Showing posts with label INPA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label INPA. Show all posts

Monday, 15 April 2019

F10: Halogen Headlight Module Issues - when it's not the bulb... [TMS, FRM]

OK, a lot of F10 owners seem to have various problems with headlights not working properly and it is usually due to one of the light-modules. Gone are there days of simply replacing a bulb and you're away. The F10 has several modules for everything, all linked into the master CAS computer [Car Access System] and, where they may make for accurate diagnosis and a slick system when everything is working as it should do, they sure are a confusing nightmare when something goes wrong!

There are a zillion forum threads out there detailing problems with certain light-modules and the methods used to fix / replace / re-program them, ranging from serious in-depth coding discussion to a 'For Dummies' type guide on where to start when attempting this at home. Still, none of them seem to properly discuss what the modules are, what they do and where to look when you think (or someone tells you!) that they are at fault, so the purpose of this guide is to explain just that. Even when an error-code points at a faulty module (and there are so many light-module related fault-codes that they often do!), it may still just be a break in the wiring or a bad earth, so now you won't be baffled at the complexity of your BMWs lighting network the next time you replace a bulb, check the fuse and you're light still won't turn on.

How the F10 Lighting System works:

Unlike other modern cars, most if not all Fxx Series BMWs have a computer-module housed in each light-unit. These are called TMS modules and their job is to receive on/off commands from the car and regulate power to each bulb in the light-unit. In the headlights they also work as ballast for the halogen / xenon bulbs and control the auto-levelling function. The TMS modules all connect to a larger module known as the FRM, mounted inside the car's dashboard (usually in the driver's footwell), which controls all the various lights in the vehicle. Not just the exterior lights, but every single interior and courtesy light is connected separately to the FRM. All of the switch-gear is connected directly to the FRM module, even the ones mounted next to the map-reading lights that they operate and, when pressed, rely on the FRM to send power back to the bulb. In turn, the FRM reports to the central-CAS that all is OK, or reports a fault and sends up a message on the iDrive. The FRM module is not solid-state electronics either... it runs software. When the FRM receives a command to say, turn on the lower courtesy light in the rear passenger side door, the FRM scans the car for lights matching that code, finds it and sends power accordingly. When lights are swapped out for parts with a different FRM-code then the module won't find what it's looking for and can't turn the light on. This is where FRM coding and programming comes in - amending the light-codes in the module to match those of your new lights.



Troubleshooting:

Obviously the bulb and fuse are OK, so where to look first if the light still won't turn on and the error message is still displayed? Before you get into the serious stuff, check for a physical fault first - this is most likely to be the culprit.

Breaks in Wire - If only one light is affected, say the N/S high-beam and all other lights work fine, then chances are there is a physical problem with the wiring. If modules are failing then noticeable faults should be more sporadic than a single light not turning on. An FRM-xxx fault-code will likely show up along with 'Left High-Beam Failure'. This is because the FRM cannot find the bulb in question or senses a short-circuit, but doesn't mean the FRM itself is faulty. The FRM-module scans constantly and will quickly find the bulb and cancel the error-message once a physical fault has been sorted, so ignore the FRM part of the fault-code and check the wiring first.
Common places where wire-breaks occur are inside the headlight unit itself, particularly where the car has been in a front impact of some sort, and to the right of the driver's (O/S) footwell. All the wiring for the switches and the FRM module dwell here and it is easy to knock them, especially if trim has been removed for other work. The wiring connector plugs can also get knocked and throw up FRM errors, so check all 5 are seated in the module.



TMS Module Failures:

  • Side-light / Angel Eye failure.
  • Halogen headlight bulb failure.
  • TMS-xxx fault-codes.

The TMS-module is fitted into the back of each headlight unit with two T20 screws and requires removal of the headlight to remove and replace it. To do this you will need to remove the front bumper, a guide for which is here. The most common cause of TMS failure is moisture getting into the sealed headlight - the circuitry is very sensitive to moisture and this will fry the entire module. A new spurious module can be bought from eBay for as little as £40 - they come with plenty of warranty and lots of happy customers so I would recommend this route. If genuine parts is your thing, then expect to pay ~£350(!) per module from BMW, or used items starting at £50. New modules are self-learning, making them 'plug-and-play' for a straight swap, but if pre-used items have been installed to a slightly different light unit then they may need re-coding to get working right. In my opinion, spurious parts are a winner for solid-state modules and for the price difference who's complaining.




FRM Module Failures:
  • Random front / rear lighting issues - e.g brake-lights stop working, indictors stop working, all lights work sporadically.
  • Front/rear driving-lights only stay on for about 30-seconds then dim and do not come back on.
  • Random exterior lights flashing on/off when headlights or ignition operated.
  • One or more light related error messages, but lights still work.
  • FRM-xxx fault-codes.
The FRM-module is a silver box located in the driver's-side footwell to the right of the pedals (on a right-hand-drive car.) It only requires removal of the plastic trim under the dash and at the front of the driver's door frame to replace and is held in by two 10mm nuts. Be careful though, wiring harnesses from lights/switch connect to both sides of the module, with the rearward facing ones quite hard to see, so make sure all 5 are fully removed before yanking the module. Spurious lighting modules are hard to find and will come blank, so require a full set of codes to be programmed matching your vehicle for them to work. Used genuine parts are your friend here, with FRM-modules ranging from £60-100 on eBay. All FRM-modules are interchangeable, even different part numbers, but you need to find one with the correct FRM version for your car. With most modern Fxx Series it will be running the FRM-3 software, so check it already this version. If not you can completely re-install the FRM software for your car, but you will need a copy of the software and coding become very involved. If you find a matching part for your car, chances are it had the same lighting array so will operate the lights correctly without coding, but if the car your module came from had a slightly different level of trim, or there had been an update to light configurations, then some lights will have a different code and you will need to check which ones are not functioning properly and amend the code stored in the FRM to suit those units. This is also true if standard lights are being upgraded to M-Sport variants, which will have a different code. Replacing the FRM, or any higher level module on your BMW should be programmed in some way, even if it is just to update the VIN-number stored on it to match your vehicle, so everything works 100% with the CAS and no errors are randomly thrown up in the future, though if you do get lucky and it works with all your lights then there is no reason it won't do so forever.



Coding / Programming the FRM Module:

This is the daunting part for most people experiencing FRM-module problems or upgrading light-units. First of all you will need to be quite computer savvy. It really helps to know your way around Windows as setting up the software and getting it talking to the car will be a very steep learning curve for those who are not handy with their operating system. There is so much to write about BMW coding that I could do a multitude of posts covering it, so I will stick to what is needed for this task, though if you are getting seriously into it then check out the forums on
Apart from an OBD-ENET cable, there is software you will need including INPA, NCS Expert and Progman. These are available in a great package in this post - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/03/bmw-inpa-506-for-fxx-series-enet-cable.html
If you have fitted a new or uprated light unit, then amendments will need to be made to the FRM coding. This isn't too daunting once you have accessed the list of lights stored to the FRM, as all the data is already there and only the code for lights that differ from original need to be altered. If it is a new FRM-module you need to code in, this is about the most difficult lighting related bit of programming and involves coding the car's VIN-number to the new module, then listing the code to every light in your car one by one. Even so, once the FRM has been accessed using NCS Expert successfully, the actual coding part isn't too bad if you have the patience.

The forum threads I found essential are below:

BMWcoders.com - every subtle coding nuance is detailed on there, including lots on FRM.

For most of the tasks involved in repairing / recoding / installing a new FRM module see this guide - Coding in a new FRM Module for Dummies [https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184199]

Another great thread that covers individual light failures in the FRM, resetting short-circuit counters and forcing individual lights to come on is here - Resetting Short Circuit Counters in FRM Module [https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=866044]

A list of FRM Lamp IDs can be found in this post - BMW Fxx Series FRM Lamp ID Codes List

Front Bumper / Headlight Removal Guide


https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/130693-headlights-problem/

Saturday, 13 April 2019

BMW FRM Lamp ID Codes List [Fxx Series, E92]

List of some FRM codes for vehicle lighting, used when coding / reprogramming FRM module. I will add more ID codes / alterations as I find out.

0x00 High Beam, Left or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x01 High Beam, Right or E92/3 Cornering Light
0x02 Low Beam, Left
0x03 Low Beam, Right
0x04 Parking Light, Left
0x05 Parking Light, Right
0x06 Fog Light, Left, Front
0x07 Fog Light, Right, Front
0x08 Turn Signal, Left, Front
0x09 Turn Signal, Right, Front
0x0A Turn Signal, Left, Rear
0x0B Turn Signal, Right, Rear
0x0C Unassigned 1
0x0D Lighting WBL Button?
0x0E Brake Light, Left
0x0F Brake Light, Right
0x10 Brake Light, Center
0x11 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x12 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 1 or E92/3 Daytime Running Light
0x13 Taillight/Brake Light, Left 2
0x14 Taillight/Brake Light, Right 2
0x15 Licence Plate Lighting
0x16 Interior Lighting
0x17 Fog Light, Left, Rear
0x18 Fog Light, Right, Rear
0x19 Reverse Light, Left
0x1A Reverse Light, Right
0x1B Brake Force Display, Left
0x1C Brake Force Display, Right
0x1D Clamp 58g
0x1E LED Driving Lights Control
0x1F LED Front Field Illumination
0xFF Unknown Lamp


See this post for more information about the FRM module and how to program it - http://www.beemerlab.org/2019/04/f10-halogen-headlight-module-issues.html

Saturday, 16 March 2019

BMW INPA 5.06 for Fxx Series / ENET Cable / Coding etc. - Great Guide + Download!

http://blog.obdii365.com/2017/02/09/set-up-inpa-for-bmw-f-series-coding/

This guy's blog has a great download for a fully working, easy to install / update INPA 5.06 to work with Fxx Series BMWs and ENET to OBD2 cable, so get it while the links are still active!

DOING A FRESH INSTALL:
The guide covers an 'Easy-Install' tool, so if you are doing a new install from the word go, then follow the instructions on obdii365.com and go from there. I haven't tried to confirm it is indeed easy and works, but evidently other people have.

Updating a current version of INPA:

If you already have an older version of INPA up and running, then updating to 5.06 could not be simpler, but it is not quite explained in the obdii365 guide, so follow as below. This assumes you are switching to an OBD-ENET type cable.

1. Locate your INPA and EDIABAS folders; they are in the same place. (C:\...\INPA) (C:\...\EDIABAS)
2. Copy the folder named INPA_Fxx_v.2 from the download into the same location as your existing INPA folder.
3. Rename your original INPA folder if you wish to keep it or delete the folder.
4. Rename the INPA_Fxx_v.2 folder to INPA.
5. Copy the EDIABAS folder from the download into the same location as your existing EDIABAS folder, selecting 'Yes to All' to overwrite any existing files of the same name.

That's it... your INPA will now work with Fxx Series cars. The EDIABAS.ini configuration file is already set for ENET, so just plug it into your OBD port and wait about 30 seconds for a network address to be assigned. Once you get the 'Limited or No Connectivity' message pop-up you can open INPA as normal and should see the Battery and Ignition dots filled.

USING AN OBD-USB K-CAN CABLE:
An OBD-USB K-CAN cable can be used with Fxx-Series cars, but only to read and erase fault-codes. Coding is not possible without an OBD-ENET cable.
To use the update method above and retain settings for OBD cable, make a copy of your original EDIABAS.ini configuration file and merge it into the new EDIABAS/Bin/ folder. Alternatively, re-adjust the settings for OBD after the update, which is the best option if you can be bothered.

Sunday, 11 November 2018

Modify BMW USB-OBD Cable for 2005 and Later Cars

If you have an older USB-OBD diagnostic cable that works with BMWs up to 2005 [DIS v44 etc.] then it will need modifying to use with later cars and version of DIS / INPA etc. The process it pretty easy.

1. Remove the four screws from the OBD section of the cable using a crosshead-screwdriver.

2. The case will likely be glued together, so pry it open with a flat-screwdriver and remove the circuit-board.

3. Locate pins 7 and 8 on the back of the OBD-plug itself, which you will find bridged by a blob of solder. [Usually the right-side two pins looking at the face of the board with the LED on.]


4. Use a soldering iron to melt the solder between the two pins so they are no longer linked. [A solder-sucking device is useful here, but it can be pulled off onto the soldering-iron quite easily.]


5. Re-assemble circuit-board in casing and replace screws.

The cable will now work 2005 and later BMW cars, including newer models for all diagnostics using this interface, inc. DIS v55, v57, INPA 6.4.3 etc.

The cable will no longer work with BMWs made before 2005 and DIS v44, so it might be worth getting a spare cable to de-solder. The ideal solution is to solder small wires to each pin that run off to a switch mounted in the edge of the casing. cn555ic has done a very good guide on how to do this on E90post.com - https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672940.


Sunday, 4 November 2018

DIS v57 + INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 Installation + Guide

Download Links [MediaFire]:

BMW INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 + Install Files etc. [1.1GB]

BMW DIS v57 / SSS v32 Installer Files [6.7GB]

**You will need BOTH parts to fully install DIS v57**

You will need a laptop with USB running Windows XP or Windows 7.

You will need a USB-OBD cable optimised for post-2005 BMWs. An older cable can be modified by removing the solder-bridge between OBD pins 7 and 8 - a guide is here.

GUIDE:

Unpacking Files:
  • Unpack the 2 .rar files into a new folder.
  • Where the contained instruction file mentions unpacking files from CD1 and CD2, all the .rar files for both CDs are contained in the one 6.7GB download.  
Installation:
  • If upgrading from DIS v44, install the files into the same folder and overwrite existing files.
  • The instructions cover Windows XP, but files for Windows 7 and 64-bit, along with instructions for that are provided in a folder marked OTHER.
Further installation and troubleshooting instructions [getting the virtual machine / network bridge / ports etc. working] can be found in my prior DIS v44 guide: HERE.


Tuesday, 28 July 2015

DIS v44: Diesel Injector Coding / Programming Guide

If an injector is replaced it needs coding to the ECU. Once you know what to do, injector coding is a pretty quick and easy job, all 6 can be done in about 15-20 minutes. You will need a working install of DIS and EDIABAS, so a download and setup-guide is in this post. The code is 6 or 7 digits and printed on the top of each injector, more information in this post.


** Connect a float-charger to the battery before coding with DIS ** The process takes 10-20 minutes if all goes well, but it is not worth the risk of doing adjustments to the ECU without one.

1. Connect car to DIS and perform API test.
2. Click on 'Diagnosis'.
3. Select 'Series' and 'Model series', then click the forward arrow.
4. Click on 'Yes' to start the 'Short-test', wait a few minutes for it to complete and click the forward arrow.


5. Click on 'Function Selection'. (Bottom left.)
6. Select 'Service Functions'.
7. Select 'Drive'.
8. At EGS transmission control prompt, select 'No' if your car is manual, 'Yes' if automatic, and click OK.
9. Select 'Diesel Electronics'.
10. Select 'Adjustment Programs'.
11. Select 'Injector rate adjustment' so it is highlighted in black.
12. Click on 'Test Plan'. (Bottom centre.)


13. Check 'Injector rate adjustment Bxxxx_Dxxxxxx' is highlighted and click the forward arrow.


14. Wait for the fault memory to be read and at the 'Fault codes are stored...' prompt click the forward arrow.
15. Wait for the current calibration values to come up and click the forward arrow.


16. Select '1' (Enter new calibration values) and click the forward arrow.
17. Enter the number of the injector into the keypad to be re-calibrated and click the forward arrow.
18. Enter the new injector code into the keypad with no spaces and click the forward arrow.


19. If more than one injector needs coding, select 'Yes' to the prompt and click the forward arrow, then repeat the last 2 steps for each injector number. If not, select 'No' and click the forward arrow.
20. Select '2' (Save calibration values) and click the forward arrow.
21. Check the values are correct, select 'Yes' and click the forward arrow.


22. When the new values are displayed click the forward arrow.


23. Select '3' (End) and click the forward arrow.
24. When 'End service function' is displayed click the forward arrow.
25. Shut down DIS and disconnect the car.

http://www.instructables.com/id/BMW-Diesel-Injector-Coding-with-DIS-v44/

Saturday, 25 July 2015

Working DIS v44 Installation Simple Guide + Downloads

Here is a new post with a download and brief guide for DIS v57 / SSS v32 to work with BMW models up to 2010 and a newer version of INPA working with model up to 2013 - http://www.beemerlab.org/2018/11/dis-v57-inpa-ediabas-643-installation.html

Download Links [Dropbox]:

*EDIT 7 May 2018:
OK, thank you everyone who left a comment, I am glad so many people have found this guide helpful. Due to the high volume of traffic and unreliability of the DropBox links, I have finally added the files to MediaFire and Google Drive.

NEW USERS:
This is a guide on how to install DIS using the instructions that come in the .zip files, not a detailed guide. The complete procedure to install DIS is quite complicated and has so many variations that will end up with it not working or need the whole thing installing again to change, so follow through them as per the guide below and you should get it going, as many others have. 
Read the troubleshooting section at the bottom, particularly the first part. The Windows install on some laptops simply will not work with the virtual networking needed to set DIS up and/or routing of the COM ports, yet another laptop running the same Windows version will work fine. If you find yourself unable to complete the installation or connect the hardware as shown below after a few tries,  switch to another laptop or do a fresh install of Windows.




GUIDE:

You will need:
  1. A laptop running Windows, preferably XP SP2.
  2. A USB-OBD cable (or a serial-OBD cable if your laptop has a serial port).
  3. INPA / EDIABAS.
  4. VM Ware version 5.5 or later.
  5. EasyDIS.iso and DIS_v44_programs.iso.
  6. Diag Head Emulator.

Installation procedure that worked for me: [Obviously refer to the installation guides / videos for detailed instructions.]
  1. Disable Windows Firewall and Anti Virus.
  2. Install drivers for your USB-OBD cable and USB-serial adapter, making sure it is set as port COM1.
  3. Install / update INPA / EDIABAS, using ADS interface, not OBD.
  4. Change environment path in Windows to c:/ediabas/bin.
  5. Install ADS Setup.
  6. Install OBD setup.
  7. Edit ediabas.ini, change remote-host and port.
  8. Install VM Ware [version 5.5 or higher].
  9. Edit VM Ware network bridge in network editor.
  10. Set up the new virtual machine with ethernet set to the network bridge.
  11. Install Diag Head Emulator.
  12. Install easy_DIS and the DIS programs.
  13. Load DIS, open/run Diag Head and open IFHsrv32.exe.
  14. In DIS, enter Administration > Calibrating Touch Shield, change the processes to off and make sure it passes the API test.
  15. Enter Administration > Diagnostic Head, click on the IP-address / computer-name and click the OK button.
  16. Enter Administration > Connection Setup, click on the IP-address / computer-name and click Connecting. Once connected the IP-address should appear in the bottom right and both sets of lights are lit up.
  17. Go back into Administration > Calibrating Touch Shield, set the vm process back to off and change translator to Fister.
  18. Edit ediabas.ini again, changing the interface to STD:OBD instead of ADS.
To run DIS / test connection:
  1. Connect cable to OBD socket on car and turn ignition to phase-2.
  2. Load up INPA (.ipo), check the Battery and Ignition dots are black.
  3. Close INPA, but leave EDIABAS Server running in task-bar.
  4. Start DIS and wait for it to fully load.
  5. Load up Diag Head and click run.
  6. Load up IFHsrv32.exe.
  7. Enter Administration > Calibrating Touch Shield in DIS.
  8. Perform API-test, check it passes, exit back to DIS.
  9. Click on Diagnosis and DIS should now identify your car / carry out the short-test.
Troubleshooting:
  1. If you have access to more than one laptop, try installing DIS again on one of them, rather than wasting days on a problematic install. Some just don't want to work with virtual networking, but will probably work first time on another, similar laptop. [Reformatting the HDD and doing a fresh install of Windows XP SP2 may also fix the problem on a machine that will just not play ball.]
  2. If API-test fails - Check ediabas.ini has the right remote-host and port set / check VM network settings / try out this fix by changing addresses in Unix itself [] / ensure firewall is off and re-install DIS.
  3. If API-test passes, but DIS does not communicate - Check INPA is communicating and reboot DIS / check ediabas.ini has interface set to STD:OBD / check USB-serial port is set as COM1.
  4. DIS ERROR 200.19 - Battery is below 12v, connect a float-charger / check IP address is right for Diagnostic Head in DIS, Admin / check API-test passes.
  5. INPA ERROR IFS-0009 - Ensure USB-serial port is set as COM1 / check ediabas.ini has interface set to STD:OBD / make sure cable is working and fuse 25 has not blown.

Tuesday, 7 July 2015

E60: New Engine Tune Up Part 5 - Injectors / Smooth Running Control

The car is running OK, but the lumpy idling is still annoying me. Others don't notice it and I should probably just throw the acoustic-covers back on and just enjoy the car, but the urge to investigate the smooth-running control issue [this post] was just too great and a big job has broken out yet again.

I repeated the smooth-running measurement and injector 5 was still giving zero reading, so I bought a re-conditioned one off eBay for £45. I had also noticed oil running down the centre of the rocker-cover that seemed to be leaking out from the rear injector ports, so my logic was if they were coming out for cleaning and re-seating I may as well replace no. 5 and not worry about having to do the work again if it was indeed faulty. Saturday's jobs are listed below:
  • Replaced injector 5.
  • Removed / cleaned injectors.
  • Refitted rocker-cover and injectors carefully!
  • Repaired sheathing of inj. 5 ground wire.
  • Cleaned MAP sensor.
  • Put swirl-flap actuator back on vac-line.
  • Made sure inj. leak-off hose is secure! [It popped off while working on it, lost £5 fuel at least.]

BEGINNING DIESEL INJECTOR CODING:

In the days leading up to the work above I was contacted by another user who had the same issue with the smooth-running readout. They had fitted a brand new injector to the cylinder showing zero and it had made no difference to the readout. I hoped mine would not turn out the same way and the new injector would cure the problem, but it did not. A crushing final smooth-running measurement still showed 0.0 for injector 5 and the idling remains the same. My contact feared a fried ECU / DDE and had theirs tested, but it came back with no faults. This is unlikely anyway if the car is running OK and it turned out to be a software problem with the scanner. Later using INPA on my laptop I was able to view correctional-amounts for all 6 cylinders, so no. 5 was likely never a serious problem. Better yet, the amounts shown for mg/stroke were more realistic and not 100mg out like before. Never the less, the poor idle remained.


I was now informed that if an injector had been replaced then it would need coding. Basically, every injector has a slightly different correctional-value and is given a unique code. These are stored by the ECU after assembly, which then operates each injector perfectly within the parameters set by each code. When a new injector is fitted the ECU needs to be recoded accordingly. The codes are found in the lower-left quarter of the markings on top of the injector, shown in the photos. M57NTU BMWs used Euro 3 v2 injectors in 2003 and from mid-2004 used Euro 4 injectors. These are interchangeable, even late E39 units work, but injectors made after 2007 for the later M57NTU2 do not. A great guide on BMW diesel injector codes is here - http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/zinfo/FIN0201FB47TU033.htm.

As each cylinder is coded to a specific injector the order the injectors are fitted in is critical and must remain the same. This got me wondering if that could be the cause of the lumpy tickover after all. During the whole course of the swirl-flap repair and then engine swap these same injectors have been removed from the head half a dozen times. It is possible that during nozzle-cleaning or engine-swap teething troubles that one or two may have become jumbled. The only way to know is to read the code sequence on the ECU and match them to the codes on the injectors, so I fired up the scanner and went into Injector Programming. What I found was the picture below. Only 1-4 showed up with codes and only the first one matches any of my injectors. No. 5 and 6 are blank, but only 1 and 2 can be selected to alter the code anyway, so it would seem that the scanner I am using is unsuitable for complex BMW work - it is, after all, optimised for Transit vans. I have now procured some dedicated diagnostic software and a BMCables.com blue OBD-USB cable, which will hopefully give an improved result like it did with the smooth-running readout. If the codes still don't match my injectors then they're not the originals and were never coded in anyway, putting the idle problem into a different court entirely. Only time will tell, as INPA does not work for injector-coding on diesel Beemers - for that you need DIS and it has been so hard to set up that I will have to cover it in later posts.

My current injector codes are:

1 - 7G1R6A [Euro 3 v2]
2 - ASR1CE [Euro 3 v2]
3 - 6RH1DW [Euro 3 v2]
4 - BZZNBI [Euro 3 v2]
5 - 7GZ6417 [Euro 4]
6 - B1APEI [Euro 3 v2]