Showing posts with label thermostat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thermostat. Show all posts

Sunday, 1 March 2020

BMW M54 Engine Wiring Harness Diagram Illustration

Illustrated diagram showing the engine wiring-harness configuration on BMWs with the M54 6-cylinder petrol/gasoline engine family, showing connections to the Vanos, GCV, DISA Valve, etc.

“TIP: Ensure your CCV system is properly connected to the underside of the intake-manifold (and it is not damaged) before connecting all of these harnesses. It’s a huge pain trying to reach through all the wires to adjust or properly connect it.”

A different take on a wiring-harness diagram done in a hand-drawn artwork style, but useful none-the-less, so it had to get catalogued. Originally posted by u/feedthedonkey on the r/BMW Tech subReddit, who claims credit for the artwork.


Thursday, 17 October 2019

BMW Common Engine/Temp Error Codes / Fault Codes List 2773-279F [E46, E39 etc.]

2711-273F2740-27722773-279F27A0-27FF280A-29FF2A01-2CFF2D00-2FB7, CD87-CDAC,

2773 Tank-ventilation valve output stage bank2
2774 Monitoring cyc. failurestoring
2775 engine moment monitoring level 2
2776 Interface multifunction stearing wheel
2777 Monitoring controller function
2778 Switch clutch
2779 SG selftest RAM
277A Switch break
277B SG selftest ROM
277C SG selftest reset
277D Battery Voltage
277E Moment restrictor level 1
277F Crankshaft sensor
2780 Ref. marking generator
2781 Camshaft sensor inlet
2782 Camshaft sensor outlet
2783 Hot film air mass meter
2784 Thermostat diag. THM
2785 DK-Potentiometer
2786 Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
2787 Throttle-valve potentiometer 2
2788 Vehicle speed
2789 Bad way detection
278A Ambient temperature
278B Engine temperature
278C Intake air temperature
278D Temp. sensor coolant temperature
278E Diff. pressure sensor suction tube
278F LowRange signal not plausible
2790 transmission temp.
2791 Parts exchange without adaption
2792 Drosselklappe - Positionsüberwachung
2793 DK-Actuator regulator area
2794 DK-Actuator controlled
2795 Spring test DK-controller closing spring
2796 Throttle flap lower stop
2797 DK-Controller failure booster
2798 Throttle flap emergency air point
2799 Abort DV-adaption because of enviroment
279A Throttle flap adation - abort after
reteaching
279B Thermostat jammed
279C Control heater cooler
279D Control engine fan
279E Output exhaust flap
279F Output fanA

Sunday, 28 July 2019

E46 318i - Broken Coolant Hose! [11537572158]

 After about 650 miles in the E46 Touring the radiator light came on. Just the amber warning, to let me know it was getting low, not the red warning when it is running out and I refilled about 1.25 litres of water / coolant to the engine. This seemed about right to me, as I feared it may be using a bit of water and there was plenty in when I bought the car so 1.25L in 650 miles isn't catastrophic and can be lived with.
About two weeks later the radiator light came on again and I dutifully refilled 1.25 litres, but the car had only covered 120 miles so I knew something was now amiss, only for the light to come on yet again after just five miles of my six mile round trip to work. Under the hood with the engine running I could see a huge pool of water in the under-tray and a drip, which after much tracing turned out to be coming from a slim rubber hose that connects to the left side of the cylinder-head [N42 engine]. It was a constant drip, but when I wiggled the hose-end the coolant began to spray round the engine-bay, so here was the culprit. Turns out the hose-connector into the head was completely sheared off, as you can see in the pic, and should extend about half an inch into the housing. The only thing holding any water into the upper engine at all was a single M6 thread screw.

The hose in question was BMW Part No. 11537572158, shown in the diagram connecting the thermostat to the cylinder-head. This is a common fault I am told on N42 and N43 engines, along with several other coolant hoses that have plastic end connectors, particularly in the US where kits can be purchased to convert the brittle plastic ends to aluminium ones. This seemed unnecessary for me, given the cost of a replacement part and the age of the car.

As there are so many coolant hose variants, finding the right used OEM one on eBay and the like can be difficult, but they do pop up. I was able to get a new spurious part through work for just £18, but I'm sure commercial motor factors will not be much more expensive as long as they have stock. Spurious hoses tend to come with a new rubber O-ring fitted. BMW dealerships will charge a premium, but at least fitment is guaranteed and they are revised parts, though these may not come with the rubber O-ring which will also need to be ordered.

Monday, 15 September 2014

E36 316i Compact: chilling update...

Well, the new head gasket is on and the car is running like a bag of spanners. I think the slapdash chain refitment may have knocked the timing out slightly. I shall have to break out the Gunson timing gun kit I bought for the E21. Oh the joys of £200 Beemers...

The cooling issue appears to be sorted, though with the thermostat removed by the previous owner it's now running a tad on the cool side. I grilled the car the 2 miles to work this morning and could only muster a 1/4 from the temp. gauge. Ah well, a new stat can't be much. 


Wednesday, 10 September 2014

E36 316i Compact: New head-gasket.

Well, it's been a busy month again in Beemer Lab and I've just bought a new house which hasn't helped. Firstly, I finally removed the stuck head-bolts from the E60, got the head off and found where my oil leak is coming from... The lower timing case has a big crack in it! It's too big a job to replace that and do the new piston, so it looks like the 530d does need a new engine after all, what a shame after my £500+ spend.

As there is no E46 progress still, I decided a cheap runaround BMW was needed on a temporary basis so I shelled out a quick £200 on an X-reg E36 316i Compact, again in Titansilver. It has 4 months tax and 10 months MOT so seemed ideal as a stop gap. That was until I went to pick up a fridge and it majorly overheated. After I limped home I found oil in the water, water in the oil and a constant bubbling from the radiator. Blown head gasket then!

I had to use it for 2 weeks in this state, only doing the 2 mile trip to work and no further, but still it was getting to max temp as I pulled up on the drive. The gasket was only £18 off eBay and is FAI. The job only took about 4 hours (oh the joys of working with a single cam!) and it is back on the road and running quite cool so far, though I will need to put it through its paces to find out if it was just a dodgy gasket or if there is a real cooling problem that's caused it.

I will cover the poor E60 and it's future in more detail soon. Oh, and I've also bought a new secondary air-pump or the E46 so watch this space. 3 Beemers and counting...

£18 delivered. eBay FTW still.
By gosh, that looks like some hot oil.
The centre two head-bolts [1 and 2] were finger loose when removed!
This has obviously allowed oil and water to mingle. Blast marks round
the front cylinder show where combustion was stopping water entering the head.
This whole head-gasket swap took about 4 hours, so how
hastily the last one was thrown on is disturbing...
Lots of burnt oil and split gasket over the head, but it cleaned up well.
Think I will leave cleaning the cooling system for another day though. The head is caked with 'rad-weld' type stuff.
Amazingly, after all that overheating, the head is straight as anything! BMW alloy heads are forgiving to say the least.
10 minutes with a razor-blade and the block is good as new. PIston don't look half bad either.
New gasket on. The re-tightening sequence is 30nm, 90 degrees and
another 90 degrees. I wonder if the last guy to work on it only did
the 30nm and forgot about the torque angling?

Tuesday, 9 October 2012

E21 316: New Thermostat working well.

The coolant problems from this post [Coolant/Radiator Troubleshooting] have been truly rectified with the installation of this new thermostat.

The temp. gauge hasn't risen above halfway since, despite some hard and motorway driving, which is great, but the car seems to take a bit longer than before to reach normal temp. It could mean the thermostat is slightly the wrong temperature range, but both the one I removed and the new one are confirmed 80 CEL, so I think it's likely the car now has a more average heat up time and I'm just not used to it!

PROCESS:

BMW thermostat units are built into tube-housings so replacing them couldn't be simpler, simple pop the hose clamps off each pipe and it pulls straight out.

1. Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the jubilee-clip holding the lower hose in place on the thermostat, pull the hose clear and allow the coolant to drain from the engine into a container.

2. Loosen the jubilee clip to the top hose on the thermostat and pull the hose clear.

3. Loosen the jubilee clip to the hose on the nearside of the thermostat coming from the coolant-return and pull the thermostat unit clear of the hose.

4. Reverse the process with you're new thermostat.

5. Re-fill the radiator with 3.5-5 litres of coolant. ** It's probably best to back flush the engine and radiator while the hoses are off and the system is drained.