BMW Common Engine/VVT Error Codes / Fault Codes List 2A01-2CFF [E46, E39 etc.]

2711-273F, 2740-2772, 2773-279F, 27A0-27FF, 280A-29FF, 2A01-2CFF, 2D00-2FB7, CD87-CDAC,

2A01 secondary air injection control valve
2A02 Control air system valve
2A03 secondary air pump relay
2A05 Secondary air valve bank2
2A0E AGR valve
2A12 magnetic valve DMTL control
2A13 Control DMTL pump motor
2A14 DM-TL Fine leak
2A15 tank-ventilation-system major leak
2A16 DM-TL 0.5mm leak MIL off
2A17 DM-TL module
2A18 Control DMTL heater
2A19 Tank ventilation valve
2A1A Tank-ventilation functional check
2A1D Tank leakage monitoring
2A1E Leackage diagnostic pump
2A58 VVT-Enable control
2A59 VVT-leading sensor
2A5A VVT-leading sensor bank2
2A5B VVT-ref. sensor
2A5C VVT-ref. sensor (bank2)
2A5D VVT-Sensor plausibility
2A5E VVT-Sensor plausibility (bank2)
2A5F VVT-Supply volatge for the sensor
2A60 VVT-Supply volatge for the sensor
(bank2)
2A61 VVT-Teaching function at stop
2A62 VVT-Teaching function at stop (bank2)
2A63 VVT-Actuator monitoring
2A64 VVT-Actuator monitoring (Bank2)
2A65 VVT-Control unit internal failure
2A66 VVT-Control unit internal failure (bank2)
2A67 VVT-activation
2A68 VVT-Output-stage (bank2
2A69 VVT-Power supply
2A6A VVT-Power supply (bank2)
2A6B Power supply limit VVT-emergency
2A6C VVT-stops leaning necessary
2A6D VVT-system overload
2A6E VVT-system overload bank2
2A6F multip. min lift adaption stop
2A70 error current plausibility
2A71 output stage diagnostics of discharge relay
VVT
2A72 Actuator control VVT throw adjustment
2A80 injector-VANOS
2A81 Control inlet-VANOS bank2
2A83 camshaft control- Input
2A85 outlet-VANOS
2A86 Control outlet-VANOS bank2
2A88 camshaft control outlet
2A89 camshaft control outlet-VANOS bank2
2B5C Crankshaft sensor
2B5D Ref. marking generator
26
2B61 Assign. camshaft to crankshaft
2B62 camshaft sensor inlet
2B63 camshaft sensor outlet
2B64 camshaft sensor inlet bank2
2B65 camshaft sensor outlet bank2
2B66 Master camshaft sensor
2B70 DISA
2B71 Failure DISA
2B72 DISA temp. warn level engine protection
model
2B7F Diagnose DK/HFM adjustment
2B80 idle running controling
2B8A Knock sensor zero test
2B8B Knock sensor offset
2B8C Knock regulation Test impulse
2B8D Knock sensor zero test bank2
2B8E Knock control offset bank2
2B8F Knock control test signal bank2
2B98 plausibility monitoring of the RAM backup
2B99 RAM Backup
2B9A ECU self-test RAM
2B9B ECU self-test ROM
2B9C ECU self-test Reset
2B9D overvoltage detection on VCC
2B9E Energy saving mode active
2BA7 torque restrictor level 1
2BB6 Control main relay
2C24 interchanged O2-sensors
2C37 heater link at signal-path
2C38 heater link at signal-path bank2
2C39 LSU dynamic too slow
2C3A LSU dynamic too slow bank2
2C3B voltage-monitoring O2-sensor on air
2C3C voltage-monitoring O2-sensor on air
bank2
2C45 lambda sensor in front of cat
2C46 Lambda sensor of front cat bank2
2C47 short circuit to minus or to plus at
sensor-line
2C48 short circuit to minus or to plus at
sensor-line bank2
2C49 plausibility diagnostics LSU by LSH after
catalyst
2C4A plausibility diagnostics LSU by LSH after
catalyst bank2
2C4B internal diagnostics CJ125 SPI
communication
2C4C internal diagnostics CJ125 SPI
communication bank2
2C4D power break at pump-current
2C4E power break at pump-current bank2
2C4F LSU adjustment line
2C50 LSU adjustment line bank2
2C51 LSU Nernst cell break
2C52 LSU Nernst cell break bank2
2C53 LSU virtual mass break
2C54 LSU virtual mass break bank2
2C55 Lambda sensor periode duration ageing
2C56 Lambda sensor ageing TV
2C6A inverted lambda sensors of front cat
2C6D Lambda sensor aging of rear cat bank1
2C6E Lambda sensor aging of rear cat bank2
2C6F lambda sensor aging of rear cat (VL- test)
2C70 aging of O2-sensor behind catalyst (Bank
2)
2C71 lambda sensor in rear of cat
2C72 Lambda sensor of rear cat bank2
2C9C output heater O2-sensor before catalyst
2C9D output heater O2-sensor before catalyst
bank2
2C9E Control heater sensor after cat
2C9F Control heater sensor after cat (bank2)
2CA0 lambda sensor heating in front of cat
2CA1 Oxygen sensor heater before cat. (bank2)
2CA2 heating lambda sensor of front cat
(shearing stress)
2CA3 heating lambda sensor of front cat
(shearing stress) Bank2
2CA8 Oxygen sensor heater after cat.
2CA9 Oxygen sensor heater after cat. (bank2)
2CEF DK-actuator
2CF0 DK-Actuator regulator area
2CF1 DK position monitoring
2CF8 DK-poti sensor
2CF9 Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
2CFA Throttle-valve potentiometer 2
2CFF DK-Controller failure booster

E60 Diesel: Replace Turbo Waste-Gate [Actuator]

This is a pretty easy job and can be done with removing the turbo, exhaust-manifold or rocker cover.

1. Remove the inlet duct to the air-filter housing. It's held by a T30-Torx screw at the front and just unclips from the housing.
2. Remove the boost-pipe from the top of the turbo by removing the screw from the left side of where it joins to the turbo using a 10mm wrench, then loosening the right hand screw using a T30-Torx socket and rotating the collar clockwise until it can be pulled out of the turbo.
3. Remove the other end of the boost-pipe from the left side of the intercooler by reaching from underneath with a flathead screwdriver and sliding the metal clip down. The pipe should pop the intercooler easily and be pulled out from above. [This can be done without fully removing the engine-undertrays].
4. Gently slide the rubber vacuum-hose off the metal spout on the waste-gate.
5. Remove the three screws holding the waste-gate to the turbo using a 10mm wrench. [There is just enough room down the left side of the engine to get a ring-spanner on, otherwise a ratchet with a short extension-bar may get them more easily].
6. Push a cloth or some tissue roll down under the bottom of the waste-gate between the turbo inlet and exhaust wheels to stop the retaining-clip getting lost into the engine and slide the clip off the waste-gate arm using a long flat screwdriver. [There is just enough clearance to get an angle with the screwdriver and just about see the clip. The clip will probably have to be removed with a stick-magnet].
7. Slide the waste-gate arm off the stud and remove it.
8. Refit the new waste-gate as a reversal of above, being careful not to lose the retaining-clip during refitting. The clip may need holding in position with a stick-magnet as it is pushed down with a flat screwdriver.

E60: Update + New Turbo!

Right, now the E60 is back on the road and all legit it's time I fine fettled the engine-vacuum and rattling exhaust issues left from the engine swap. The exhaust needs realigning at the back of the turbo so it doesn't contact the bracket and the vibration-dampers can be set correctly. The only way to do this is to first remove the rocker-cover and injectors and after my injector-seal problems with the new engine I haven't been able to justify doing that unless it's really essential and that time is now.
The culmination of all my messing around with the vacuum-lines [from this post] is a partly-boosting turbo that sounds like a police-siren. From the word go I was told this is the key sign of a broken turbo, but just couldn't believe it as the turbo seemed to be working ok after the initial engine rebuild (or was it?!) and the other vacuum niggles gave me false hope that it could be a cheap, easy fix. I should have learned by now that this is never the case and have now come to the conclusion of a glaringly obvious broken turbo. I guess that swirl-flap destroyed every part of the motor that it passed through, so lets hope and pray, seriously, that I don't have catalytic-converter issues in future.

So here is my replacement turbo. It's from an E65 730d and was the only used turbo I could find that fits my 'vacuum-actuated' setup, rather than the later and far more common 'electronic-actutor' type. I got it for the spiffing price of just £200, including delivery, but alas there is another catch - the front casing is dented at the outlet-port to the intercooler and the alloy has cracked, maybe during transit, but probably in the crash that wrote-off the 7-Series. This isn't a major setback though, as the front casing just bolts on and is a dry fit, so should not be much drama to swap the cleaner casing from my turbo onto this one. It also plays no part in the functionality of the blower, so if the mechanism works then it works. I'm no turbo expert but there is less play in the spindle than my current blower so if it cures the problem it will have definitely been worth the extra effort for the knock-down price.

E60: Split Vac-line, some boost, weird noises.

The turbo whine and lack of boost has persisted, so I took off the inlet-manifold again to check the vacuum-lines and found one has snapped off. Luckily, there was plenty of hose left to cut it down and push it back onto the T-piece. I re-checked every line twice against the diagrams on RealOEM.com and refitted the manifold, making sure the seals were super flush. Now when I fired up the turbo started making a ridiculous whoosh and dump-valve style hiss, as in the vid below. Some boost had returned too, though not as much as there should be and certainly nothing like the turbo sounded. Still, the vac-line repair did get a result, so it looks there could be life in the turbo yet.

There was nothing else I could do other than pore over the vac-line configuration, so I made this quick one-piece diagram to show the route of the four coming off the servo-pipe to save switching between several diagrams on RealOEM. I then started pulling vac-lines off in order to find the faulty area and, amazingly, managed to get rid of the whoosh/hiss and still have some boost. The turbo is still whistling though and there is not enough pull as you get over 2k rpm, so something is still amiss.

• Split vac-line to swirl-flaps - Low boost, quiet turbo-whistle higher up.
• Repaired vac-line - Some boost low down, cuts out higher up. Loud whoosh and hiss noise, turbo-whistle constantly.
• Vac-hose removed from wastegate - Low boost, quiet turbo-whistle higher up.
• Swirl-flaps and engine-mount vac-lines switched round - Some boost, no whoosh/hiss, constant turbo whistle, less engine vibration.

The diagrams do not make clear the route of the red/black striped hose on the right of mine. This turned out to be the N/S engine-mount and another scan of RealOEM.com revealed how they work in the pic below. I had wondered about a problem with the engine-mounts anyway, as there seems to be a lot more engine vibration than before, especially on tickover, so my next job will be to find the pipes that link the mounts together and check their condition. They all run through the subframe next to the steering-rack. M57N is a complicated vacuum arrangement.

E46: New secondary air-pump - one last bash...

Thought I would have one ultimate stab at the E46 as it is such a nice car to drive and only let down by shabby bodywork, which I can do something about, and the super low idling problem, which apparently I can't.

I refitted the Vanos-actuator and checked for anything I'd disturbed under the inlet manifold, finding a loose wire connector which I clicked back in, though the CCV was all plumbed up fine. A replacement secondary air-pump and its hose / filter was £30 and the only thing now missing from the inlet arrangement. It took no time to fit, just two 13mm bolts holding it on and swapping the hoses over, but has still, alas, made no difference.

I've spent nearly £300 on parts to cure this engine of its fault, but nothing has done the trick so I guess I will have to call it a day and scrap her after all. Again a shame, as it has 9 months MOT and 4 months tax left on it. The running gear is sound, I sorted the brakes and the engine runs fine when underway, pulling well in all gears over 1500rpm. Handling is as sweet as any E46. The interior and exterior are in terrible nick, but thats nothing that couldn't be sorted with a day or two spent on it. That's only worth doing if the car is useable however, and it sadly isn't.

On top of the impossible low-idling, the handbrake-shoes have collapsed in some way and stick on completely in reverse with the handbrake off. This is probably from being used so much to stop the car while my right foot was still keeping the revs up, but is extra work regardless. A large M12 bolt holding one of the front shock-absorber struts broke while I was attempting to fit the coilovers months ago. I've been driving on it and the strut hasn't moved at all, but it too will need replacing at some point and removing the stud will be interesting. Inside the car, the fan for the heater/blower doesn't work and the driver's door card is missing, meaning no speaker or door handle. Exiting the car with dignity can only be done by lowering the window and reaching out for the other handle, but all these foibles I rather liked. Using it every day was a nightmare though and, with the 5-Series engine swap underway I just won't have the time and money to restore it, so I'm hoping I can get the £200 I paid for it back from a breaker. That means I'm down about £300 on the whole deal. I could make the £500 back and probably more by breaking the car, but I could really do with it out of the way quickly now so a loss it may have to be.