E30 318i M40: Camshaft and valve condition

I whipped the rocker cover off to check if there was a dropped valve or broken spring that might be contributing to the poorly idle, but no such defect found. In fact, this has to be one of the cleanest top ends I have ever seen. Nice!

BMW M40 Engine - how to check timing, where the marks are located

This must be one of the hardest bits of info to find in the whole world of BMW, but there is a great post on BMW Werks on how to do it [https://www.bimmerwerkz.com/threads/m40-motor-timing-info.59059/].

QUICK TIMING CHECK GUIDE:

** Only if crank pulley has NOT been separated from crankshaft! **

1. Remove the distributor / timing cover at the front of the engine.

2. Check the timing mark on the crank pulley. This is an arrow cast into the block which should line up with the sprocket tooth to the right of the gap in the teeth, as in pic below.

3. Check the timing mark on the camshaft pulley. This is a notch/line mark in the pulley and should line up with the right-angle notch in the cylinder head, as in pic below. If this looks good, your timing is fine.

Thanks again to xdrian on BMW Works for making these pics and sharing this secret!

F10 530d: Clutch Replacement [Manual 520d, 530d, 535d, F10, F11]

The clutch on my F10 has felt like it's on the way out for about a year now and over the last month or two I've noticed it starting to slip a few times, mainly when moving off in first gear with the car pointing uphill. Time to throw a new clutch in, one of my least favourite jobs and just as with everything on the 5 Series, way more involved a process than swapping a clutch into a Ford Focus. Even I was tempted to just leave the F10 with someone to do the clutch for me, but with quotes in the £1000 - £1500 range I figured it was better to bite the bullet and do it on the drive. Just as well too, as you can see from the pics to the right just how far gone the clutch was, with hardly any face left on the friction-plate and some lovely hot spots on the pressure-plate! Nice.

I'd love to say this job is the same as the E39/E60, which are pretty straight forward, but it is trickier due to updates in the car's design. The main difference is in the prop-shaft removal, the F10 requiring the rear gearbox-mount to be removed to access the bolts to the coupling. This makes it almost impossible to move the car to rotate the prop and access the top bolts, so a bit more ingenuity is needed. I also notice that the gearbox must be lowered in order to remove the slave-clyinder, which is wedged up in the trans-tunnel, something that was not necessary on the E39 and E60. The hose to the slave-cylinder also needs to be unplugged and fluid drained so the gearbox can be lowered. This is an added annoyance that BMW have engineered in here.

** Before you undertake this job yourself, it should be understood that 5-ers are complicated cars and a lot needs to be removed before the gearbox / clutch can be accessed. This is a short list...

• Main under-tray and both side trays.
• Exhaust.
• Two heat-shields.
• Brackets.
• Rear gearbox mount and bracket on back of gearbox.
• Propshaft coupling and centre-bearing.
• Starter-motor.
• Hose to slave-cylinder. [inc. refilling and bleeding of clutch].
• Only now can you remove the gearbox and swap the clutch...

But hey, if you have made it to this guide then chances are you aren't fazed by this kind of thing! So read on... the whole job can be done at home over a weekend by yourself, taking your time and enjoying yourself... or could be done in one day by two of you...

PROCESS:

** Disconnect the battery negative-terminal and put it safely out of the way. **

1. Remove the front belly-pan under-tray located below the engine and gearbox. It is held in place by 8mm screws all around the edges and a couple in the middle.

2. Remove the left and right middle under-trays. These are located under the sill on each side and held on by a lot of 8mm screws and some plastic clips.

3. Remove the centre cross-brace by undoing the eight 13mm bolts, four on each side. This is a steel plate that runs across from left-to-right near the back of the prop-shaft.

4. Remove the exhaust up to the down-pipe. First loosen the 16mm nut on the flange connecting it to the down-pipe at the front. There are then two rubber-hangers, one next to the rear-axle and one to the front of the back-box. A third rubber-hanger is located to the front of the exhaust, not far back from the down-pipe and this can be separated on its bracket by removing the two screws using an E10 double-hex (female-torx) socket. Finally there is a 13mm nut holding a bracket at the very back, up inside the rear-bumper. The exhaust can now be carefully lowered [watching the rubber-bush that has no purpose on the right of the back-box does not get caught in the bumper], worked free of the flange on the down-pipe and fully removed. If the car is high-up on a lift then you will likely need a second person for the last bit.

5. Remove the main heat-shield located above the exhaust. It is held on by several large, flat metal nuts that can be loosened with a 10mm wrench and then spun off by hand.

6. Remove the aluminium bracket that sits around the centre-bearing of the prop-shaft by undoing the two 8mm bolts holding it to the bearing and wiggling it free.

7a. Place a jack or suitable stand under the gearbox to support it so the rear mount can be removed. 

7b. Remove the rear gearbox mount by undoing the three 13mm bolts on each side holding it to the car and a single 13mm nut in the centre that holds it to the rubber-mount on the gearbox.

8a. Remove the braided electrical-earth strap at the back of the gearbox by undoing the 13mm nut attaching it to the body.

8b. Remove the bracket at the back of the gearbox that attaches it to the rear mount, by undoing the four bolts using a T55 Torx socket. Make sure the socket has good purchase here, as it can slip out easily and round the edges of the bolt-head.

9. Remove the 3 bolts holding the prop-shaft coupling (donut) to the back of the gearbox using an 18mm wrench on either side of the nut/bolt. The bolts on the upper side of the prop-coupling are difficult to get to up in the trans-tunnel. If the rear wheels are not lifted and the prop cannot be turned to get to the bolts, it is possible to get them with CV-joint type sockets as I did.

10. Undo the bracket holding the centre-bearing of the prop-shaft by removing the 13mm nut either side.

11. Uncouple the prop-shaft from the gearbox by pulling the centre-bearing down enough for the locating pin on the gearbox to be clear of the prop-coupling. The front of the prop can now be lowered and moved to the side. If you have the whole car raised on a lift, then you will need to support the front of the prop, or remove the rear coupling to the diff. and get someone else to help you lift it down.

12. Remove the live terminal from the starter-motor using a 13mm wrench and the earth-terminal using a 10mm wrench.

13. Remove the 3 screws holding the starter-motor to the engine using an E10 double-hex socket and work the starter-motor out from the gearbox.

14. Disconnect the reverse-light switch by depressing the metal wire-clip to remove the plug and unclip the wire along the gearbox.

15. Clamp the rubber-hose to the clutch slave-cylinder and disconnect the clutch-line where the slim metal tube enters the slave-cylinder. This is done by prising the metal-clip out of the connector with a small flat-screwdriver and pulling the rubber-seal out of the slave-cylinder. Don't worry too much if you cannot clamp the clutch-hose, but it will involve more bleeding later on, which is a nightmare.

16. Remove the four bolts from the lower half of the gearbox bell-housing attaching it to the sump using an E10 double-hex socket.

17. Remove the remaining 6 large bolts from the gearbox bell-housing holding it to the engine-block using an E12 double-hex socket. [As in diagram.] The 2 down each side of the bell-housing are easy enough to access, but the 2 at the top are quite tricky. There is no easy way to get them, so it might be worth feeling around the top of the gearbox with the socket only until it is on the bolt and then get the ratchet / extension bar or CV-jointed socket to them.



** CAUTION: The gearbox will now be loose and held to the engine only with the locating-pegs, so ensure it is safely supported! **

18. Gently prise the gearbox away from the engine until it is clear of the locating-pegs and held up only by the centre-spline. Rocking it side-to-side should also help here. Draw the gearbox back slowly until the centre-spline is clear of the clutch/flywheel and the gearbox can be safely lowered partially. ONLY LOWER IT ABOUT HALF WAY!

19. Disconnect the wiring-connector from the cars neutral-sensor, located at the top of the gearbox by reaching around the top while it is partially lowered and pressing in the plastic clip on the connector. Fully lowering the gearbox before disconnecting will stretch the wire and potentially snap it!

20. Fully lower the gearbox safely onto the ground.

21. The clutch is now accessible, bolted to the back of the flywheel at the back of the engine. The clutch is removed by undoing the 6 bolts around its circumference using a 6mm allen-key socket [shown in photo]. The clutch can now be prised away from the engine! Be careful the clutch does not drop at this point, so it is best to support it with one hand while loosening the final bolt.

22. Remove the release-module / bearing from the spline inside the gearbox bell-housing. The metal lever should be held in place on the opposite side to the slave-cyinder by a piece of metal-wire and after removing that it should easily pull off. [If your clutch-kit includes a new release-module that is - if you are not replacing this then leave the old one in place.]

RELAX! You are now half way through the job!

23. Clip the new bearing into the new release-module as per the clutch-kit instructions and refit it to the spline in the gearbox bell-housing, replacing the wire-clip.

24. Fit the new clutch friction-plate into the new pressure-plate and mount it to the back of the engine leaving the 6mm allen-bolts loose by a few turns so the friction-plate can be moved around inside, but will hold in position.

25. Use the correct clutch alignment-tool to centralise the clutch, or if you do not have one look directly into the centre bore of the clutch and centralise the friction-plate by hand. It does not have to be perfectly in the centre, so you can get it accurate within about 0.5mm by eye.

26. Fully tighten the 6mm all-bolts.

27. Partially raise the gearbox to leave a few inches clearance above it and reconnect the wire to the neutral-sensor.

28. Fully raise the gearbox so it is in line with the back of the engine and move it forward, guiding the centre-spline into the clutch. Rocking the gearbox left-to-right should locate the spline into the clutch plate without too much fuss and it should then be able to rotate into position to meet the locating studs. The main problem here is the height and pitch of the gearbox on the jack / gearbox-stand, so watch out for differences in the gap at the top and bottom of the bell-housing when marrying it up.

29. Reverse steps 17 to 7. For tightening-torques refer to this post - http://www.beemerlab.org/2018/11/bmw-tightening-torques.html

30. Bleed the clutch - if you clamped the hose you shouldn't have too much trouble bleeding it, but the nipple is difficult to access and it can be easy to let air back in, so I have devoted a post to my bleeding issues here - F10: Clutch Bleeding Guide... the whole nightmare! [Manual transmission / gearbox 520d, 530d, F10, F11, G07, E90, E92 3er etc.]

31. Reverse steps 6 to 1.

E60: Engine Swap Week - Day 5

• Attempt to lift gearbox underneath car.
• Lift engine back out.
• Fit gearbox to engine.
• Remove bonnet / A/C-duct.
• Lift engine and gearbox in together [mm to spare!].
• Fit prop-shaft.
• Fit gearbox mounts.
• Fit starter-motor.
• Fit oil filter/cooler.
• Fit alternator.
• Fit PAS-pump.
• Fit A/C compressor.
• Fit thermostat.
• Re-attach lower wiring-connectors.

• Loosely fit crank-pulley.
• Loosely attach main electric-cables to alt / starter.
• Loosely fit anti roll-bar.

NOTE: remember sump wire connector + tighten 10mm screw on gearbox!

Gearbox was getting nowhere from below with so little room under the car, so the engine came back out and we lifted the gearbox on very easily.

By removing the plastic air-con duct at the back and popping the bonnet lifters off so it lifts up vertical, it is possible to just about lift the engine and gearbox in together without lowering the subframe / rack.

Just the rads and injectors now and it's pretty much ready to start.

E60: Engine Swap Week - Day 4

Had a lost day yesterday when the engine didn't arrive. It only turned up at 1.30pm today, so I will have to concentrate on swapping over the high-pressure pump, flywheel and clutch, as well as removing the loom etc. ready to patch mine in. Lifting the engine in will have to wait until tomorrow.

• Replace steering-rack / subframe bolts entirely.
• Remove loom and vacuum-hoses from new engine.
• Swap over high-pressure fuel-pump.
• Fit flywheel and clutch.
• Remove oil filter/cooler and rocker-cover for lifting.
• Match engines entirely.
• Lift engine in.

Engine arrived at 1.30pm.

And was finally sat in the bay at 7.30pm.

E60: Engine Swap Week - Day 3

• Drop prop-shaft.
• Remove slave-cyl. / gearshift linkages.
• Drop gearbox.
• Lift engine out.
• Remove parts for new engine.

Once the prop was down it didn't take long at all to get the engine out. The gearbox is huge, but surprisingly light.

Prep for new engine:

• Remove clutch.
• Remove flywheel.

Got the clutch off easy enough, but need a T55 Torx socket to remove the flywheel so that will have to wait until I get it from work tomorrow.

NOTE: Missing bolt from exhaust cross-member.

E39: Replacing the Propshaft Coupling (Donut)

This isn't too easy a job, but it's doable and with the part alone costing £119 from BMW, the savings on labour are worthwhile. Getting to the propshaft is the most involved part of the task as it's right up above the exhaust, which needs be taken off too, so if you're working at home make sure you've got ramps with at least 10" of clearance, axle-stands just won't cut it - there's a lot of work under there.

The old one, left, doesn't look too bad, but the metal rings have all separated from the rubber and have a lot of play in them.

PROCESS:

Lift the front of the car on ramps.

Removing the Exhaust:

1. Unscrew the four bolts on the two joint-brackets, located just behind the steel-braided flexible sections beneath the driver's seat, using a 13mm wrench. [Mine seized after a few turns, but I was able to get a hacksaw blade into the gap and had to cut them off and find new ones.]

2. Gently slide the flexible section of each front-pipe back about an inch until they are clear of the exhaust.

3. On the exhaust centre-bracket, remove the 2 nuts from the inner-centre of the plate using a 13mm wrench.

4. Remove the 4 bolts from the corners of the centre-bracket plate using a 13mm wrench and gently work it down until it is free of the studs on the exhaust-hangers.

5. Remove the 2 nuts from the front exhaust-bracket [with the round rubber-bushes] using a 10mm wrench, then tilt the exhaust until both the upward and downward facing studs are free of their brackets and gently lower the exhaust so it is resting on the rear hangers.

6. Lift the rear-silencer up into its recess and remove the two rubber exhaust-hangers from their hooks. [The benefit to removing these last is that the exhaust can be manipulated best to loosen the rubber-hangers, as they are mighty tough to get off.]

7. Lower the complete exhaust to the ground and gently slide it out from the rear of the car.

Removing the Heat-Shielding:

8. Remove the 2 screws holding the o/s of the large centre heat-shield and 1 nut on the n/s, using a 10mm wrench. The heat-shield should drop down easily.

9. There is a smaller heat-shield [in the pic below] to the o/s front of the transmission-tunnel that also needs removing, as it partially covers the bolts for the gearbox-suspension. There is a small 10mm nut at the rear-edge and another hidden where the shield curves down at the front. The third, larger nut at the front is connected through a solid bracket, which is a lot of work to remove and unnecessary - it's best to just bend the heat-shield out of the way or force it from underneath the bracket and make a gap in the ring so it slides back under easily.

Lowering the Propshaft and Removing the Donut:

TIS or the Workshop Manual say to remove the complete propshaft to get at the donut, but this is not necessary - the propshaft can be lowered with the diff end still attached enough to get the donut off without causing any damage so don't worry, there's no need to remove the rear UV-joint or mark any positions.

10. Remove the cross-member bracket, just to the rear of the gearbox-suspension, by unscrewing the 4 bolts with a 13mm wrench.

11. Unscrew the two large counterweight nuts from the gearbox-suspension using a 13mm wrench. The heavy cylindrical one is n/s, the shaped one o/s.

12. Support the gearbox on a jack and lift it slightly so weight is off the dampers.

13. Remove the 4 bolts from the gearbox-suspension mount using a 13mm wrench and work it free of the two studs on the rubber-dampers.

14. Remove the bracket holding the dampers by undoing the 2 nuts on the upper side of the bracket using a 13mm wrench. The nuts only need undoing a few turns and the bracket should slide off its mounts on the gearbox.

15. Remove the 6 nuts and bolts from the front end of the propshaft that connect it to the gearbox, using an 18mm wrench and spanner. [There is a chuck on the end of the propshaft that extends through the donut so there's no need to leave one bolt in to hold it up.]

16. Support the weight of the propshaft and remove the two nuts holding the centre-bearing bracket in place using a 13mm wrench and gently lower the centre of the propshaft, sliding the front end clear of the gearbox as you do so. Once the front end is free, lower the front of the propshaft to the ground so only the rear UV-joint is attached, or suspend the prop from some metal-wire if you're using full-height ramps.

17. Work the rubber-donut off from it's 3 mounting collars on the propshaft using a flathead screwdriver.

Fitting the new Donut:

18. It doesn't matter which way the donut faces, but 3 of the 6 bolt-holes on either side have extended metal collars, which fit into corresponding recesses on the propshaft and gearbox bosses, so these need lining up correctly when replacing the bolts.

19. The tightening torque for the 6 bolts is coming here, but we couldn't get an angle on our torque-wrench in the gap under the car, so we just gave them a good graunch and haven't had any vibrations.

20. Reverse steps 16 to 1.

E39 530d: Replacing the Camshaft Position Sensor [M57]

About four months after I bought the car it suddenly refused to start after having been turned off for about 20 minutes, even thought it had started fine on the short trip out. The starter motor was turning but the engine wouldn't fire. It started after about 30 minutes so I assumed it was because the car was low on fuel and the problem didn't return for a number of weeks.

When it eventually became regular I noticed that it only seemed to be when the car was left to cool for a while. The car would start fine from cold every morning or soon after being turned off, but left to cool for half an hour and the engine was dead for, at the very least, 4 or 5 hours.

Asking around on forums brought up several possible culprits - a fuel-pump, most likely the pressure-pump under the passenger seat, low fuel-pressure caused by, at the worst, a cracked injector (gulp), or an engine-position sensor on the camshaft or crank.

After a while we took a guess at it being a sensor, as the car would sometimes start after being rolled a little while in gear, which seemed to rearrange the engine and get the sensor going again. Thankfully I eventually got some diagnostics, which confirmed it was indeed the camshaft-sensor.

It was tricky to diagnose, but if you have the same symptoms then this is the first thing to look at. The replacement sensor I got from eBay wasn't too cheap either at £60, but its a brand new part and guaranteed.

Removing and refitting the sensor couldn't be easier:

1. Remove the beige centre-section of the engine cover by first undoing the single bolt to the rear with an M4 allen-key and then pulling it up towards the front until it comes away from the stud at the front.

2. Unplug the camshaft-sensor by pressing the latch of the clip inwards and sliding the wire-connector off the sensor.

3. Remove the single screw securing the sensor in place using a T10 torx-head wrench.

4. Gently twist and pull the sensor clear of its base on the cylinder-head.

5. Insert the new sensor into the cylinder-head, remembering to replace the old rubber O-ring if it doesn't have a new one fitted, and make sure it is well seated before replacing the torx-head screw.

6. Reverse steps 2 and 1.