E30 318i: Replacement Speedometer/ Odometer

Had to bite the bullet and buy a replacement speedo / odometer for project E30 this week as after many different attempts to fix the original one [THIS POST], I had to declare it totally junked. These are not cheap and sit around the £65-70 region, but I got a deal on one for £59... still an unwanted cost but at least I no longer have to tape an old iPhone to the dash with a speedo app!

Now the question is, do I swap in the number row from my old odometer or leave the ones in from this one, some 100k miles less.... Hmmm.

As per the pics, the areas of concern on my old speedo are not problem on the replacement, with resistors, capacitors and other components all looking mint. There is also no charring to the back of the PCB, so no sign of this unit overheating in the past and the odometer gearing is perfect. This unit has still covered 154k miles over the last 35 years, but has clearly had an easier life than the one from my E30!

Showing the healthy resistor on the newer speedo on the left and the burnt out one to the right.

BMW INPA 5.06 for Fxx Series / ENET Cable / Coding etc. - Great Guide + Download!

http://blog.obdii365.com/2017/02/09/set-up-inpa-for-bmw-f-series-coding/

This guy's blog has a great download for a fully working, easy to install / update INPA 5.06 to work with Fxx Series BMWs and ENET to OBD2 cable, so get it while the links are still active!

DOING A FRESH INSTALL:
The guide covers an 'Easy-Install' tool, so if you are doing a new install from the word go, then follow the instructions on obdii365.com and go from there. I haven't tried to confirm it is indeed easy and works, but evidently other people have.

Updating a current version of INPA:

If you already have an older version of INPA up and running, then updating to 5.06 could not be simpler, but it is not quite explained in the obdii365 guide, so follow as below. This assumes you are switching to an OBD-ENET type cable.

1. Locate your INPA and EDIABAS folders; they are in the same place. (C:\...\INPA) (C:\...\EDIABAS)
2. Copy the folder named INPA_Fxx_v.2 from the download into the same location as your existing INPA folder.
3. Rename your original INPA folder if you wish to keep it or delete the folder.
4. Rename the INPA_Fxx_v.2 folder to INPA.
5. Copy the EDIABAS folder from the download into the same location as your existing EDIABAS folder, selecting 'Yes to All' to overwrite any existing files of the same name.

That's it... your INPA will now work with Fxx Series cars. The EDIABAS.ini configuration file is already set for ENET, so just plug it into your OBD port and wait about 30 seconds for a network address to be assigned. Once you get the 'Limited or No Connectivity' message pop-up you can open INPA as normal and should see the Battery and Ignition dots filled.

USING AN OBD-USB K-CAN CABLE:
An OBD-USB K-CAN cable can be used with Fxx-Series cars, but only to read and erase fault-codes. Coding is not possible without an OBD-ENET cable.
To use the update method above and retain settings for OBD cable, make a copy of your original EDIABAS.ini configuration file and merge it into the new EDIABAS/Bin/ folder. Alternatively, re-adjust the settings for OBD after the update, which is the best option if you can be bothered.

DIS v57 + INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 Installation + Guide

Download Links [MediaFire]:

BMW INPA / EDIABAS 6.4.3 + Install Files etc. [1.1GB]

BMW DIS v57 / SSS v32 Installer Files [6.7GB]

**You will need BOTH parts to fully install DIS v57**

You will need a laptop with USB running Windows XP or Windows 7.

You will need a USB-OBD cable optimised for post-2005 BMWs. An older cable can be modified by removing the solder-bridge between OBD pins 7 and 8 - a guide is here.

GUIDE:

Unpacking Files:

• Unpack the 2 .rar files into a new folder.
• Where the contained instruction file mentions unpacking files from CD1 and CD2, all the .rar files for both CDs are contained in the one 6.7GB download.  

Installation:

• If upgrading from DIS v44, install the files into the same folder and overwrite existing files.
• The instructions cover Windows XP, but files for Windows 7 and 64-bit, along with instructions for that are provided in a folder marked OTHER.

Further installation and troubleshooting instructions [getting the virtual machine / network bridge / ports etc. working] can be found in my prior DIS v44 guide: HERE.

E60 Driver's Door: No power to windows, mirrors, remote-lock, etc. - Door Module fuse.

Symptoms:

• Driver's window switch-panel doesn't operate or illuminate buttons.
• Remote door-lock doesn't operate, but all doors operate when key is turned.
• Driver's door courtesy light does not illuminate.
• Mirror control and other door switches do not operate or illuminate.
• Speaker still works.

Cause:

FUSE 10 - 30A - [Driver's Seat Adjustment] It's the first green fuse from the left in the glove compartment fuse-box.

The fuse is labelled Driver's Seat Adjustment, but is really just power from Terminal 30, which also supplies the Driver's Door Module. This module is located inside the driver's door and metes out power to the different door components so that all operations are communicated back to the CAS [Comfort Access System]. This means that when the fuse to the door module blows, power is lost to the window, mirror, etc. switch panel, the remote door lock, basically everything except the speaker. This causes a lot of confusion as to the root of the problem, as it would be very hard to guess that the fuse for the driver's seat adjustment motors would also power a hidden module in the door that controls everything. Oh well, that's modern cars. 

There is a lot of conflicting information on forums about this. It appears that most people have the symptoms described above and not one reply mentions this fuse! Owner's have even shelled out for new door modules which have had no effect and perhaps their lack of further contribution to the thread suggest the same sheepish frustration I felt when I found the fuse. Quite a few people have foxed indy auto-electricians with this problem, who have probably been testing wires, as I did, while not knowing about the fuse.

I eventually discovered the fuse by tracing the wiring diagrams on bmw-planet.com. This is a brilliant place to access the TIS wiring-diagrams and navigate them easily. I have condensed the layout of the door module wiring in the pic below.

DIS v44: Diesel Injector Coding / Programming Guide

If an injector is replaced it needs coding to the ECU. Once you know what to do, injector coding is a pretty quick and easy job, all 6 can be done in about 15-20 minutes. You will need a working install of DIS and EDIABAS, so a download and setup-guide is in this post. The code is 6 or 7 digits and printed on the top of each injector, more information in this post.

** Connect a float-charger to the battery before coding with DIS ** The process takes 10-20 minutes if all goes well, but it is not worth the risk of doing adjustments to the ECU without one.

1. Connect car to DIS and perform API test.

2. Click on 'Diagnosis'.
3. Select 'Series' and 'Model series', then click the forward arrow.
4. Click on 'Yes' to start the 'Short-test', wait a few minutes for it to complete and click the forward arrow.

5. Click on 'Function Selection'. (Bottom left.)
6. Select 'Service Functions'.
7. Select 'Drive'.
8. At EGS transmission control prompt, select 'No' if your car is manual, 'Yes' if automatic, and click OK.
9. Select 'Diesel Electronics'.
10. Select 'Adjustment Programs'.
11. Select 'Injector rate adjustment' so it is highlighted in black.
12. Click on 'Test Plan'. (Bottom centre.)

13. Check 'Injector rate adjustment Bxxxx_Dxxxxxx' is highlighted and click the forward arrow.

14. Wait for the fault memory to be read and at the 'Fault codes are stored...' prompt click the forward arrow.
15. Wait for the current calibration values to come up and click the forward arrow.

16. Select '1' (Enter new calibration values) and click the forward arrow.
17. Enter the number of the injector into the keypad to be re-calibrated and click the forward arrow.
18. Enter the new injector code into the keypad with no spaces and click the forward arrow.

19. If more than one injector needs coding, select 'Yes' to the prompt and click the forward arrow, then repeat the last 2 steps for each injector number. If not, select 'No' and click the forward arrow.
20. Select '2' (Save calibration values) and click the forward arrow.
21. Check the values are correct, select 'Yes' and click the forward arrow.

22. When the new values are displayed click the forward arrow.

23. Select '3' (End) and click the forward arrow.
24. When 'End service function' is displayed click the forward arrow.
25. Shut down DIS and disconnect the car.

http://www.instructables.com/id/BMW-Diesel-Injector-Coding-with-DIS-v44/

Working DIS v44 Installation Simple Guide + Downloads

Here is a new post with a download and brief guide for DIS v57 / SSS v32 to work with BMW models up to 2010 and a newer version of INPA working with model up to 2013 - http://www.beemerlab.org/2018/11/dis-v57-inpa-ediabas-643-installation.html. 

Download Links [Dropbox]:

• INPA, Ediabas, NCS Expert, EA80X, etc. 619.45MB
• easyDIS, DIS Programs, Diag Head Emulator, VM Ware, etc. 1.48GB

*NEW* Download Links [MediaFire]:

• INPA, Ediabas, NCS Expert, EA80X, etc. MediaFire 619.45MB
• easyDIS, DIS Programs, Diag Head Emulator, VM Ware, etc. MediaFire 1.48GB

*EDIT 7 May 2018:
OK, thank you everyone who left a comment, I am glad so many people have found this guide helpful. Due to the high volume of traffic and unreliability of the DropBox links, I have finally added the files to MediaFire and Google Drive.

NEW USERS:
This is a guide on how to install DIS using the instructions that come in the .zip files, not a detailed guide. The complete procedure to install DIS is quite complicated and has so many variations that will end up with it not working or need the whole thing installing again to change, so follow through them as per the guide below and you should get it going, as many others have. 
Read the troubleshooting section at the bottom, particularly the first part. The Windows install on some laptops simply will not work with the virtual networking needed to set DIS up and/or routing of the COM ports, yet another laptop running the same Windows version will work fine. If you find yourself unable to complete the installation or connect the hardware as shown below after a few tries,  switch to another laptop or do a fresh install of Windows.

---

GUIDE:

You will need:

1. A laptop running Windows, preferably XP SP2.
2. A USB-OBD cable (or a serial-OBD cable if your laptop has a serial port).
3. INPA / EDIABAS.
4. VM Ware version 5.5 or later.
5. EasyDIS.iso and DIS_v44_programs.iso.
6. Diag Head Emulator.

Installation procedure that worked for me: [Obviously refer to the installation guides / videos for detailed instructions.]

1. Disable Windows Firewall and Anti Virus.
2. Install drivers for your USB-OBD cable and USB-serial adapter, making sure it is set as port COM1.
3. Install / update INPA / EDIABAS, using ADS interface, not OBD.
4. Change environment path in Windows to c:/ediabas/bin.
5. Install ADS Setup.
6. Install OBD setup.
7. Edit ediabas.ini, change remote-host and port.
8. Install VM Ware [version 5.5 or higher].
9. Edit VM Ware network bridge in network editor.
10. Set up the new virtual machine with ethernet set to the network bridge.
11. Install Diag Head Emulator.
12. Install easy_DIS and the DIS programs.
13. Load DIS, open/run Diag Head and open IFHsrv32.exe.
14. In DIS, enter Administration > Calibrating Touch Shield, change the processes to off and make sure it passes the API test.
15. Enter Administration > Diagnostic Head, click on the IP-address / computer-name and click the OK button.
16. Enter Administration > Connection Setup, click on the IP-address / computer-name and click Connecting. Once connected the IP-address should appear in the bottom right and both sets of lights are lit up.
17. Go back into Administration > Calibrating Touch Shield, set the vm process back to off and change translator to Fister.
18. Edit ediabas.ini again, changing the interface to STD:OBD instead of ADS.

To run DIS / test connection:

1. Connect cable to OBD socket on car and turn ignition to phase-2.
2. Load up INPA (.ipo), check the Battery and Ignition dots are black.
3. Close INPA, but leave EDIABAS Server running in task-bar.
4. Start DIS and wait for it to fully load.
5. Load up Diag Head and click run.
6. Load up IFHsrv32.exe.
7. Enter Administration > Calibrating Touch Shield in DIS.
8. Perform API-test, check it passes, exit back to DIS.
9. Click on Diagnosis and DIS should now identify your car / carry out the short-test.

Troubleshooting:

1. If you have access to more than one laptop, try installing DIS again on one of them, rather than wasting days on a problematic install. Some just don't want to work with virtual networking, but will probably work first time on another, similar laptop. [Reformatting the HDD and doing a fresh install of Windows XP SP2 may also fix the problem on a machine that will just not play ball.]
2. If API-test fails - Check ediabas.ini has the right remote-host and port set / check VM network settings / try out this fix by changing addresses in Unix itself [] / ensure firewall is off and re-install DIS.
3. If API-test passes, but DIS does not communicate - Check INPA is communicating and reboot DIS / check ediabas.ini has interface set to STD:OBD / check USB-serial port is set as COM1.
4. DIS ERROR 200.19 - Battery is below 12v, connect a float-charger / check IP address is right for Diagnostic Head in DIS, Admin / check API-test passes.
5. INPA ERROR IFS-0009 - Ensure USB-serial port is set as COM1 / check ediabas.ini has interface set to STD:OBD / make sure cable is working and fuse 25 has not blown.

E60: New Engine finally running!

Changed the injector seals last Sunday and gave the ports another good clean. The mist has stopped, but it still did not want to fire. There is fuel to the injectors and the timing is spot on, so this could only mean 2 things - something electronic isn't working properly, or the entire DDE module has fallen out of sync with the engine...

I don't even want to know what the latter option entails, so carried on swapping sensors on the new engine for those that worked on my old one. I found the crank-sensor was completely covered in dirty oil, in fact the whole slot was filled with it. Engine sensors are funny things and I can see how the oil could stop it from seeing the notch on the flywheel, but it doesn't explain why the engine would not turn over well using a can of Easy-Start. Either way, with the crank-sensor from my original lump in place it fired up straight away! Result.

[Video is with EGR-pipe disconnected and no air-filter / muffler fitted.]

• PAS-pump sounds like it's dying - extreme whine / groan when the wheel is turned - and is now the only thing keeping her off the road. Will try bleeding tomorrow and maybe fresh fluid, but failing that the pump could have packed in or, worse, I've damaged some of the piping / rack while lifting the engine in.
• Rear rubber exhaust-hanger missing. TIS says to remove the screws holding the hanger-bracket, not remove the rubber. I cut mine off to hastily get the exhaust down and will have to buy and annoyingly fit a new one.
• Front exhaust vibration-damper simply will not fit. When fitted to the exhaust, the eyelets on the two connecting-rods are way off the studs on the gearbox-bracket. The left-right rod is only about 5mm out, but the front-rear rod is miles off. I will have to remove the rear and centre brackets and try to relocate the exhaust a bit.

Other than that, no iDrive messages, no engine-management light, no 'Increased Emissions', no leaks, no mist and no funny noises. The gearbox and clutch are working fine and the car is desperate to be driven. Curse that power-steering fault!