F10: Rear Shock Absorber / Strut / Spring Replacement [GUIDE]

*Front strut-assembly replacement guide here - https://www.beemerlab.org/2017/09/f10-530d-front-shock-strut-spring-top.html*

Time to do the rear struts and springs on the 530d F10 this week as one damper has been leaking and while doing my tyres last week I noticed the spring has now broken at the bottom so this is now an urgent job. I picked up a pair of used complete struts (spring, damper and top-mount) from eBay for just £100. They are from another 530d and claim to be from a low mileage car. Well, they look a lot lower mileage than the ones I'm taking off lets put it that way and appear to be in pretty good condition. I get a lot of stick for constantly using second-hand genuine parts, but I still prefer this to buying new spurious parts where I can and have never had an issue!

GUIDE:

* This is not a difficult or time-consuming job, but will require a bit of brute force. *

1. First the rear seats need to come out. Lift the seat squab up at the front and detach it from the push-studs, press the seat-belt receivers through the recesses and lift the squab out. Next lift the seat-back upwards until it is free of the hooks at the top and lift that out, being careful of the door-sill paintwork and sliding it through the seat-belts. [You could always unbolt the seat-belts at the base using a T45-Torx socket to make this easier, but it's not essential].

2. The parcel-shelf now needs to come down in order to access the strut-top mount bolts in the shock-turrets. Remove the C-pillar trims by prizing out the plastic caps labelled 'Airbag' from the trim and removing the screw using a T25-Torx socket. Now carefully pull away the C-pillar trims and put to one side. Remove the five push-pin clips from the front edge of the parcel-shelf by levering the button in the centre upwards and pulling the plastic pin out. The studs can now be levered out. The parcel-shelf is now free to pull forwards and can be rested where the seat-back would be. [Remove the wiring-connectors to the speakers, but these should pop out by themselves anyway].

3. Lift the car and remove the corresponding wheel. [There is no need to be getting under the car for this job, so a jack and axle-stand is fine].

4a. The track-strut (pictured) needs to be moved out of the way to access the bottom strut bolt so first remove the plastic clips holding the E-brake wire-harness to the track-strut by levering them open at the bottom with a flathead-screwdriver and separating them from the strut. The wire-harness can be moved out of the way.

4b. Remove the bolt holding the inner end of the track-strut using an 18mm wrench. Pull the track-strut down and rotate it so it is pointing out of the wheel-arch. You now have plenty of room to get at the bottom strut bolt and lift the shock out.

5. Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the hub using a 21mm wrench.

6. Lift the triangle flap in the foam underneath where the parcel-shelf was to expose the studs to the strut-top mount and remove the three nuts using a 13mm wrench.

7. Wiggle the bottom of the strut free from the hub and the entire strut assembly is now free to be removed. It should be able to be lowered through the remaining suspension parts and to the rear of the car until it is free to be removed.

** IF YOU ARE CHANGING THE SPRING / TOP-MOUNT OR SWAPPING THESE ONTO A NEW STRUT THEN DO THIS NOW** [See this post for guide].

8. Make sure the new strut has the top-mount in line with the old one you removed by lying them next to each other and checking the bottom bolt-eyelet and triangle marking on the top-mount match up. [The triangle marking on the top-mount should face towards the back of the car with the bolt-eyelet facing the centre, or with the triangle marking facing you the bolt-eyelet should be pointing to the right for O/S (right-side) and left for N/S (left-side)].

9. Lift the new strut back up through the suspension and line it up into the strut-turret. [Triangle marking on top-mount facing rear of car] and screw the three 13mm nuts back on a few threads.

10. Lever the hub downwards until it meets the bolt-eyelet at the bottom of the strut meets its recess on the hub and screw the 21mm bolt back in about half-way.

11. Fully tighten the three 13mm nuts on the strut-top mount.

12. Fully tighten the 21mm bolt through the bottom of the strut.

13. Replace the track-strut / wheel as a reversal of steps 3 and 4.

14. If you are doing both sides then repeat steps 3 - 13 for the opposite side.

15. Replace the parcel-shelf, trim and rear seat as a reversal of steps 1 and 2.

E46 318i: Front-of-cat o2 / Lambda sensor replacement [Fault Code 271D, 271A, 271B] [Rear-of-cat 271C, 271F]

E46 failed its MOT on the O/S rear tyre and O2 emissions too high. I duly replaced both rear tyres with a new pair sourced through work for just £23 each and they are V-rated so should be ok for the Touring. As for the O2 level being too high, I was told this was a fault with an O2 / Lambda sensor so I plugged in a Snap On Modis scanner to see if this was right.

The code I got back was 271D, as in pic above, which is the up-stream or 'front-of-cat' sensor heating. Codes 271A and 271B show fault at the same sensor, but are labelled directly 'front-ofcat-sensor' with no heating suffix. This sensor is located slightly forward of the catalytic-convert mounted about halfway down the car's underside, as in the diagram below. The one shown to the rear of the cat is the down-stream or 'rear-of-cat' sensor. Code 271C applies to this rear sensor, along with 271E for Rear O2 sensor-heating. The two sensors, though essentially the same, are different parts and part numbers due to the rear sensor having a longer wire. [List of emission based fault-codes here.]

I got hold of a used sensor taken from another E46 318i from www.marobmwspares.co.uk for £18. I prefer used OWM BMW parts that come with a warranty / guarantee over cheap spurious items. The least expensive spurious items start at about £20 for a sensor that can be used for either front or rear of cat, having a long wire than can be cut to length with two bare wire or universal wire-terminal ends that require the original plug to be soldered on from the broken sensor. On the other end of the spurious price range was Euro Car Parts, who offer an OEM-quality sensor for £68, which is pricey but comes with the correct wire-length and plug fitted.

My old sensor proved very tricky to remove with the car on fixed-ramps and I would not like to attempt it with jack and axle-stands. I was unable to crack the sensor off and unscrew it even with the use of special Lambda-sensor sockets and it began to round so I ended up booking ramp-time in the workshop of the company where I work and lifted the E46 Touring on a 2-post ramp to give loads of access underneath. To avoid the risk of breaking the Lambda-sockets or further rounding the sensor itself, I decided to cut about half of the sensor off using a 3.5" cutting-disc and used a 22mm deep impact-socket with a long breaker-bar to finally crack the sensor off. It was pretty seized on, but once cracked just unscrewed by hand. The replacement sensor screwed straight in and swapping / mounting the plug was easy to make for a 5-10-minute job once the car was positioned on the ramp legs.

RESULTS:

The emission test result went from 2.2, with a maximum of 2.0 allowed, down to just 1.0 with the faulty sensor replaced. There is also a significant drop in neat-petrol smell emitting from the rear of the car when it is started from cold, so I'm glad this problem showed itself and got fixed.

Article on /BMWTech subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/BmwTech/comments/d5v30t/271d_lambda_sensor_front_of_cat_which_one_there/

F10/F11: DPF Replacement / Removal - EASY GUIDE!

If you are removing your DPF and re-mapping, or if your filter is clogged past the point of a re-gen, then you will need take it off. Getting the DPF / catalytic-converter off an F10 is easier than it looks and is totally doable at home without a set of workshop ramps. I managed with a jack / axle-stand and without removing the exhaust or any of the engine.

1. Safely raise the car.

2. Under the car, remove the centre under-tray that covers the exhaust joint to the DPF by undoing a series of 8mm screws.

3. Loosen the collar-bolt at the joint between the front section of the exhaust and the flexi coming from the DPF using a 14mm socket.

4. Slide the exhaust back about an inch until it pops out of the sleeve in the DPF. [It may help here to pop the exhaust out of the centre rubber-hanger to give more rearward movement.]

5. Under the bonnet, unplug the two O2-sensors and the Lambda sensor, then pull the hose off the metal-tube that runs to the pressure-sensor. Free up the wiring.

6. Remove the upward-facing O2-sensor using a 14mm open-ended wrench.

** Access to the bolts and sensors may be easier with the plastic air-inlet loosened and moved out of the way. **

7. Loosen the collar-bolt joining the front of the DPF to the back of the turbo using a 13mm socket on a long extension and move the collar forward away from the DPF.

8. Remove the upper nut and lower bolt holding the bracket to the rear of the DPF using a 13mm wrench.

9. Remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the back of the engine-block using an E10 double-hex socket, or an 8mm ring-spanner and fully remove the bracket.

10. The DPF will likely be solid in place, so the best bet is to wiggle it from underneath car until it breaks free and can be safely lowered down.

11. With the DPF free, getting it out of the engine-bay is still not a walk in the park. The lower O2 sensor and/or Lambda sensor may need to be removed to get the angle required to slide the body of the DPF down past the steering-knuckle and foil heat shield, which may need to pressed in towards the body a bit to give enough clearance. Eventually, the DPF can be manipulated down through the gap and drop down under the car, so watch out if you have it raised a fair bit off the ground.

12. Re-fitting is a reverse of the above steps. Note, all but the lower O2-sensor should be fitted after the DPF is secured in position. The easiest way to reposition the DPF is get someone to hold it from below high enough for you to get hold of it from inside the engine-bay and lift it up into position, rather than one person trying to reposition it from underneath.

E60: Replacing Rear Rose-Bushes / Lower Ball-Joints

These are the main joint where the rear wheel-hubs attach to the trailing-arms and are a pretty common replacement on high mileage 5 and 7 series. They were the advisories I got on the MOT in February, so thought I should get them done before the nice weather ends.

DIFFICULTY - 6/10 This is not a long or complicated job, but is quite labour intensive.

** YOU WILL NEED: A dedicated removal / installation tool. These are available on eBay [here] for just under £40 and work for all modern 5, 6, 7, X5 and X6 rose-bushes. These are all copies of the BMW special tools listed here on TIS.

The rose-bush is item 2 in the diagram.

1. Lift car, remove rear wheel, support on axle-stand.

2. Unbolt the anti-roll bar link from the trailing-arm using an 18mm open/ring spanner on the nut from underneath, while holding the stud from turning using a T40 Torx socket through the centre of the spanner.

3. Loosen the long bolt that holds the trailing-arm to the wheel hub [5] using a 24mm wrench on the nut and an 18mm wrench on the bolt head. [A long breaker-bar is advisable on the nut.]

4. Loosen off the eccentric-bolt on the trailing-arm [11] using an 18mm wrench on the bolt head and a 21mm wrench on the nut. [Be careful not to turn the bolt and alter the alignment as it's hard to get back.]

5. Loosen off the other bolt on the trailing arm [9] using an 18mm wrench on both the nut and bolt head.

6. Fully remove the 24mm nut [6] and long bolt [5] from the wheel-hub. [The bolt will likely need knocking out with a drift.]

7. Remove the bolt holding the push-rod to the wheel-hub [7] using an 18mm wrench.

7a. (O/S trailing-arm only) - Disconnect the suspension-angle sensor from the trailing-arm using a 10mm wrench and 10mm open-end spanner.

8. Lever the trailing arm down so it is clear of the wheel-hub and the push-rod [4] can be removed.

9. Remove the retaining-ring [3] from the rear face of the rose-bush. [It will likely be well seized in place and need splitting with a grinder / cut-off tool before knocking out in two pieces.]

10. Set up the removal-tool either side of the rose-bush with the largest mandrel on the receiving side and the smallest mandrel on the pushing side, ensuring the pushing side is completely flush to the rose-bush face. [Some of the rose-bush rubber boot may need cutting off to ensure this.]

11. Tighten up the removal-tool using a 19mm wrench on either side until the bush pops out of the wheel-hub. [Rotating the receiving mandrel round so the notched area can be viewed from underneath shows the progress of the bush coming out.] [The bush may well need some heat treatment if it is seized, or you can have a go at splitting it if you are brave enough.]

12. Place the new rose-bush into the hub, ensuring it is straight to the collar and will go in evenly. [The bush always slots it from front to rear, with the retaining ring on the rear face.]

13. Set up the removal-tool on the new rose-bush with the largest mandrel on the receiving side again and the mid-sized mandrel on the pushing side. [The notched side of the receiving mandrel will need rotating so it fits flush past the back of the brake disc. This is essential to keep the threaded-bar / bush straight.]

14. Tighten up the removal-tool with two 19mm wrenches until the bush is fully seated in the collar. [The bush should slide in pretty easily, if it resists then it is not going in straight. A small amount of copper grease can be rubbed round the bush to aid it, but be very sparing.]

15. Fit the new retaining-ring to the rear face of the rose-bush.

16. Refit the push-rod and trailing arm etc. as a reversal of steps 8 to 1.

** For correct re-alignment of suspension geometry see this post. **

E60 Diesel: Replace Turbo Waste-Gate [Actuator]

This is a pretty easy job and can be done with removing the turbo, exhaust-manifold or rocker cover.

1. Remove the inlet duct to the air-filter housing. It's held by a T30-Torx screw at the front and just unclips from the housing.
2. Remove the boost-pipe from the top of the turbo by removing the screw from the left side of where it joins to the turbo using a 10mm wrench, then loosening the right hand screw using a T30-Torx socket and rotating the collar clockwise until it can be pulled out of the turbo.
3. Remove the other end of the boost-pipe from the left side of the intercooler by reaching from underneath with a flathead screwdriver and sliding the metal clip down. The pipe should pop the intercooler easily and be pulled out from above. [This can be done without fully removing the engine-undertrays].
4. Gently slide the rubber vacuum-hose off the metal spout on the waste-gate.
5. Remove the three screws holding the waste-gate to the turbo using a 10mm wrench. [There is just enough room down the left side of the engine to get a ring-spanner on, otherwise a ratchet with a short extension-bar may get them more easily].
6. Push a cloth or some tissue roll down under the bottom of the waste-gate between the turbo inlet and exhaust wheels to stop the retaining-clip getting lost into the engine and slide the clip off the waste-gate arm using a long flat screwdriver. [There is just enough clearance to get an angle with the screwdriver and just about see the clip. The clip will probably have to be removed with a stick-magnet].
7. Slide the waste-gate arm off the stud and remove it.
8. Refit the new waste-gate as a reversal of above, being careful not to lose the retaining-clip during refitting. The clip may need holding in position with a stick-magnet as it is pushed down with a flat screwdriver.

E60 Diesel: Replacing the Front Turbo Housing/Volute

**The turbo needs to be removed. Reaching the 8mm nuts at the back of the volute is impossible               with it in situ.

1. Mark a line on the original volute / front-casing where each 8mm screw is located before removing it. It is adjustable and the new one needs to be in the exact same place as the original for correct waste-gate location.
2. Remove the 3 screws holding the waste-gate bracket to the turbo front-casing / volute using a 10mm wrench.
3. Remove the 6 screws holding the front-casing / volute to the turbo and wiggle it free.
4. Hold the new volute up to the original and mark lines in the corresponding places. This is best done with them on a flat surface and holding a straight-edge across both.
5. Slide the new volute on to the turbo and replace the six 8mm screws, ensuring the lines are correctly located before tightening them up. It is alloy-to-steel, so no high-heat gasket-paste is required.
6. Press the waste-gate into the right position for the bracket to meet the holes on the volute and replace the three 10mm screws holding it in place.

Why I replaced mine:

With re-con turbos starting at £350, I went for a used one from a crash damaged 7-Series. Mine is an early E60 and has the vacuum-actuated turbo, so it was handy that the 7er did too as they are hard to source - eBay is full of the electronic-actuated type and I couldn't see a vacuum one, but it may be that they are inter-changeable.

The overall condition of the turbo looked worse than the one I was removing, but there is a bit less play in the spindle-shaft so worth a shot at £200 delivered, let's hope the saving pays off. The only drawback is the front-casing was slightly damaged at the point where the pipe to the intercooler fits, but swapping the original one in was not a difficult job.

E60 Diesel: Remove/Replace Turbocharger

Removing and refitting the turbo itself is not a difficult task, but the mass of other parts that need removing to access it makes this a reasonable amount of effort.

You will first need to remove:

Engine covers. [5mm Allen]

Air inlet ducting and air-filter. [5mm Allen]

Inlet manifold. [10mm + 11mm Hex]

Injector pipes. [17mm open-end wrench]

Injectors. [8mm Hex]

Rocker cover. [10mm deep-Hex]

Turbo to intercooler pipe. [10mm Hex + T30-Torx]

Airbox to turbo pipe. [5mm Allen]

EGR to exh.-manifold pipe. [T45-Torx + 7mm Hex]

Exhaust-manifold. [10mm deep-Hex + 12mm deep-Double-Hex]

Front engine-undertray. [8mm Hex]

Engine reinforcement-plate. [16mm Hex]

Exhaust vibration-damping rods. [13mm Hex]

REMOVAL:

1. Remove the two nuts holding the down-pipe/cat to the back of the turbo using a 17mm wrench and work the down-pipe back off the studs.

2. Remove the banjo-bolt that attaches the turbo oil-feed to the block using a 14mm wrench, remove that end of the oil-feed pipe and loosely screw the banjo-bolt back in a few turns to stop any oil leaking from the block. Put some cloth against the block under the pipe to catch any drips and remove and retain the 2 copper washer-seals as they are easily misplaced.

3. Reach under the turbo, locate where the lower oil-return pipe enters the rubber-hose to the sump and loosen off the upper jubilee-clip using a 6mm-Hex socket or flat screwdriver if you can get access. Let the jubilee-clip slide down the rubber hose.

4. Slide off the rubber-hose that runs to the waste-gate on the turbo.

5. Make sure the turbo's weight is supported, remove the two bolts holding the turbo-bracket to the block using a 13mm wrench and lift the turbo out, carefully sliding the lower oil-return pipe out of the rubber-hose.

FITTING:

6. **Ensure all oil-feed pipes etc. are swapped over to the new turbo**. Lower the new turbo into position, sliding the lower oil-return pipe back into the rubber-hose and loosely refit the two bolts.
7. Tighten the jubilee-clip on the oil-return hose and refit the oil-feed hose back on to the banjo-bolt, making sure the copper-washers are in place either side.
8. Place the exhaust vibration-damping rods back in place to locate the down-pipe and loosely refit the 13mm nuts.
9. Refit the neck of the down-pipe to the back of the turbo and tighten the 17mm nuts.
10. Place the exhaust-manifold over the studs on the cylinder-head and manoeuvre the turbo into a position where the bolts holding it to the manifold can be fitted. It can be trick to do while keeping the gasket aligned. Turn the three manifold-to-turbo bolts using a 12mm deep-Double-Hex (12-sided) socket until the manifold is seated, but do not fully tighten them.
11.  Lift the turbo to take the weight off the manifold and fully tighten the two bolts holding it to the block using a 13mm wrench. They are a pain to get to but it is doable, also a lot easier with someone else lifting the turbo.
12. Replace the twelve copper-nuts that hold the exhaust-manifold to the cyl.-head and tighten them using a 10mm deep 6-sided socket, as the strip easily with 12-sided ones.
13. Tighten the three bolts holding the manifold to the turbo.
14. Re-connect the rubber vacuum-hose to the waste-gate.
15. Refit the other things on the above list.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-replace-Turbocharger-on-BMW-30L-Diesel-E60E/

E21 316: Recaro seat fitting, 1st attempt...