|
Grainy pic of a quite heavily disguised BMW E30 3-Series test-mule undergoing tests in Germany circa-1980. The square headlights and covered up Hoffmeister-kink lend an interesting look to this concept, but the roofline and rear-end give it away.
Ironically, it isnt a far cry away from BMWs latest 'Neue Klasse' design language, with the forthcoming 3 seriesredesign and new electric models.
Did both of the rear struts and springs a few years ago, but find the right side one has broken right at the top and will need doing for this years MOT test. As usual with 5 Series models when the spring snaps at the top or bottom, there was no tell-tale clunking or change in driving characteristics, so who knows how long it's been like that. At least it is not a big job.
*GUIDE: F10 Rear Shock / Spring Replacement*
*GUIDE: F10/F11 Front Shock / Spring Replacement*
The rear struts were replaced several years ago from a car with 80k miles. Their combined run in both cars has still added up to less than the mileage on the original ones!
As you can see, the cast-alloy slave-cylinder does not have the same look of build quality that the OEM plastic one does. It lasted 5 years and only about 25k miles, but was still good value for the price!
*GUIDE: Clutch Slave-cylinder replacement and bleeding guide for E30 / E28 / early E34 and E34*
Yes, this is not sci-fi, but an actual option available to UK BMW buyers in the 80s. Driving to Europe in your E30? No problem, just fold the glove box down to reveal a left-hand dashboard, swap the steering-wheel over and off you go, all ready for continental motoring!
Belive it or not this was a common idea manufacturers were toying with back then, quite a few other marques producing concept cars with the feature, but I am surprised BMW actually built it. I doubt this was a common option and am not aware of any surviving examples.
If you're swapping seats round or retrofitting, then you will want to keep electric movement functions and may even want to retain the heated-seat feature or even safety restraints. Here's a guide to wire colours and the pin-outs on the multi-block plug.
5+6 - CAN data wires to CAS [ Green + Orange/Green]
7 - 12v Power Wire [Red, Red/Blue or Red/Brown, 3mm thickness]
8 - Main Ground Wire [Brown, 3mm thickness]
Seat Cushion Heating Power+ [Green/Violet or Blue/Violet]
Seat Cushion Heating Ground- [Brown or Brown/Orange, 1.5mm thickness]
Seat Cushion Temp. Sensor [Grey]
Seat Back Heating Power+ [Violet or Green/Violet]
Seat Back Heating Ground- [Brown, 1mm thickness]
…because the owner is about to have it repainted and I'd like to preserve its current awesomeness.
Pin Connection
1 ignition coil: t1
2 earth, ignition driver
3 pump relay driver: t85
4 ISCV switching: t1
5 CFSV switching: t1
6 tachometer
7 AFS signal: t2
8 CID signal: t2
9 unused
10 OS return: t4
11 unused
12 AFS supply: t3
13 diagnostic socket : t15
14 earth, injector driver
15 warning lamp (US only)
16 injector pulse, cyls 2 and 4
(model year 89: cyls 1 and 3)
17 injector pulse, cyls 1 and 3 (model year 89: cyls 2 and 4)
18 battery supply: t30
19 earth, main ECM and shield
20 unused
21 unused
22 unused
23 OS relay driver : t85
24 earth, output drivers other
than injector & ignition
25 unused
26 AFS return: t5
27 ignition switch: t15
28 OS signal: t3
29 VSS
30 unused
31 CID return: t1
32 fuel consumption meter
33 kick down prevent, AT
34 unused
35 unused
36 main relay driver: t85
37 nbv supply from main relay: t87
38 anti-theft system
39 diagnostic socket : t18
40 A/C pressure switch
41 A/C motor switch
42 AT drive selector
43 CO pot (AFS : t3)
44 ATS (AFS : t4)
45 CTS signal: t2
46 unused
47 CAS: t1
48 CAS return: t2
49 unused
50 unused
51 Ignition timing intervention (Electronic transmission control)
Note: temporarily switched on during AT downshifts
52 TPS idle contact : t1
53 TPS full-load contact : t3
54 unused
55 diagnostic socket : t20
