BMW Tightening Torques [PDF]

Superb 136-page document from BMW showing the tightening torque for every different bolt / screw on your car. It covers generic torques for all BMWs, as well as model specific ones for petrol, diesel... even the V12.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1JGYWCqjPsqSTBWRGZYdFBLS3c

CONTENTS:

• General Instructions
• Engine
• Engine Electrical
• Fuel System
• Radiator
• Exhaust
• Clutch
• Transmissions and Drivetrain
• General Electrical
• Instruments
• Equipment Accessories

GENERAL TORQUES:

M4 8.8 - 2.9 Nm M4 10.9 - 4.1 Nm M4 12.9 - 4.9 Nm	M8x1 8.8 - 26 Nm M8x1 10.9 - 36 Nm M8x1 12.9 - 44 Nm	M14 8.8 - 130 Nm M14 10.9 - 180 Nm M14 12.9 - 220 Nm
M5 8.8 - 5.9 Nm M5 10.9 - 8.3 Nm M5 12.9 - 10.0 Nm	M10 8.8 - 47 Nm M10 10.9 - 66 Nm M10 12.9 - 79 Nm	M14x1.5 8.8 - 143 Nm M14x1.5 10.9 - 200 Nm M14x1.5 12.9 - 240 Nm
M6 8.8 - 9.9 Nm M6 10.9 - 14.0 Nm M6 12.9 - 16.5 Nm	M10x1 8.8 - 54 Nm M10x1 10.9 - 75 Nm M10x1 12.9 - 91 Nm	M16 8.8 - 200 Nm M16 10.9 - 280 Nm M16 12.9 - 340 Nm
M7 8.8 - 14.8 Nm M7 10.9 - 21.3 Nm M7 12.9 - 25.5 Nm	M12 8.8 - 82 Nm M12 10.9 - 115 Nm M12 12.9 - 140 Nm	M16x1.5 8.8 - 216 Nm M16x1.5 10.9 - 303 Nm M16x1.5 12.9 - 364 Nm
M8 8.8 - 24 Nm M8 10.9 - 34 Nm M8 12.9 - 40 Nm	M12x1.5 8.8 - 87 Nm M12x1.5 10.9 - 123 Nm M12x1.5 12.9 - 147 Nm	M18 8.8 - 280 Nm M18 10.9 - 390 Nm M18 12.9 - 470 Nm
		M18x1.5 8.8 - 313 Nm M18x1.5 10.9 - 440 Nm M18x1.5 12.9 - 527 Nm

The Compact is up for sale!

With the E60 alive again and a new house project costing the earth, I can't justify keeping two Beemers on the road so the stalwart E36 Comp will have to go. It's been a great car for me while the 5er has ben off the road, so if the practicality doesn't draw buyers in, then the E46 Coupe arm-rest / centre-console sure will...

I've paid £15 to list it as a classified on eBay here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181669438132?ss

And also stuck it on Gumtree here - http://www.gumtree.com/p/bmw/2000-x-bmw-316i-compact-e36-/1100726371

It's your for £450 or near offer!

Advert text (being as honest as I can):

BMW 316i Compact. Titan silver, 164k miles. MOT until end of may, tax until end of April. Good solid reliable little car.
Blow from exhaust, nothing some putty can't fix and the passenger window does not open, but the glass just needs remounting to the regulator frame as it still works and can be heard going up and down without the glass. 
Brakes, chassis, suspension all good, as are all tyres. Bit tatty inside and out, but no major dents or damage at all, there are no rips or tears in the seats. It has the larger, later 1.9 engine from the E46 and is the later spec with front fog-lamps, traction-control and air-conditioning. It features the twin front arm-rest and centre-console from an E46 coupe.

E36 Compact: M43 Oil Change + Filter Removal.

Got round to changing the oil and filter on the Compact, as I've been running it for a month with the mayonnaise filled concoction left from the dodgy head-gasket / cooling issue.

Removing Oil-Filter:

The filter-housing on the later M43 316i / 318i is right down in the bowels of the engine and impossible to get to easily, as they are on almost all other BMWs. The lid has no nut either to undo it from above, so the only way is to use an old-skool oil-filter removal tool from the side, only most of the engine prevents this.

The simplest way to get it off is to remove the fan-cowl and fan. This way there is just about enough room at the front of the engine to get a turn on the filter with the removal tool. I found a chain based removal tool works well, but a steel-belt one would probably be just as good. It isn't essential, but I removed the top inlet-manifold too, just to see what I was doing more clearly.

1. Remove the fan-cowl by undoing the two top screws with a 10mm socket and lifting it off, popping it out from the air-inlet ducts at either side.

2. Remove the two 8mm screws holding either side of the rear edge of the fan-housing at the top and lift the fan vertically up, sliding it out of the two bottom lugs.

3. Slide the removal-tool in from the front and there should now be room enough to get a turn on the filter-housing lid, even if it's as tight on as mine was.

E36 316i Compact: New head-gasket.

Well, it's been a busy month again in Beemer Lab and I've just bought a new house which hasn't helped. Firstly, I finally removed the stuck head-bolts from the E60, got the head off and found where my oil leak is coming from... The lower timing case has a big crack in it! It's too big a job to replace that and do the new piston, so it looks like the 530d does need a new engine after all, what a shame after my £500+ spend.

As there is no E46 progress still, I decided a cheap runaround BMW was needed on a temporary basis so I shelled out a quick £200 on an X-reg E36 316i Compact, again in Titansilver. It has 4 months tax and 10 months MOT so seemed ideal as a stop gap. That was until I went to pick up a fridge and it majorly overheated. After I limped home I found oil in the water, water in the oil and a constant bubbling from the radiator. Blown head gasket then!

I had to use it for 2 weeks in this state, only doing the 2 mile trip to work and no further, but still it was getting to max temp as I pulled up on the drive. The gasket was only £18 off eBay and is FAI. The job only took about 4 hours (oh the joys of working with a single cam!) and it is back on the road and running quite cool so far, though I will need to put it through its paces to find out if it was just a dodgy gasket or if there is a real cooling problem that's caused it.

I will cover the poor E60 and it's future in more detail soon. Oh, and I've also bought a new secondary air-pump or the E46 so watch this space. 3 Beemers and counting...

£18 delivered. eBay FTW still.

By gosh, that looks like some hot oil.

The centre two head-bolts [1 and 2] were finger loose when removed!
This has obviously allowed oil and water to mingle. Blast marks round
the front cylinder show where combustion was stopping water entering the head.
This whole head-gasket swap took about 4 hours, so how
hastily the last one was thrown on is disturbing...

Lots of burnt oil and split gasket over the head, but it cleaned up well.

Think I will leave cleaning the cooling system for another day though. The head is caked with 'rad-weld' type stuff.

Amazingly, after all that overheating, the head is straight as anything! BMW alloy heads are forgiving to say the least.

10 minutes with a razor-blade and the block is good as new. PIston don't look half bad either.

New gasket on. The re-tightening sequence is 30nm, 90 degrees and
another 90 degrees. I wonder if the last guy to work on it only did
the 30nm and forgot about the torque angling?