [It may be possible to do the job without removing this trim piece, as the clips are very hard to get out and prone to breaking, but visibility and access are certainly improved].

4. Peel the felt wheel-arch liner out from the rear lip of the wheel-arch and if possible tuck it behind the wheel. The washer-bottle should now be visible to the rear of the front wheel. It sits in a tight gap between the outer and inner wings of the car body itself and access is very limited. [This is unlike E39, E60 etc. where the bottle sits left-to-right across the rear of the wheel-arch and access if much easier!]

5. Remove the windscreen washer hose from where it enters the pump and move it out of the way.


6. Slide a long flat-screwdriver in between the washer-bottle and the outer wing and prize the pump upwards until the spout is clear of the bottle and the pump can wedged up and out of the way.


7. The clogged filter should now be sitting in the washer-bottle where the spout of the pump fits. Use the flat-screwdriver to prize the filter up and out of the bottle. It should now be removable by hand or using long-nose pliers / tweezers.


8. Clean the gauze filter using water and lightly brush it with a sponge-scourer or stiff brush. [I find an old toothbrush works perfectly.] It is likely clogged with a 'gel' like substance that builds up supposedly due to the use of incorrect washer-fluid as well as dirt from the bottom of the tank if the washer has been run without fluid in for a while, but should clean up pretty easily.



9. Carefully slot the filter back into the washer-bottle and press it back into place using long-nose pliers / flat screwdriver or both, making sure it is fully seated.

10. Slide the pump spout back into the filter / washer-bottle, making sure it is fully seated and rotated to the correct position with the spout for the windscreen-hose pointing to the side of the car.

11. Refit the washer-hose, trim, wheel-arch liner and wheel. [Reverse steps 1-5.]


www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=930107
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737416
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/120732-f10-windscreen-washer-not-working/
http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/124943-f10-washer-problems/

Tuesday, 19 September 2017

F10/F11: Seat Fitment Guide - Differences between 10-13 cars and later models.

In 2013 BMW changed the floor-pan layout of the F10 5 Series to accommodate X-Drive, Hyrbid-Drive and stuff, which in turn makes the fitment of the front seat mounts different for post-facelift cars. I see a number of F10 guys upgrading to M-sports and a few having this problem, offering seats for newer models to swap for the older type, so if you're about to do the same make sure the seats you get are for your corresponding pre or post-facelift F10. [I was upgrading my stock cloth interior to standard SE leather on the other hand, my car being the only example I've found so far with cloth from factory. A 530d as well, very rare.]

This is the same for M-Sport and Comfort/SE seats of all specs.

This is the same for LCI and non-LCI models.

FRONT SEATS:

These are NOT interchangeable between 2010 - 2013 cars and later 2013-2017 facelift cars.

This is the same for F10 and F11 Touring models.

M5 seats of correct model year variant will fit, but features like active corner-restraints are lost.

Front seats from E60 5-Ser and other model BMWs do NOT fit and would require adapting [see bottom].

RUNNERS:
The runners on pre-2013 seats are spaced significantly further apart than those from later cars, meaning a straight swap is impossible. It is possible to adapt the seats / floorpan to accept these seats, as I will discuss at the bottom of this page, but in reality forget it.

WIRING:
The wiring plug fits, but changes to the seats do not work with the safety-system. Active Head-restraints are removed on the post 2013 front seats and although this can be bypassed with the 2-ohm resistor trick to get rid of the error message, there may be another airbag related error coming up and it is unclear whether any of the safety systems in the seat will function properly. The seat-movement electrics all work as normal though.




If you don't know the model year of the seats you're buying then here is what to look for:

Control-levers - Pre-2013 seats have the classic handles built into the seat-surround trim with the white logos, whereas post-2013 seats have plain black handles sticking out from under the centre of the squab.



Head-rests - Pre-2013 seats have squarish split head-rests with a button on the side to extend half of it forward, whereas post-2013 seats have slimmer, one-piece head-rests with visible stitching on the front panel.


M-Sport - These are identifiable in the same way. However, the control-levers are similar to those from the E60 M-Sport seats, which will not fit. E60 seats have brackets on the runners that stick outwards and the head-rests are plain/round, as pictured, so make sure you don't end up buying a cheap set of those instead.




REAR SEATS:

Straight swap. These are totally interchangeable on all F10 models from 2010-17.

F10 rear seats will NOT fit the F11 Touring, however, as they have the split/folding back. [The shape of the seat is the same though, so it would not take much to adapt them to fit and give the F10 split/folding rear seats! This is something I would really love to try out in future.]


DOOR CARDS / TRIM:

The door cards are interchangeable between all F10 and F11 Touring models. Curtain-airbags are now in the seats, not the doors, so swapping the wire over is easy and does not differentiate between model specs, LCI etc. [NOTE: With F11 Touring, the rear door-cards do not have grilles for the door-speakers, so they will need swapping over from your original ones. This is something else I would love to try out - putting rear door speakers in there F10!]

Most of the dash and centre-console trim is a straight swap also. The only change to the post-2013 cars being the centre-console switch-panel - older ones having the ash-tray at the front and a poorly designed cup-holder in the centre by the E-brake. Later ones have a double cup-holder at the front and a smaller ash-tray / cubby-hole by the E-brake. These panels are interchangeable, as the console itself is the same, though I'm not sure why you would want to.


FRONT SEATS RETROFIT:

Adapting the floorpan or seats to fit the post-2013 seats is a possibility, though the level of effort required makes it a bit pointless. The first thing to consider is safety - will they stand up to a crash or even pass an MOT? The other things are the seat not quite being in the right position and the areas where the carpet doesn't match up will look ugly. If you're sick of waiting for the right seats to come along and the above things don't deter you then there are some possibilities, but I have not tried any of it out or would recommend it...

The bolt-hole spacing on the pre-13 seats is about 100mm wider left-to-right, but the spacing front-to-rear is the same on all models. This doesn't mean you can use the mounting points on one side and just adapt the other side to fit, as works with other BMWs, since the pre-13 bolt-holes are just too close to the sill / trans. tunnel. The difference in width is not central to the seat either [as in ~50mm equal either side], so adapting to fit is not going to be easy.

Adapting the Seats:
Making a one-piece adapter from thick sheet-steel would be best, similar to the ones that Sparco etc. make for other cars, that bolts to the floorpan and has more holes further inboard to bolt the seat to. These would be difficult to make without proper equipment, though an engineering firm will probably knock two up for cheap and with some black paint they would look OK.
Making one out of slim strips of box-section steel would also work, welded into a square or even just a left-to-right strip across the bolts front and rear. Either way, all the above methods will raise the seats slightly higher than usual, though lowering the seat fully might account for this.

Modifying the Floorpan:
New holes can be drilled at the correct positions in the floorpan and new nuts welded in their place to accept the seats. By the look of it, the floorpan has just enough room to accommodate this, but if not, the raised sections of floorpan with the captive-nuts for the seats could be cut out and welded back into place slightly further inboard. This sounds hairy, but would not actually be a huge undertaking, though you would seriously have to know what you were doing to get it right!